Yes John - I am still using left handed drill bits and hoping they'll help break the bond and loosen it.

I've had to pack it in for the afternoon - it's too cold out there!

I'll try again tomorrow...

 

Drill an access hole in the wheelwell with a holesaw. It'd be worth it to ensure that the block doesn't get bunged up. My 2 cents.

 

You might want to look for some type of sleeve, bit of metal tubing perhaps, to protect the block and help align the drill bit.

 

You could try some heat around the stud... Either a heat gun or a propane torch. Just be extra careful with flamables (like the penatrating oil or any fuel leak or fumes). Have a fire extinguisher nearby. Try to keep heat off the stud and only on the metal surrounding it. Hopefully it will come out. If not, just go slow and steady until you can pick put the pieces. Worst case, you could use a Heli-Coil...

 

go slow man use the left hand and use the kroil or pb blaster.

Its just like drilling off broken wheel nuts. Careful, and use lots of chemicals (and keep your fire control nearby)

(oh and not too much speed and use sharp bits)

 

Dave, you can make a very effective penetrating fluid with 50/50 acetone and ATF.

 

Hi Dave I have actually done this job on you guessed it an 85 S2, I did mine on the hoist and it was the same stud broken. I used a small air driven drill and went slowly.

You also sound like a sensible and experienced chap and you will need to be to do this job. Here was my experience in a nut shell, it took a fair amount of time to drill out, I had to drill most of the stud out so that basically only the threads were left give or take 1 mm. So an accurate hole is required.

Do not use easy outs, they should be called easy breaks, I used a multi spline drive and hammered it in, got it first time round.

But and there is a big but, the engine needed maintenance, so I should have pulled the engine changed mounts, done gaskets and seals and killed many birds with the one stone, a big mistake in the end. I would have had the engine out in the time it took to get the stud out btw but then you have the time to put it back in.

Best of luck


Greg

 

Just wanted to say thanks for all the advice and tips.

The exhaust stud is changed - I ended up drilling it out and tapping another thread and then tweaking the new stud (cut it a bit shorter) so it would fit.

Done about 120 miles so far and there are no signs of leaks.

 

I love a happy ending. Good job.

 

Good job. I was waiting to hear about the broken extractor but you carefully avoided that pitfall.