Max Jax Car Lift a users review and Group buy opportunity for P-cars will close...
#63
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Rob--
Your post-tension slab has cables not rebar. Dig a little at the edges and see where the cable ends are and how big the grid spacing is between them. A little tape measure and chalkline layout work should get you the places not to drill. And FWIW, you are loking to avoid drilling into the cable because you don't want to lose the effect, Drilling into adjacent concrete is no problem.
IF-- you can get to the ends of the cables, you can use a fox-n-hound signal chaser to locate them in the slab. If they are all tied together it may be harder or may be easier, depending on how close together they are. Slab x-rays aren't cheap because they use a backscatter method rather than pass through detection.
Your post-tension slab has cables not rebar. Dig a little at the edges and see where the cable ends are and how big the grid spacing is between them. A little tape measure and chalkline layout work should get you the places not to drill. And FWIW, you are loking to avoid drilling into the cable because you don't want to lose the effect, Drilling into adjacent concrete is no problem.
IF-- you can get to the ends of the cables, you can use a fox-n-hound signal chaser to locate them in the slab. If they are all tied together it may be harder or may be easier, depending on how close together they are. Slab x-rays aren't cheap because they use a backscatter method rather than pass through detection.
#64
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The first quote for slab x-raying was approximately $600, for that kind of money I can dig around 2 corners of the garage a bit, the dog has already given me a bit of a headstart.
... So hopefully the cable layouts are in a simple grid pattern that can be inferred from the cable ends (?)
Bob, when's your install gonna happen? Count me in for an untrained but well-intentioned pair of hands. I will be a bachelor 11/20-21.
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Bob, when's your install gonna happen? Count me in for an untrained but well-intentioned pair of hands. I will be a bachelor 11/20-21.
#65
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(?) Yes.
The slab has rods or cables cast in as part of the initial place/'pour'. After the concrete has set, the ends of the cables/rods are tensioned using hydraulic jacks typically, little porta-power-like cylinders that pull on the rod as they push back on the edge of the concrete. The tension improves the strength of the slab with less concrete needed. Anyway, the ends of the rods or cables should be obvious in the edges of the slab. I hope they included the footing when they set the steel through.
The slab has rods or cables cast in as part of the initial place/'pour'. After the concrete has set, the ends of the cables/rods are tensioned using hydraulic jacks typically, little porta-power-like cylinders that pull on the rod as they push back on the edge of the concrete. The tension improves the strength of the slab with less concrete needed. Anyway, the ends of the rods or cables should be obvious in the edges of the slab. I hope they included the footing when they set the steel through.
#68
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hi,
I had one sent over to Europe. It was on an oversized pallet. Quite heavy I must say. It took removing maybe 12 M14 bolts to split up the package whicht is all bolted together with two steel frames. So no shipping damage at all. A few hours to fit everything together and then the first try without any load. Next positioning the columns, drilling the holes (damn, I hit one steel enforcement so that took me some time) and place the columns. Not too difficult.
Three points: you must place the car fairly correct in the middle. It takes some practice. If not, the lifting is somewhat uneven despite of the flow balancer. No big deal however. And second: I drilled extra holes to put the safety bars halfway since one was too high and the other too low. Last: I do not even use any extenders, the lift is perfect for me at the lowest possible lift plate height. I have a ceiling of about 7 foot. So the lift is unable to extend fully.
The lift takes about 10L of ATF. Just that you know.
If I would have to buy one again, this would be top of my list. No doubts. So good luck you all.....
regards,
Theo
I had one sent over to Europe. It was on an oversized pallet. Quite heavy I must say. It took removing maybe 12 M14 bolts to split up the package whicht is all bolted together with two steel frames. So no shipping damage at all. A few hours to fit everything together and then the first try without any load. Next positioning the columns, drilling the holes (damn, I hit one steel enforcement so that took me some time) and place the columns. Not too difficult.
Three points: you must place the car fairly correct in the middle. It takes some practice. If not, the lifting is somewhat uneven despite of the flow balancer. No big deal however. And second: I drilled extra holes to put the safety bars halfway since one was too high and the other too low. Last: I do not even use any extenders, the lift is perfect for me at the lowest possible lift plate height. I have a ceiling of about 7 foot. So the lift is unable to extend fully.
The lift takes about 10L of ATF. Just that you know.
If I would have to buy one again, this would be top of my list. No doubts. So good luck you all.....
regards,
Theo
#70
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Post a picture of the custom chair you made to work under this lift.
Best
MVG - I should be over in the first part of 2011 for a couple of weeks.
Best
MVG - I should be over in the first part of 2011 for a couple of weeks.
#72
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Dank u wel mijnheer.
Theo thanks a lot for your input and sharing your experience with the Max Jax.
We'll buy a
when we're over
Best Herman
Theo thanks a lot for your input and sharing your experience with the Max Jax.
We'll buy a
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Best Herman