dr bob

Andrew-

What did you use for column spacing?

And mine is already sucked-in, although you wouldn't know by looking....

AO

I'm not at home right now, but I believe I settled on 123" between outside edges of the base plates. I'm pretty sure outside column to outside column is 114 3/4". I know this because I measured near the bottom and at the top to make sure the columns were parallel.

dr bob

Thanks!

Herman K

One of you guys send me a PM with there info and a request if they could still get in.

For reasons unknown to me your PM got deleted and I don't have your information to forward.

So if you happen to read this you can send it to me again and I'll try for you!


Hereby another link with photo's (see post #7) from a 911 owner.

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...able-lift.html

dr bob

Updating:

I --FINALLY-- invested the afternoon with the tape measure and the rotary hammer, and set a bunch of anchors for the lift. Dannmar/GES supplied an extra set of anchors for a fair price, so I put extras in to allow different spacing between the posts. On one side, I set three extra anchors behind the original tight position, for a bit over 5" of extra spacing available. On the other side, I set 6 additional anchors to allow up to 11" of additional space. On the widest setting, 134" between outside edges of the base plates, both doors can be opened completely with the car up on the lift. There's very limited pass-around space on one side with the columns that far apart, but at the same time I don't anticipate using the widest spacing as much.

I had no issues with setting the anchors, except where I had to use a rebar cutter to get through the steel on a few of the anchors. There's a bit over $100 invested in bits, mostly because I over-engineered the reinforcement on the floor a bit when it was placed. Still easily worth the extra strength and security when mrs dr bob's second-favorite hubby is working under the raised car.

For grins, I grabbed a couple bungee corts and a piece of poly rope, and amde a simple centering guide. The outsides of the mirrors are 80" apart, so the rope is 80" between the ends of a couple loops tied into the rope. Bungees make up the difference between the rope length and the column spacing. There are a couple short cords to tennis ***** hanging at mirror height from the ends of the rope. No matter what columns spacing I use, the ***** always match the centered position of the car both left/right and fore/aft when the mirrors just touch the tennis *****. I may go with a single ball in the middle at the windshiled mirror mount; the ***** at the outer ends risk getting caught in the door if I'm not careful.

I'll add pictures when I do the first actual work that involves raising the car.


Next improvements are new cabinet doors for the garage, and strip the epoxy floor to place porcelain tile out there. The roller jack and stands just decimated the epoxy, and would be a serious risk on tile. With the lift, that shouldn't be an issue, and tile can now safely go in there. Tile will also take care of some other floor issues, so it will be a win-win when it's done. I will use epoxy grout on the tile so no staining, though. Should be as nice as many folks' family rooms if all goes well.


Thanks go out again to Herman K for coalescing all the buyers and getting the good deal lined up for the group. I probably would have procrastinated for another year or two if he hadn't done the legwork on this.

Herman K

Dr. Bob


Looking forward to some of your pictures as usual you are raising the bar higher than most folks out here but in this case its tennis *****. I haven’t had the time yet to drill the holes and place the unit perhaps over the holidays so your pictures may come in handy.

Enjoy and happy holidays

dr bob

I'll put together a diagram of the holes/spacing that I like, and see if that helps. The actual drilling went pretty fast with the right tools. The rotary hammer sails through the concrete pretty fast. The rebar cutter is a little slower, but you only need to use one if you have bigger steel reinforcing. The typical mat/mesh is barely noticeable with the rotary hammer and the standard carbide bit.

It took me a few inserts to get the setting technique worked out, but then things went much faster. The Wed-Jit directions tell you to set the anchor 5/8" below the surface. So tap the anchor in with their "setting tool" (a 4" bolt) and the nut with washers turned to there's 5/8" space between the botto washer and the end of the insert. The Wed-Jit instructions included with the lift show this. I added a few extra washers so they wouldn't 'cup' into the hole and damage the concrete, but that doesn't affect the way you initially set the anchor in the hole. Once the anchor is in the hole the right depth, unscrew the nut and add a little grease to the area of the threads between the nut and the concrete, to make turning the nut a LOT easier. Then turn the nut back down snug with the washers stack. Hold the head of the bolt with a wrench, and tighten the nut 4 complete turns to set the anchor hard in the hole. The 4-turn instruction is also in the Wed-Jit instruction. In spite of what Max-Jax says, the four turns is not enough to pull the anchor up flush with the surface of the concrete. Mine ended up maybe 1/4" below the surface. The last half a turn or so is pretty stiff pulling with the wrench, by the way. Blow all the dust and junk out of the anchor and you are good to go.

I settled on 80 lbs/ft as a good tightening torque on the bolts into the anchors to hold the lift down. Instructions suggest 3 to 3-3/4 turns for this, but I'm better at waiting for the torque wrench to click than I am at counting turns with a socket and ratchet every time.

The hose ends went on with teflon tape just fine. The adapters and fittings on the cylinders and pump/flow divider are tightened to an arbitrary 30 lbs/ft on mine. Best SWAG value considering the size of the fittting and all. No leaks, always a good sign

The bleeding went smoothly per the instructions, but... Be aware that the quick-disconnects do have a void when attached. So there will be a little bit of air introduced at each connection every time you put them together. Similarly, every time you disconnect them, a few CC's of hydraulic oil/ATF will spill from the female connector. I think I can cut the problem in half by leaving the hoses connected to the pump unit. I also have a couple small plastic catch-bags with rubber bands to put over the end of each hose when it's disconnected to catch and stray dribbles. Still, have a towel/rag handy whenever you disconnect one of these fittings.

Local Wal-Mart had Castrol ATF by the gallon jug, so I grabbed three and used about 10 quarts of that so far. I'll check the reservoir after a few cycles and see if it needs more.

Anybody else have good install tips/suggestions?

928mac

I just wish it lifted higher, 4 feet is not enough.

AO

Here's mine on the lift. I, too, wish it went up just a bit more. I tried scooting around on a roller stool under it, and I'm a bit too tall. Will get a lower stool or sit on the floor.

Note: The pictures do not show it in the tallest position.

Herman K

Theo made up this mobile seat...
When you make yours...please (2)

jthwan22

I think the hose is too short. The control unit sits right in front of the car when everything is connected. I am thinking of getting longer hoses so the control unit sits at a better spot and get the hoses off the ground.

dr bob

The Good News is that there are extra 6" lift extensions available. With the included 3" extensions, that adds quite a bit to the height. We knew going in that there are tradeoffs with the Max-Jax. The upside of these is that they get rolled out of the way when I don't plan to lift the car. That would be "almost all the time", when I want free walk-through access around the car.

On the hose length-- Local hydraulic hose suppliers can easily give you hoses and a coupler to extend the furnished hoses. But then there's more hose to store.

pjg

Talked to MaxJax rep about longer hoses, they said if you increase the length it must be done on both sides.

AO

That doesn't make sense. I was thinking of make one longer and one shorter and maybe put the control unit on the wall.

pjg

I don't think hose length should matter as long as you bleed it properly , here is a link with a wall mounted pump. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=78837