Mrmerlin

this is what i use for the WP bolts and the threads for the tensioner and pivot bolt
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LOCTITE 592 Thread Sealant PST Pipe Sealant With PTFE 50 ml

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* Material Safety Data Sheet
* Technical Data Sheet

* Name:
* LOCTITE 592 Thread Sealant PST Pipe Sealant With PTFE 50 ml
* Part #:
* 59231
* Description:
* 592 Thread Sealant is a single component, high viscosity, medium strength thread sealing adhesive; it has high temperature resistance, high lubricating properties and fittings can be readjusted shortly after assembly. 50 ml tube.

Quantity Price
1-16 $16.88
17-94 $12.13
95+ $10.60
Quantity: Unit Price:
$16.88
Total:
$16.88

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Typical Use:
Used for immediate low pressure thread sealing, after full cure joints are sealed to pipe burst pressure; typically used in applications up to 204°C.
Color/Appearance:
White
Product Name: LOCTITE® 592™ Thread Sealant PST® Pipe Sealant With PTFE 50 ml 1 Or 2 Part: 1
Base Chemistry: Acrylic Viscosity Cp: 350,000
Service Temperature : Up to 204°C Cure Time: 72 hrs
Specific Gravity: 1.21 Thermal Conductivity: 0.1 W/(m.K)
Flash Point: >200°F



The Hondabond 4 is purchased from the motorcycle dealer,
there is also Yahmabond

aaddpp

^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Thanks!

Ed Scherer

FWIW, last week I picked up a tube of YamaBond 4 Liquid Gasket for about $11 at a local motorcycle shop's parts counter. I was in and out of there in under five minutes. Guy said that they sell a lot of it, much of it for purposes (like ours) other than motorcycles.

Ed Scherer

OK, here's tonight's question: about threadlockers. In particular when and why they're used and when and why there's not used when you think maybe they should be.

Case in point: recently, I've been touching all sorts of parts. Lots of sensors and senders. I've also been into the heads a little (cam chain tensioner pad replacement while I had the covers off anyway).

So... why does something like, e.g., the crank position sensor bolt have blue threadlocker on it, when it (at least to me) lives in a pretty oil-free, stable environment and (IMHO) seems unlikely to back out. And the threadlocker apparently gives people some grief during maintenance (seems like there are a lot of posts related to people having a hard time breaking that bolt loose). Furthermore, even if the bolt did back out, it's not the end of the world. Based on how wedged the sensor gets, it probably wouldn't even budge anyway!

Yet... you've got these cam chain tensioner bolts (as well as the banjo bolts for the oil feed tubes) torqued to only 10 N·m, soaked with oil, with no lock washers, and no threadlocker. And maybe lots of vibration, too; I'm not sure. What seems crazy to me, though, is that if these bolts back out, it's quite possibly catastrophic. Head damage, valve damage... it could get really bad. If I didn't know better, I would have cleaned as much oil off as possible (at least on the main mounting bolts, not the banjos) and the threaded holes in the head and used some Loctite 243 / Permatex 24300 (it's supposed to coexist with oil better than 242) on the bolts.

And nowhere do I see anyone proposing using threadlocker on these bolts. So I didn't use any, since most of my research tells me "the experts" don't use it and the WSM doesn't call for it. (I might go back and do so, though, if I get any evidence that it's a good idea).

Anyway, we've all seen another case (oil pan bolts) of where oil soaked bolts certainly do back out quite often.

So... what do I not understand? I already kind of posed the question about the cam chain tensioner bolts earlier today, but now I'd like to understand why (i.e., the general principles at play) rather than just "don't worry about it."




(Scary references: (1) "Found all the missing pieces in an oil passage....*pics*"; (2) "Look what I found in my oil pan...", especially, post #28 in that thread)

Nightfly

Just have to add this one in; and this is not an endorsement of any kind. But after buying my car in November 07, feeling it too cold to be working long hours on cold pavement and/or in the rain doing my first 928 water pump job, I decided to bring it to a shop. And, mentioned after the job was done, that there was no gasket on the old pump (also evidence that there was a TB/WP job done at some point in the past on my 72K motor). None. Just what appeared to be permatex form a gasket material. And no evidence of any leaks. Some of you may remember the TV commercials many years ago, of Permatex showing a nascar stocker racing about a track, and saying that the car had NO gaskets. Well, I guess if it's done right, it works, at least other than head gaskets, I would imagine. So if it's 2 a.m. on a sunday morning, and you ruin your only gasket, it's probably safe to use the permatex goo to make your own. Modern chemists, my hat's off to you.

syoo8

Hi Ed,

I admire your meticulousness in this thread!

What did you end up using for your valve covers? A bead of hondabond? A 'dab' of Dreibond?

Were you ever able to compile an excel worksheet for best practices?

All the best (from Columbia, MO)

johnu

Do the bolt holes go right through to the inside of the waterpump??? If I don't seal the threads on the bolt will the waterpump leak?

Ed Scherer

Thanks... never did really assemble this in any useful way. Sorry.

IIRC, I wound up using a bead of Yamabond between the cover and gasket (nothing on most of the bottom side), and then a litte Dreibond on the corners of the bottom side.

No leaks since then.

17prospective buyer

One thing i've never been clear on with using RTV is when the two mating parts should be mated after the RTV is applied, should they be mated with one another right after applying? Or should you wait until it has cured enough to form a skin on the outside, or fully cured??

Tiger03447

Guys: FYI and WIW... In my experience, you have to heat something that has been bonded with red loctite..Blue loctite is wrenchable for disassembly..All of these products use methyl methacrylate (plexiglass) in varying concentrations to enhance the bond of the parts being fastened together...check the back of your permatex loctite (same company) card that comes with the loctite. ..their info cards found at most bearing supply places will give much more info about their product line...you would be amazed...jus sayin..