Installed Rotella Syn 5W40 today.
09-17-2010, 12:09 AM
#17
Three Wheelin'
09-17-2010, 12:12 AM
#18
Race Car
as far as feeling the differnce in performance between a 50weight vs a 40 weight??? OMG, thats probably a solid .000050609958848 hp saved there, unless the moon is aligned with mars, AND we are not getting bombarded, like we were yesterday, by huge amounts of gama rays effecting fuel atomization and ionization, from a solar flare.
Dan
'91 928GT S/C
475hp/460lb.ft
09-17-2010, 12:16 AM
#19
09-17-2010, 12:37 AM
#20
Three Wheelin'
Looks like I'll stick with Mobil 1!
09-17-2010, 01:02 AM
#21
Been selling Twinkies on Ebay,
have some extra cash right now.
Rennlist Member
have some extra cash right now.
Rennlist Member
Probably a stupid question, probably gonna get torn a new one, but...
Assuming the oil pressure stays high enough when hot, isn't everything OK?
Assuming the oil pressure stays high enough when hot, isn't everything OK?
09-17-2010, 01:03 AM
#22
Race Car
09-17-2010, 01:19 AM
#24
It's just a personal thing, if you are sure your gauge is correct at a hot idle, and you can get 1.5-2.5 bar ( gonna happen in Texas no matter what oil you use) sure, you are good.
At idle, the cars I deal with, your mileage may vary, 95 plus days the oil pressure at idle is 1.5-2.00 on the cluster. The gauges are known to be inaccurate. When I did a test run of 10-40, for ****s and giggles last year, it was 1.0 or lower. Light came on, didn't like that.
I am not a doctor, nor do I play one on TV. I fake it real good at home though.
Coming up on fall/winter, if you are in northern climates, you will be fine with a 10w-40, if you live in canada, wow....that sucks.
*personal opinion here, just shrug if off if you dont' agree.
At idle, the cars I deal with, your mileage may vary, 95 plus days the oil pressure at idle is 1.5-2.00 on the cluster. The gauges are known to be inaccurate. When I did a test run of 10-40, for ****s and giggles last year, it was 1.0 or lower. Light came on, didn't like that.
I am not a doctor, nor do I play one on TV. I fake it real good at home though.
Coming up on fall/winter, if you are in northern climates, you will be fine with a 10w-40, if you live in canada, wow....that sucks.
*personal opinion here, just shrug if off if you dont' agree.
09-17-2010, 01:59 AM
#25
Former Sponsor
Note that this poor guy has an '82 with an automatic. No oil cooler.
You can almost hear those rod bearings scraping off material on the crankshaft, from here.
Dude, no idea what made you pick that weight oil. Do yourself a favor and drain that sewing machine oil out of there and put 20/50 anything in there!
You can almost hear those rod bearings scraping off material on the crankshaft, from here.
Dude, no idea what made you pick that weight oil. Do yourself a favor and drain that sewing machine oil out of there and put 20/50 anything in there!
09-17-2010, 02:05 AM
#26
Rennlist Member
ha ha!
Yep, but as far as the oil cooler is going, i never had one on my part euro 5 liter and scot doesnt either. temps are pretty close with and without. probably 10 degrees cooler if I was to guess , since I cant remember the actual values. I put my oil temp contraption on scots car for a while while he raced it to see the values. 260F was a max. I dont get that high unless its a 110 degree day.
Yep, but as far as the oil cooler is going, i never had one on my part euro 5 liter and scot doesnt either. temps are pretty close with and without. probably 10 degrees cooler if I was to guess , since I cant remember the actual values. I put my oil temp contraption on scots car for a while while he raced it to see the values. 260F was a max. I dont get that high unless its a 110 degree day.
Note that this poor guy has an '82 with an automatic. No oil cooler.
You can almost hear those rod bearings scraping off material on the crankshaft, from here.
Dude, no idea what made you pick that weight oil. Do yourself a favor and drain that sewing machine oil out of there and put 20/50 anything in there!
You can almost hear those rod bearings scraping off material on the crankshaft, from here.
Dude, no idea what made you pick that weight oil. Do yourself a favor and drain that sewing machine oil out of there and put 20/50 anything in there!
09-17-2010, 02:21 AM
#27
Three Wheelin'
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Ambient temp got up to 90 today. Put 150 miles on the new oil, running great so far, pressure never fell below 2.5 bar at idle, stayed at 4.5 at speed. Engine is silky smooth and more responsive than with RP.
Summer is nearly over anyway. *pfffft*
Summer is nearly over anyway. *pfffft*
09-17-2010, 02:22 AM
#28
HolyF*ck Mark, is there nothing you will argue about here?
09-17-2010, 08:12 AM
#29
IMO, that would need to be 20/50 High Performance, and not 20/50 extended performance, or any other type of M1. M1 20/50 HP is the only M1 with anything close to the levels of Zinc needed to protect GT camshafts, which are known to need protection.
Anyone who wants to run a less expensive oil can use Valvoline VR1 Racing 20/50.
You want to really cry, run a 0/30 or 0/40 synthetic oil and repeatedly hold your revs above 6000. You will stand a good chance of spinning a rod bearing. AFAK, Redline is the only synthetic 40 weight oil that still has film thickness at high temperatures, due to the use of a different base stock than other synthetic oils. Don't take that as a recommendation either.
Most synthetic 20/50 oils are recommended for use in temperatures down to 5 degrees farenheit. And let's be clear. Zinc in the form of ZDDP is to protect cams. Having an oil with a 50 weight rating is because it creates a thicker oil film in the bearings and on piston walls. It fills gaps better.
All the shear strength in the world will not help a light weight synthetic oil fill a larger gap. Tolerances of today's engines were designed around light weight oil. Older cars were designed around thicker dino oils, and the tolerances of the day. Bearings Float on that cushion of oil, evenly distributing the pressure of loads on the entire film surface. When the oil cushion is too thin, oil is flowing out of the gap, and pressure is not distributed, it falls on the pressure point on the bearing surface. All the shear strength in the world will not save you from that.
All wear occurs when metal touches metal. The reason a 928 engine can run as much as 400,000 miles is because the oil film prevents metal from ever touching metal.
USE THE RIGHT OIL !!!
Anyone who wants to run a less expensive oil can use Valvoline VR1 Racing 20/50.
You want to really cry, run a 0/30 or 0/40 synthetic oil and repeatedly hold your revs above 6000. You will stand a good chance of spinning a rod bearing. AFAK, Redline is the only synthetic 40 weight oil that still has film thickness at high temperatures, due to the use of a different base stock than other synthetic oils. Don't take that as a recommendation either.
Most synthetic 20/50 oils are recommended for use in temperatures down to 5 degrees farenheit. And let's be clear. Zinc in the form of ZDDP is to protect cams. Having an oil with a 50 weight rating is because it creates a thicker oil film in the bearings and on piston walls. It fills gaps better.
All the shear strength in the world will not help a light weight synthetic oil fill a larger gap. Tolerances of today's engines were designed around light weight oil. Older cars were designed around thicker dino oils, and the tolerances of the day. Bearings Float on that cushion of oil, evenly distributing the pressure of loads on the entire film surface. When the oil cushion is too thin, oil is flowing out of the gap, and pressure is not distributed, it falls on the pressure point on the bearing surface. All the shear strength in the world will not save you from that.
All wear occurs when metal touches metal. The reason a 928 engine can run as much as 400,000 miles is because the oil film prevents metal from ever touching metal.
USE THE RIGHT OIL !!!
09-17-2010, 08:16 AM
#30
Note that this poor guy has an '82 with an automatic. No oil cooler.
You can almost hear those rod bearings scraping off material on the crankshaft, from here.
Dude, no idea what made you pick that weight oil. Do yourself a favor and drain that sewing machine oil out of there and put 20/50 anything in there!
You can almost hear those rod bearings scraping off material on the crankshaft, from here.
Dude, no idea what made you pick that weight oil. Do yourself a favor and drain that sewing machine oil out of there and put 20/50 anything in there!
Listen to him.