Amsoil - Racing 928- oil report- Hard to argue these results
08-05-2010, 12:58 AM
#16
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I think what we are all looking for is a sign that the #2-6 bearings are failing. If the oil can keep viscosity after this much use and at the temps I run at, then its a good sign that the oil is durable.
The key factor might be the loss of viscosity at the higher temps (i.e. 260F) . we will really not know that answer, until someone does a different test to determine the differences. Maybe its film strength, or its pretty red color.
either way, I will not be changing brands soon, not after 10 full racing seasons without any issues! 
The key factor might be the loss of viscosity at the higher temps (i.e. 260F) . we will really not know that answer, until someone does a different test to determine the differences. Maybe its film strength, or its pretty red color.
either way, I will not be changing brands soon, not after 10 full racing seasons without any issues!
08-05-2010, 01:14 AM
#17
Advanced
I work for a major oil company. The Amsoil is a good synthetic. The color means nothing though! It is marketing 101. Viscosity Index relates to how stable a lubricant is, and the Amsoil has a good VI. Any high quality synthetic base oil will perform good at high temperatures. The second most important part is the lubricity additive package.
08-05-2010, 01:25 AM
#18
Former Sponsor
Look at those phosphorus and zinc numbers. Wow.
There's so much of that stuff that even if the pick-up uncovered, the bearings would be floating on that, alone.
There's so much of that stuff that even if the pick-up uncovered, the bearings would be floating on that, alone.
08-05-2010, 02:07 AM
#19
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1% zinc seems to be optimal with more or less not so good for wear. The additive package is critically important and needs to be appropriate for the application. A great synthetic base oil without a proper additive package can result in severe engine damage. That's why using an oil with the proper chemistry for the application is so important these days. The one size fits all approach to oil is no longer applicable.
In the OP's case he can't really tell how the oil is performing in the engine without disassembly and inspection. People have had excellent UOAs right up to within days of a failure. That's why a UOA should only be used to determine if the oil can be run for a longer service interval and what contaminants are present.
In the OP's case he can't really tell how the oil is performing in the engine without disassembly and inspection. People have had excellent UOAs right up to within days of a failure. That's why a UOA should only be used to determine if the oil can be run for a longer service interval and what contaminants are present.
08-05-2010, 02:13 AM
#20
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Thread Starter
Well, we do have the 8 full race season Holbert engine to look at. it looked pretty good when I pulled it and took it apart. When Obehave pulls a bearing cap, (he has the short block now) I suspect there will be normal wear for a 40,000 mile engine.
The new formulation of Amzoil's racing oil has more zinc and less detergents now.
The new formulation of Amzoil's racing oil has more zinc and less detergents now.
1% zinc seems to be optimal with more or less not so good for wear.
Unfortunately you can't tell anything about how the oil is really performing in the engine without disassembly and inspection. People have had excellent UOAs right up to within days of a failure. That's why a UOA should only be used to determine if the oil can be run for a longer service interval.
Unfortunately you can't tell anything about how the oil is really performing in the engine without disassembly and inspection. People have had excellent UOAs right up to within days of a failure. That's why a UOA should only be used to determine if the oil can be run for a longer service interval.
08-05-2010, 02:56 AM
#21
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Unfortunately Amsoil makes regular changes in their formulations and without engine testing you don't know what to expect from the changes. They may be fine for some engines and not so good for others. The API has reportedly reprimanded Amsoil a few times for their activities?
08-07-2010, 11:19 AM
#22
Race Director
Hey Mark,
Which Amsoil is this. 20w50 Series 2000 or the newer 15w50 dominator? I still have 20w50 Series 2000 in my car, but I think I all done with my suppy of that so I will be going with the Dominator soon.
Which Amsoil is this. 20w50 Series 2000 or the newer 15w50 dominator? I still have 20w50 Series 2000 in my car, but I think I all done with my suppy of that so I will be going with the Dominator soon.
08-07-2010, 12:34 PM
#24
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08-07-2010, 01:12 PM
#25
Three Wheelin'
Good looking results. Does the Amsoil 20/50 have as high zinc level as M1 15/50?
Recall a thread about the merits of good zinc levels for our engines. Thanks
Recall a thread about the merits of good zinc levels for our engines. Thanks
08-09-2010, 12:51 AM
#26
Race Director
The data that MK has is with 15-50 racing.....since they don't make the 20-50 anymore....my test results also mirror MK's.....
Speaking of Oil Pressure.....I raced a 1969 Opel GT this weekend and the "lack" of oil pressure in that car SCARED ME....dead cold oil pressure on Amsoil 15-50 was 50 psi....typical hot high rpm race pressure was 35psi that would drop to 12.5 psi in the corners!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Yes you heard me right.....12.5 psi........it scared me SO much that I would coast and turn harder....then throttle and turn less to try to save the engine.......the engine did last the whole race so it must have been okay...but 12.5psi at 4500rpm can't be good?
Speaking of Oil Pressure.....I raced a 1969 Opel GT this weekend and the "lack" of oil pressure in that car SCARED ME....dead cold oil pressure on Amsoil 15-50 was 50 psi....typical hot high rpm race pressure was 35psi that would drop to 12.5 psi in the corners!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Yes you heard me right.....12.5 psi........it scared me SO much that I would coast and turn harder....then throttle and turn less to try to save the engine.......the engine did last the whole race so it must have been okay...but 12.5psi at 4500rpm can't be good?
08-09-2010, 02:14 AM
#28
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Thread Starter
always the racing oil, but now the racing oil only comes in a 15-50 weight for our cars.
Yes, it is much higher in zinc now, but lacking a lot of the detergents.
Yes, it is much higher in zinc now, but lacking a lot of the detergents.
08-09-2010, 02:30 AM
#29
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As of last year or so Mobil 1 lowered their Zinc and HDDP for smog purposes. The Shell Rotella that used to be popular also does not have good levels for older and race engines.
I follow the pelican oil thread and some of the current oils off the top of my head are:
Swepco
Valvoline VR1
Amsoil
Royal Purple
and some various others like motorcycle oil, etc...
M1 is now a big waste of money.