BC

And as I see it, I owe you a rod Jake. So you tell me what I need to do to make it right on this issue.

Ducman82

im waiting to hear back from a few people who might have a spare, no big deal B.

mark kibort

all that force on the alumium cradle, crank, etc. think that could be a concern?

wow, its one thing to measure some out of spec issues with our engine internals, and another to be able to SEE it visually!

Ducman82

im going to take the block, cradle, and cam towers to get cleaned and have the block checked this week. when i get the rod thing figured out, ill take the crank and rods in to get checked as well. but i dont see any bearing "burns" or marks on the crank or rod bearings. so if there is issues, they are super hidden.

S4ordie

Dare I say it? Yep, I just gotta say it....... "Spare the rod and spoil the child". There I feel better now. Not often you can mix automotive and biblical context in humor. Rather proud of myself. I'm here all week and try the veal.

danglerb

I bought the engine from Atasco, a Japanese engine importer, and pulled the heads for my hybrid project. BC bought the short block from me to make a package of his heads and other top end parts. Sorry to hear about the rod, I wouldn't have sold it if I suspected any issues.

AO

You need to check the bore on #5 to make sure "the event" didn't baloon the cylinder. But at least you have a cool piece of wall art!

Ducman82

that is very true! it is a nice piece of wall art, i just need to clean it up more.

Imo000

This is usually a standard procedure during a full engine rebuild but if the con rod bearing holes check out perfect. There is no need to do this as it weakens the rods anyways.

Ducman82

so whilst hunting locally for a rod , i found a guy with a 5.0 short block out of an 85. it war removed due to a rod knock. so we shall see if its worth anything on friday.

Ducman82

So i picked up that 5.0 yesterday, and I am now in the process or taking the short bloke apart. The crank bolt is beige very stubborn and the head studs don't want to budge at all. But im sure a little pb blaster sitting all day should help. Any tips on the crank bolt? Its just standard thread right, not reverse?

Okn another not, now i need to decide on what block to use. Looking at the stats the euro makes more HP then the 5.0, but the 5.0 makes more torque. But how they the 5.0 will act with euro cams and heads i don't know.. Thoughts on that guys?

LT Texan

the 5 liter will love the euro S heads and cam. Also will raise the comp ratio about 1/2 a point.

I'd watch out for incompatable valve reliefs on the 5 liter. Is the 5 liter a 4 valve? I'm not a big fan of gigantic valve reliefs necessary for a non-interference engine - but I'm in a minority.

Iwanna928

4.7L or 5.0L is a good question.The 4.7 won't need to be cut and the 5.0 will. I know MK did them himself with the pistons in the motor. I am sure he would help you.

I always like to have as much tq as possible for the street but with adding a SC I would build whatever, not sure 300cc is going to break the bank one way or the other if you are boosting her. If I was building for boost I would look into nikasil'ing the block and adding a set of nice forged piston's, rings, HG etc. Just like John K did for the bastard

Being in your shoes and having the blocks apart, I would pick one and build it properly for boost. I would just like to have that taken care of instead of building a motor for boost with parts that weren't designed for boost. I know others disagree and I am not trying to start an arguement. It's just my 2 cents.

mark kibort

actually, I did the valve reliefs on the pistons out of the engine, BUT, even with a euro piston to use as a template, twice, the machine shop did it, and it still hit the valves (upon claying the pistons and depressing the valves) so I took about 2mm more out of the valve pocket with the piston in the engine block. (messy). I have a stensil now, if I ever had to do it again. you probably could do it in the engine with an air grinder.

GlenL

Are you using an iPhone? Those create the most amusing Malaprops.

The crank bolt is a regular bolt, just big and tight. Block the crank and have at it. An impact wrench will be good over feet of cheater bar.

Lots of ideas for what you should do. I would build it as stock. Going with the 5l makes sense as it's bigger (duh) and it will have lower compression especially after notching the pistons. That'll be better for boost if you do that. Of course, notching as money and time and mods mean risk.

The Euro makes more power because of the cams. The US 5l can produce bigger power with adding chip. The Euro can be imporved with timing and exhaust. And on and on!

What are you trying to accomplish, what's your budget and what can you do yourself? Maybe these are rhetorical questions but the answers will guide your decisions. More than 1 guy has gotten in too far, planned one mod after another and ended up without a car to drive for extended periods of time trying to resolve problems and find the money.