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Old 06-23-2010, 07:48 PM
  #16  
zoltan944
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Benton, our new sponsor listed a used starter and he is in FL I think, may be the closest and quickest!
Maybe someone close has one to tryout real quick, they are actually real easy to replace (at least the OB)
Old 06-23-2010, 08:24 PM
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Zoltan I like your intake look you need to color the letters then it's perfect :icon:
Old 06-23-2010, 09:19 PM
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Iwanna928
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I will be picking up a starter tomorrow from Mike Simard.
I also get to see that 7.0l monster! So it will be a good day!


I will attempt to put it in myself. This should be interesting. I have a mechanical IQ of a 10 yr old!

Thanks again everyone. I would be so lost without this forum!
Old 06-23-2010, 09:38 PM
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Fabio421
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The heat from the headers aren't helping the starter any. Maybe fab up some sort of rudimentary heat shield or wrap the headers in the area near the starter once you replace it. BTW, I think you may have to drop the header on the one side to get the starter out. This is from memory so try it first without removing that header first. Maybe someone else can chime in here.
Old 06-24-2010, 03:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Fabio421
The heat from the headers aren't helping the starter any. Maybe fab up some sort of rudimentary heat shield or wrap the headers in the area near the starter once you replace it. BTW, I think you may have to drop the header on the one side to get the starter out. This is from memory so try it first without removing that header first. Maybe someone else can chime in here.
if anything it should only be the Y pipe that drops, I have an X pipe and no exhaust removal necessary, stock may need to to go tho...
Old 06-24-2010, 03:26 PM
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Iwanna928
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What tools are needed to take the starter out? The two bolts look like I need a Allen. Is that correct? Hard to see under there. This should be interesting!
Old 06-24-2010, 03:35 PM
  #22  
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IIRC you need an 8mm allen. One of them is a real bitch to get at. I cut off about 1/2" of an allen key and then used an 8mm gear wrench to drive it. Works great.

Then you'll need a (this is where I'm a bit foggy) 13mm and a 10mm? wrench for the connections. Make sure you diconnect you battery before you do this.

Should only take about 20 minutes (if you have the gear wrench and 8mm stub - way longer if you don't)
Old 06-24-2010, 04:53 PM
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8mm is correct, the rear can be on a ratchet but the side is a huge PITA and needs to be worked out little by little.
Old 06-24-2010, 05:11 PM
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dr bob
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You'll want an 8MM socket or box wrench for the trigger and ignition-boost wires on the starter itself. The big Allen key is fun; use a box end wrench to 'extend' the Allen key to get it broken loose.

---

Some more or less morbid thoughts:

-- Make sure the engine will actually rotate with a wrench before you dink with the starter motor.

-- Battery is charged

-- Relay!-Relay!-Relay! Don't remember if that car has a starter relay. If it dos, a momentary jump from terminal 30 to 87 should engage the starter motor. Make sure the trans is in neutral.

-- Since this is a stick car, you should be able to push-start the thing. Can you? That would answer the first item above about making sure the motor will actually rotate.
Old 06-24-2010, 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by dr bob
You'll want an 8MM socket or box wrench for the trigger and ignition-boost wires on the starter itself. The big Allen key is fun; use a box end wrench to 'extend' the Allen key to get it broken loose.

---

Some more or less morbid thoughts:

-- Make sure the engine will actually rotate with a wrench before you dink with the starter motor.

-- Battery is charged

-- Relay!-Relay!-Relay! Don't remember if that car has a starter relay. If it dos, a momentary jump from terminal 30 to 87 should engage the starter motor. Make sure the trans is in neutral.

-- Since this is a stick car, you should be able to push-start the thing. Can you? That would answer the first item above about making sure the motor will actually rotate.
I had him turn the engine the other day by putting it in gear and pushing the car while someone watched the crank pulley. He said it does turn so good news there.

No starter relay on a 5 speed 16v. There is just a "start bridge". I'm not sure about the newer cars, I've never had one.

Steven, you can jump the starter with a small wire or a long hot wire. This will allow you to test the actual starter by itself and not the entire start circuit.
Old 06-24-2010, 05:32 PM
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Old 06-25-2010, 09:08 PM
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Well igot the starter out yesterday. That was fun! Just what the neighbors need some crazy guy yelling every once in a while and trying to control a 5 and 3 yr old from undera car.!

I had my on court interview today. Played a guy in singles, then a doubles match and had to give 2 lessons. I was on the court from 9 to 230 no break! It was worth it as I got the job! I was so hot and tired that I came home took a cold shower and got in bed and fought leg cramps! I will hopefully finish tomorrow.

Having a hard time with that hidden bolt! Any hints getting it all the way tight? I get it a little of the way and it stops! I have been giggling the starter to get past my bad spots. It isn't easy for a retard like me!
Old 06-25-2010, 09:10 PM
  #28  
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A cut of piece of Allen wrench driven by a GearWrench?

That's what I would try.
Old 06-25-2010, 10:17 PM
  #29  
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On my 84, what Andrew and Mike both said. But the hydraulics for the slave are also in the way, and the line has a clamp pinned under 2 oil pan bolts. So I remove the slave from the bell housing, loosten the hydraulic line slightly to change the orientation of the slave, pull two oil pan bolts and bend/stretch the slave line so the short hex piece can be driven with the gear wrench.

Congrats on job.

Who is in avatar?
Old 06-25-2010, 10:59 PM
  #30  
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^^^^^
That is McEnroe w/ a fro' man!


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