Brake pad breaking in?
06-10-2010, 08:50 PM
#16
Mark,
I was not referring to the hand brake, I was referring to hard braking.
Been driving Porsches since the 60's , drum and disks with drum hand brakes, and other cars with inboard and outboard disks and some even used the hand brake attached to the pads.
Each brake manufacture has different ways to bed in the brakes, so as I have said in previous posts, it is the owner's call what he/she does to bed them. We listen to the advice and make the call.
Whatever works for them, works for them, however may not be satisfactory for the next guy.
Tails 1990 928S4 Auto
I was not referring to the hand brake, I was referring to hard braking.
Been driving Porsches since the 60's , drum and disks with drum hand brakes, and other cars with inboard and outboard disks and some even used the hand brake attached to the pads.
Each brake manufacture has different ways to bed in the brakes, so as I have said in previous posts, it is the owner's call what he/she does to bed them. We listen to the advice and make the call.
Whatever works for them, works for them, however may not be satisfactory for the next guy.
Tails 1990 928S4 Auto
06-10-2010, 11:50 PM
#17
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Tampa--
Did you true and resurface the rotors or just toss new pads in with the worn surface? If the latter, it may take longer to get the pads worn to match the existing wear in the rotor faces.
Did you true and resurface the rotors or just toss new pads in with the worn surface? If the latter, it may take longer to get the pads worn to match the existing wear in the rotor faces.
06-11-2010, 01:07 AM
#23
Under the Lift
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The section "To further improve braking action, ..." scares me. That could get things very hot and smokey. Frankly, for street driving, I don't do much of anything other than a few hard stops after installing new pads.
06-11-2010, 07:08 AM
#25
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The Porshe service technical bulletin describes how
to bed in brake pads as manufactured in 1978.
1978 pads were based on asbestos and were
bonded using volatile organic compounds.
Brakes worked by friction between the steel
disc and the brake compound
Pad materials have changes out of all recognition in the
intervening 32 years. Now pads are non asbestos,
metallic and/ or ceramic based bonded using non volatile
compunds. During bedding in you transfer and fuse
some of the brake pad to the disc surface and thereafter
the friction is brake compound to brake compound.
Common sense would indicate that the bedding in method
would vary with the exact nature of the pad material
and I would think that the best information would come
from the specific pad manufacturer.
to bed in brake pads as manufactured in 1978.
1978 pads were based on asbestos and were
bonded using volatile organic compounds.
Brakes worked by friction between the steel
disc and the brake compound
Pad materials have changes out of all recognition in the
intervening 32 years. Now pads are non asbestos,
metallic and/ or ceramic based bonded using non volatile
compunds. During bedding in you transfer and fuse
some of the brake pad to the disc surface and thereafter
the friction is brake compound to brake compound.
Common sense would indicate that the bedding in method
would vary with the exact nature of the pad material
and I would think that the best information would come
from the specific pad manufacturer.
06-13-2010, 08:03 PM
#26
Race Car
Thread Starter
It's official these pads suck!
Well it is official these pads suck, after driving 500 miles and a lot of heavy braking they sill suck.
I want to try something else how about ceramic or any recommendations for a non raced 85 Euro. I want my braking back
I want to try something else how about ceramic or any recommendations for a non raced 85 Euro. I want my braking back
06-13-2010, 08:48 PM
#27
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Ran the Wagners on 3 of my daily driver vehicles.. Montero, s70, mdx and they are very soft. On my Montero Limited, ended up putting the real dusty Mitsu pads back on the fronts after about 2 months.
Great thing about the pads is that they dont dust much... but dont bite well either.
Great thing about the pads is that they dont dust much... but dont bite well either.
06-13-2010, 09:44 PM
#28
Race Car
Thread Starter
The comment about changing rotors I did not change them so could this be the issue. I am looking at:
Hawk Performance Ceramic Pads (Material: Ceramic)
Hawk HPS Street brake pads (Material: Composite)
Pagid is an OEM supplier to Porsche.
Mintex is an aftermarket supplier of Porsche parts.
Hawk Performance Ceramic Pads (Material: Ceramic)
Hawk HPS Street brake pads (Material: Composite)
Pagid is an OEM supplier to Porsche.
Mintex is an aftermarket supplier of Porsche parts.
06-15-2010, 08:01 AM
#29
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. Personally, what we do in racing is to drive at increasing pace for more than 8 laps. First lap the braking points are 3 times the normal distance, lap 3 are twice, lap 5 are one and a half and so. We discover that faster pace produce uneven temperature, big chances to bend the discs and glaze the pads: vibrations and much shorter life.
It's the only way to achieve reliable braking for many laps 100% of times. I've tried many other ways, usually involving heavy brakings and/or both pedals at a time and when you are lucky not to overheat, then the process it's faster, but if you overheat, you ruin them.
In street cars I do the same, just take it easy for the first 500km. It takes long, yeah, but then you can keep the brakes for many thousands kms, no matter how hard you push them after the period.
Remember the only thing to avoid during running in period is overheat. It's ok if it takes long, because you can stop (in the event of an emergency) as fast with bed brakes than with brand new ones (without bedding), it´s just you have more chances to bend them (although it's almost impossible in just one braking, unless you are making +200kph), and you have to apply more pressure to the pedal, (but it's always well inside human leg max force).
Just my 2 cents.
06-15-2010, 03:09 PM
#30
Rennlist Member
on the track, the pads are fully bedded after 2 laps. you can tell, as they smell and give some pretty good fade by the 2nd lap. 2 cool down laps and they are good to go. a few more laps to finish out the session. maybe a little further bedding in the processs, but they are fully functional. by next session they are as good and in max performance stage.
you can tell when the heat signature is over half the pad. (discolored, white area) this can only go to about 1/4 pad on the street doing all sorts of hard braking excersizes. the track is another animal.
you can tell when the heat signature is over half the pad. (discolored, white area) this can only go to about 1/4 pad on the street doing all sorts of hard braking excersizes. the track is another animal.
It's amazing how fast they empty the vacuum out of the booster .
Personally, what we do in racing is to drive at increasing pace for more than 8 laps. First lap the braking points are 3 times the normal distance, lap 3 are twice, lap 5 are one and a half and so. We discover that faster pace produce uneven temperature, big chances to bend the discs and glaze the pads: vibrations and much shorter life.
It's the only way to achieve reliable braking for many laps 100% of times. I've tried many other ways, usually involving heavy brakings and/or both pedals at a time and when you are lucky not to overheat, then the process it's faster, but if you overheat, you ruin them.
In street cars I do the same, just take it easy for the first 500km. It takes long, yeah, but then you can keep the brakes for many thousands kms, no matter how hard you push them after the period.
Remember the only thing to avoid during running in period is overheat. It's ok if it takes long, because you can stop (in the event of an emergency) as fast with bed brakes than with brand new ones (without bedding), it´s just you have more chances to bend them (although it's almost impossible in just one braking, unless you are making +200kph), and you have to apply more pressure to the pedal, (but it's always well inside human leg max force).
Just my 2 cents.
. Personally, what we do in racing is to drive at increasing pace for more than 8 laps. First lap the braking points are 3 times the normal distance, lap 3 are twice, lap 5 are one and a half and so. We discover that faster pace produce uneven temperature, big chances to bend the discs and glaze the pads: vibrations and much shorter life.
It's the only way to achieve reliable braking for many laps 100% of times. I've tried many other ways, usually involving heavy brakings and/or both pedals at a time and when you are lucky not to overheat, then the process it's faster, but if you overheat, you ruin them.
In street cars I do the same, just take it easy for the first 500km. It takes long, yeah, but then you can keep the brakes for many thousands kms, no matter how hard you push them after the period.
Remember the only thing to avoid during running in period is overheat. It's ok if it takes long, because you can stop (in the event of an emergency) as fast with bed brakes than with brand new ones (without bedding), it´s just you have more chances to bend them (although it's almost impossible in just one braking, unless you are making +200kph), and you have to apply more pressure to the pedal, (but it's always well inside human leg max force).
Just my 2 cents.