Tampa 928s

85-Euro
How long does it take for a set of front brake pads to break in. I have a trip this Friday installed a new set and the braking is not very crisp.

Imo000

Do a few 60-10mph, semi emergency type of stops but do not come to a full stop and space them out about 30sec apart. This should be enough for initial inbedding. The rest will come over time. For the next few days try to avoid emergency stops and you'll be fine.

AO

Agree with Imre. That's the best way to bed them in.

What kind of pads, and did you bleed the brakes?

RKD in OKC

Depends highly on the pads. The EBC yellows I put on my GTS took about 200 miles of stop and go city driving to break in. Exactly what EBC recommended.

Tampa 928s

I used: Wagner ThermoQuiet Semi-Metallic Brake Pad Set
I am leaving for a trip Friday and could not find any local jobbers that carried Mintex or other premium brands.
The old pad had Jurio stamped on the back of the pad.
If these stay this way I'll return them.

zoltan944

When i used to deal with Stoptech brakes, their installation method was to clean a new rotor with soap and water install new pad. Drive to 60mph brake to 5mph (don't stop so the pad sits in a single spot) and do that until you are actually feeling the pad fade, you will also smell the brakes at that point too. then drive it back to the location with as little braking as possible so they cool and don't park with emergency brake to give it a full cool time. You have now successfully implaned the pad onto the rotor.
BTW, when we say go to 60 and brake down, that means like brake as if someone pulled out in front of you.

AO

Doesn't sound like you bled the brakes.

Tails

Just installed new front pads and manufacturer recommended no emergency braking (if possible) for 150 miles.

Every one has a good story!

Check the WSM and what does the manufacturer recommend?

Tails 1990 928S4 Auto

Tampa 928s

I bled the brakes

mark kibort

a lot of BS floating around out there. that is the old wives tail version of brake bed in. the real correct way is to do high speed heating of the pads, and usually the 60 to 5mph doesnt work, because its too slow and not as much heat as going from 100 or 80mph to 60 or 40mph. repeat until you get some real fade. then, they should stink like heck and continue driving to cool them down and they are bedded. not as well as a session at the track, but good enough. they will not squeak now as well. Ive do this with about 3 sets of new pads a year and have done this for 10 years now. pagid, mintex, race, street, it doesnt matter. I also do this with my BMW and friends Mercedes. it works well.

btw, the E-brake is a completely separate system inside of the rear hub. no factor on anything, other than when racing , you dont want to set it, because the hub is smokin hot and that could damage the pads in the drum.

zoltan944

couple good points here, on the 928 specifically its a seperate pad, but as pointed out your drum is super hot.
The track is definantly a great way, but not easy for most. Obviously the '60mph' to slow is recommended because of speed limits , and even most people don't have easy access to a road to do this, if you can get more speed it will work better because you wont have to slow down so much therefore needing to pick back up so much speed.
let us know if some of these or any of these help with the problem. Those are some super cheap pads IIRC, the checker/orielly/kragen cheap version of pads, but as pointed out the only pads usually available without mail order.

mark kibort

You can also go 70mph and apply the brakes and (WOT) gas at the same time to your final slow down speed. I do this all the time with bedding my brakes. its amazing how fast they fade to mush. (two times) . do this 3-4 times and they are bedded.

Imo000

I wouldn't be standing on the new pads when the rotors are old. You can easily crack the pads. If the old rotors are not complelty flat, it will have ridges and this will put enourmous pressure on a very small section of the new pad.

Maybe what Mark recoments is a quicker way to inbed the pads but is you do it enough times, the 60-5 will work just as well.

RKD in OKC

Sorry, the EBC Yellows had some sort of coating for bedding in. Their instructions were stop and go driving with only light braking for 200 miles and only to use the brakes hard in an emergency. They stinked and squeeled until about 100 miles. Once the pads are bedded in, then they say to do 4 or 5 high speed to 5mph brake runs with medium pressure and some cooling time between run to burn off the glazing.

They stop well, even cold. i've experienced no brake fade, and my rotors are blue after an autocross event. The dust is low and they are very kind to the rotors. It took a very long time to wear the machining grooves off the rotors.

brianrheffron

Below is a link to a site with good information on bedding in brakes.

http://www.powerbrake.co.za/tech_info/tech_02_bedin.htm

The second link shows details of two ideas to limit heat soak from disc to fluid.
Boiling fluid has been posted as a problem for 928s used on track.
The internally finned air cooled stainless pistons and the mirror polished
stainless heat reflectors on the callipers should both be adaptable to the 928.
There are certainly companies in the UK that will make up stainless steel
pistons to order and adding in the reflectors should be an simple mod for
any reasonably competent home mechanic.

http://www.powerbrake.co.za/news/pr081010.htm