Laso Water Pump - Plastic Impeller
05-24-2010, 02:47 PM
#1
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Laso Water Pump - Plastic Impeller
Just arrived from Germany.
New build Laso water pump (87 to 95) with the ABS plastic impeller.
THE POWER OF RENNLIST AND THE 928 COMMUNITY.
They do listen to us
New build Laso water pump (87 to 95) with the ABS plastic impeller.
THE POWER OF RENNLIST AND THE 928 COMMUNITY.
They do listen to us
__________________
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
George Layton March 2014928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
05-24-2010, 02:56 PM
#5
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If you are using a PKensioner it does not matter if you use old or new style.
Up until 86 the idler roller sits on a boss on the water pump.
They also added the bracket you see on the front of the WP.
A picture would be better but I can't find one.
The early style with plastic impellers are on the way to me as well - no worries.
Up until 86 the idler roller sits on a boss on the water pump.
They also added the bracket you see on the front of the WP.
A picture would be better but I can't find one.
The early style with plastic impellers are on the way to me as well - no worries.
05-24-2010, 02:57 PM
#6
Not the sharpest tool in the shed
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Now there is little risk of of the impellor eating into the block is there still benefit from Ed's improved pulley/bearing design? I think yes as it seems like it will prevent a seized pulley and consequent possible valve damage. Is my thinking on this correct?
05-24-2010, 02:59 PM
#7
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I beleive so for those that need that extra "peace of mind".
I will be selling the new WP's with Ed's modification to the pully for those that want it.
Roger
I will be selling the new WP's with Ed's modification to the pully for those that want it.
Roger
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05-24-2010, 03:31 PM
#8
This is good news indeed.
05-24-2010, 03:42 PM
#10
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FWIW here's the factory plastic impeller for comparison. Dunno what type of plastic it is, but the pump's casting date was 2008.
05-24-2010, 03:58 PM
#12
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For you Plastic Boffins out there -----
To avoid any damage on the engine block we should change the material from grey cast iron to 40% Glass-Reinforced Ryton PPS. This product is the most recognized PPS. It is the compression molded analogue to Ryton R4 resin. It offers better dimensional stability and thermal performance and maintains its strength to above 425°F (220°C).
To avoid any damage on the engine block we should change the material from grey cast iron to 40% Glass-Reinforced Ryton PPS. This product is the most recognized PPS. It is the compression molded analogue to Ryton R4 resin. It offers better dimensional stability and thermal performance and maintains its strength to above 425°F (220°C).
05-24-2010, 04:23 PM
#13
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I disagree Dan.
Ed's design prevents two additional failures. One is the plastic impellor working loose from the knurled shaft. No major damage occurs, just that the car will overheat and the pump will need to be replaced. The second is more significant, in that Ed pins the impellor to the shaft. This prevents the shaft from releasing the impellor and getting pulled forward by the tension on the pulley. This causes catastrophic failure when the TB jumps off track and the valves crash.
What Roger has here is basically an improvement on the stock design and uses new castings, I'd run it on my OB 16v'r no problem. For the stroker, I'd wait until Roger has the sure-thing available. JMHO.
EDIT: Ha Ha, did I just get caught up in double negative here?
Ed's design prevents two additional failures. One is the plastic impellor working loose from the knurled shaft. No major damage occurs, just that the car will overheat and the pump will need to be replaced. The second is more significant, in that Ed pins the impellor to the shaft. This prevents the shaft from releasing the impellor and getting pulled forward by the tension on the pulley. This causes catastrophic failure when the TB jumps off track and the valves crash.
What Roger has here is basically an improvement on the stock design and uses new castings, I'd run it on my OB 16v'r no problem. For the stroker, I'd wait until Roger has the sure-thing available. JMHO.
EDIT: Ha Ha, did I just get caught up in double negative here?
05-24-2010, 04:59 PM
#14
Drifting
What's the availability of just the new pump for now? It's not a limited production run? How soon can you get these after your stock is depleted?
05-24-2010, 05:06 PM
#15
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Borland,
I have 10 in stock with 4 available.
All Laso pumps will be to this standard - I just got the first batch.
There are still some metal impeller WP out there.
Using a new Laso as a base we are looking at about $650 to $700.
I need to talk to Ed about availability.
Roger
I have 10 in stock with 4 available.
All Laso pumps will be to this standard - I just got the first batch.
There are still some metal impeller WP out there.
Using a new Laso as a base we are looking at about $650 to $700.
I need to talk to Ed about availability.
Roger