IrishLegend

Mine need replacing and was wondering how difficult it is. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,

robot808

I dont have a write-up, but it is really straightforward.

IIRC, you just seperate the outside tie rod end and remove it (noting the the postion of the TRE on the tie rods threads). Then slip the boot over the rod until it is in place, and put it back together.

Make sure that you get the TRE back in the same place so you don't need an alignment. Be careful not to tear the boot on the tie rod end.
As far as I remember, it was that easy.

SeanR

This is the hard way to do it.

SeanR

Pop the tie rod ends off the wheel hub, unscrew them (try to count how many turns you made to take it off) cut the old boots off, slide new boots on, put tie rod ends back on (same amount of turns) and hope the alignment is the same. Not really hard, but it will have you cussing.

GlenL

Or...

Separate the tie rod studs from the steering knuckles. With some effort you can work the boot over the stud end all the way onto the rack. The fit at the rack and over the big end of the ball-joint is tight. Nurse it with a thin screwdriver and it'll go.

By taking it apart at the studs you don't have any worries about changing the alignment.

Yes, I expect you'll be using strong language.

Landseer

Use SilGlide or silicon dielectric grease as a lube and its pretty easy to slip the boots over the outer tie rod ends and bump stop.

The key is maintaining or achieving cleanliness of the rack shaft. Keeping out dirt / sand is important.

jleidel

i really need to do this one of these days....

soontobered84

i do it like Glen L. does it. It's not that hard and there are no alignment issues later.

jpitman2

My 83 has tie rods with a large diameter washer (~1.5", 3/8 thick) on them...I found at a local auto parts place a generic boot kit, where there were steps in dia at each end - you just cut bits off until you have a step the right size for your needs. Because of the large dia washer thing on the rod, (after disconnecting the end from the steering arm) the I was able to get the new boot OVER the tie rod end without having to disturb its setting - re-alignment not needed. The kit came with cable ties to close off each end once in place. No leaks in several years now. See the type of thing here..
http://www.eziautoparts.com.au/kelpr...t-srb-000.html

hth
jp 83 Euro S AT 52k

j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net

Cursing is essential here. It seems so easy. Also I was told the best way to put the TRE back to the same position is by putting a laser pointer on the wheel and returning it to the pre-removal point after re-installation of TRE. There are plenty of cheap suction cup mounted laser thingees

Stromius

You'll need a 22 and 32mm wrenches or crows foot socket wrenches to turn and counterhold. I'm going to try the inner tie rod connection so I won't have to worry about alignment hopefully. The stop can be tapped enough on the rod to get both the wrench on the joint. SAE 7/8 and 1 1/4 will also work. I read somewhere a single serve yogurt tub (like Yoplait) with the bottom cut and lubed with some grease can help ease the new boots over the stops.

Bill Ball

I usually do it Glen's way as well. It's just a bit of a work to get it over the balljoint, but it's doable and lube help as mentioned. Then working the lip onto the end of the rack takes some effort. I use 2 big pliers to grip the boot and pull it over the rack end.

SharkSkin

Good advice above... I'll add one more nugget: If this is your first time doing this, get three boots in case you discover the elastic limit of the rubber the hard way. They are cheap and this gives you better odds of being able to finish the job in one session.

IrishLegend

Thanks.

Mrmerlin

+another note if you turn the wheel all the way to full lock then the inner tie rod end will act as a guide to enable you to slide the inner boot edge onto its groove on the rack housing,
a little spray of WD 40 on the rack will let the boot slide on