COLD AIR INTAKE NEXT LEVEL OF PERFORMANCE?
11-13-2010, 07:53 PM
#106
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One minor issue.......
There goes the reliability
Im just getting my feet wet with this hobby after being out for years. The technology in EDF...electric motors...speed controls etc is amazing.
There goes the reliability
Im just getting my feet wet with this hobby after being out for years. The technology in EDF...electric motors...speed controls etc is amazing.
Light Weight 11S/4Kw setup
Only $439 ready to install!
When Xtreme Power Systems set out to find a fan system that could meet our extreme needs, we discovered that the Dynamax fan was the best choice. This fan system was originally powered by a OS.91 glow engine. We have converted this fan system to electric, using a quality motor made by Hacker. This configuration is a lightweight version of our successful original version.
Thousands of planes were built and flown on glow ducted fans. Most of these planes were just simply retired because glow engines were always difficult to keep running in these setups. Now, these planes can be brought back to life using a fan system that not only provides more power on a 10S setup than the OS.91 could, but also with the added benefit of it sounding like a turbine instead of a "hair dryer". Breathe new life into that old model!
Only $439 ready to install!
When Xtreme Power Systems set out to find a fan system that could meet our extreme needs, we discovered that the Dynamax fan was the best choice. This fan system was originally powered by a OS.91 glow engine. We have converted this fan system to electric, using a quality motor made by Hacker. This configuration is a lightweight version of our successful original version.
Thousands of planes were built and flown on glow ducted fans. Most of these planes were just simply retired because glow engines were always difficult to keep running in these setups. Now, these planes can be brought back to life using a fan system that not only provides more power on a 10S setup than the OS.91 could, but also with the added benefit of it sounding like a turbine instead of a "hair dryer". Breathe new life into that old model!
11-14-2010, 01:44 PM
#107
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we have been using 60-100 amps on little 14lb batteries for years without any issues. the use is so intermittant, that it is no problem for the battery or charging system. using 4 batteries in series, gives 48 volts, and at the same load per battery, thats 5000watts . of course now, its a separate battery array. (we have worked out a charging system that lives in the car)
at 100amps, a 14amp hour battery will last about 10min. more than enough to power a bunch of passes at the drag strip, or 50% WOT at the race track for a 30min race. It willl be on my race car eventually.
at 100amps, a 14amp hour battery will last about 10min. more than enough to power a bunch of passes at the drag strip, or 50% WOT at the race track for a 30min race. It willl be on my race car eventually.
475hp/460lb.ft
11-28-2010, 11:38 PM
#108
Burning Brakes
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we have been using 60-100 amps on little 14lb batteries for years without any issues. the use is so intermittant, that it is no problem for the battery or charging system. using 4 batteries in series, gives 48 volts, and at the same load per battery, thats 5000watts . of course now, its a separate battery array. (we have worked out a charging system that lives in the car)
at 100amps, a 14amp hour battery will last about 10min. more than enough to power a bunch of passes at the drag strip, or 50% WOT at the race track for a 30min race. It willl be on my race car eventually.
at 100amps, a 14amp hour battery will last about 10min. more than enough to power a bunch of passes at the drag strip, or 50% WOT at the race track for a 30min race. It willl be on my race car eventually.
If I get enough time to do this and it works out then hopefully you can get these going for the rest of the guys who need them on the 928's.
Whats best to try out for fans?
1)Fans along the valve cover area and filters after the fans on the back firewall area?If anything happens to the fan they would catch parts.
Down side fans are further away from MAF but pushing air thru filters not sure if that is better or worse.If before the filters is worse could always use larger MM fans to compensate?
Up side room for increased fans of 120mm along the sides by valve covers
If filters are rated for 575cfm each side then can they flow more under pressure if fans are pushing into the filters?There are some guys who have their own test flow benches on filters wondered whats best or if there isn't any difference?
2)Fans outback along the firewall but extra MAF screens after each fan unit.
4inch will fit outback with the air system I have now and maybe 5inch will if my updated system works out.
So what would flow more air drawn thru the filters with the fans after the filters figure (2)
or fans pushing thru the filters figure (1).When putting the filters into the 4 to 3 1/2 inch reducer right before the Y pipe it holds the filter inplace so it can't fall out of place even if the tube isn't flush against it.
Last edited by inactiveuser1; 05-06-2013 at 12:25 AM.
11-29-2010, 02:09 AM
#110
Burning Brakes
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11-29-2010, 02:58 AM
#111
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15 years of testing has shown that the fans before the filter works best, in this configuration, however, if the cone filter is just off the eRAM, that works best, but then you can have turbulent air hiiting the MAF which can get confused, unless it is generally further down stream. some of the best results we have recorded has been just pressurizing a stock air box. (i.e. eRAM on inlet to air box and air box sealed.)
lots of variables, but addiing pressure absolutely, positively works. How much is the ONLY question.
lots of variables, but addiing pressure absolutely, positively works. How much is the ONLY question.
Mark,
If I get enough time to do this and it works out then hopefully you can get these going for the rest of the guys who need them on the 928's.
Whats best to try out for fans?
1)Fans along the valve cover area and filters after the fans on the back firewall area?If anything happens to the fan they would catch parts.
Down side fans are further away from MAF but pushing air thru filters not sure if that is better or worse.If before the filters is worse could always use larger MM fans to compensate?
Up side room for increased fans of 120mm along the sides by valve covers
If filters are rated for 575cfm each side then can they flow more under pressure if fans are pushing into the filters?There are some guys who have their own test flow benches on filters wondered whats best or if there isn't any difference?
2)Fans outback along the firewall but extra MAF screens after each fan unit.
4inch will fit outback with the air system I have now and maybe 5inch will if my updated system works out.
So what would flow more air drawn thru the filters with the fans after the filters figure (2)
or fans pushing thru the filters figure (1).When putting the filters into the 4 to 3 1/2 inch reducer right before the Y pipe it holds the filter inplace so it can't fall out of place even if the tube isn't flush against it.
If I get enough time to do this and it works out then hopefully you can get these going for the rest of the guys who need them on the 928's.
Whats best to try out for fans?
1)Fans along the valve cover area and filters after the fans on the back firewall area?If anything happens to the fan they would catch parts.
Down side fans are further away from MAF but pushing air thru filters not sure if that is better or worse.If before the filters is worse could always use larger MM fans to compensate?
Up side room for increased fans of 120mm along the sides by valve covers
If filters are rated for 575cfm each side then can they flow more under pressure if fans are pushing into the filters?There are some guys who have their own test flow benches on filters wondered whats best or if there isn't any difference?
2)Fans outback along the firewall but extra MAF screens after each fan unit.
4inch will fit outback with the air system I have now and maybe 5inch will if my updated system works out.
So what would flow more air drawn thru the filters with the fans after the filters figure (2)
or fans pushing thru the filters figure (1).When putting the filters into the 4 to 3 1/2 inch reducer right before the Y pipe it holds the filter inplace so it can't fall out of place even if the tube isn't flush against it.
11-29-2010, 04:49 AM
#112
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Honeycomb cells
I'm planning to use the following honeycomb cells and remove the original MAF
screens, with my dual intake project.
The original screens are too restrictive and won't really help to straighten the
air flow as well as honeycomb cells(IMHO). I do believe, one cell on top of
MAF will be enough...
http://www.saxonpc.com/100mm-cells-for-100.html
screens, with my dual intake project.
The original screens are too restrictive and won't really help to straighten the
air flow as well as honeycomb cells(IMHO). I do believe, one cell on top of
MAF will be enough...
http://www.saxonpc.com/100mm-cells-for-100.html
11-29-2010, 01:14 PM
#113
Rennlist Member
honeycomb cells and screens are equally restrictive and are not needed, unless you dont have an air filter. the only one that is somewhat useful, is the SCREEN on the backside (normally the MAF has two screens) I bet much of the gains I had with the holbert car were due to the screen removed. (I only had one, but of course, none now) any 928 that has made a decent amount of power like anderson, fan, myself and many others, dont use screens. did you know when the Harrier Jump Jet had screens to keep people from being sucked in the inlets, the jet couldnt even take off? lose the screens if you care about power. you dont need to "straighten the flow". anderson and Fan use 4" PVC pipe and the sensor is offset using its stock holder from the stock maf tube. they have great fuel to air ratios top to bottom.
one of these days, Ill do the KN filter vs stock filter (sealed air box, is key) and the screens on and off the maf. Until then, common sense will prevail!
mk
one of these days, Ill do the KN filter vs stock filter (sealed air box, is key) and the screens on and off the maf. Until then, common sense will prevail!
mk
I'm planning to use the following honeycomb cells and remove the original MAF
screens, with my dual intake project.
The original screens are too restrictive and won't really help to straighten the
air flow as well as honeycomb cells(IMHO). I do believe, one cell on top of
MAF will be enough...
http://www.saxonpc.com/100mm-cells-for-100.html
screens, with my dual intake project.
The original screens are too restrictive and won't really help to straighten the
air flow as well as honeycomb cells(IMHO). I do believe, one cell on top of
MAF will be enough...
http://www.saxonpc.com/100mm-cells-for-100.html
11-29-2010, 01:28 PM
#114
Rennlist Member
The stright flow needs, are more for the Karmen Vortex style AFMs..not hotwire.
Pull the honeycomb off any of my old Supras..and they immediately idle like crap, and drop 3-4mpg.
Just my experience...never had a problem with the vette or Fbody car with just a hotwire.
Pull the honeycomb off any of my old Supras..and they immediately idle like crap, and drop 3-4mpg.
Just my experience...never had a problem with the vette or Fbody car with just a hotwire.
11-29-2010, 01:54 PM
#115
Rennlist Member
not one race car ive seen, with hot wire has anything around it. why do you think that is? you cant compare a supra with a 928,but then, you knew this already, right? 
"straigthflow " needs are for anyone that wants to reduce restriction. straightflow vs honeycomb vs screen = pressure drop. pressure drop = HP loss to some extent.
I would love to think i would get 3 more MPG on top of my 22mpg on the way to laguna seca last race just by adding back in the screens. 25mph would be great!
"straigthflow " needs are for anyone that wants to reduce restriction. straightflow vs honeycomb vs screen = pressure drop. pressure drop = HP loss to some extent.
I would love to think i would get 3 more MPG on top of my 22mpg on the way to laguna seca last race just by adding back in the screens. 25mph would be great!
11-29-2010, 02:07 PM
#117
Rennlist Member
im sure there are some race cars with the honeycomb too. I bet the cup cars still have them. im also sure that the gains are not going to be earth shattering for removing them, and that there could be trade offs with idle stability, mixture control too. for how I use the car, it seemed to work just fine and there are probably some gains by having them gone too. how much, we may never know.
I bet the cup cars still have them. im also sure that the gains are not going to be earth shattering for removing them, and that there could be trade offs with idle stability, mixture control too. for how I use the car, it seemed to work just fine and there are probably some gains by having them gone too. how much, we may never know.
12-01-2010, 07:58 PM
#118
Burning Brakes
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15 years of testing has shown that the fans before the filter works best, in this configuration, however, if the cone filter is just off the eRAM, that works best, but then you can have turbulent air hiiting the MAF which can get confused, unless it is generally further down stream. some of the best results we have recorded has been just pressurizing a stock air box. (i.e. eRAM on inlet to air box and air box sealed.)
lots of variables, but addiing pressure absolutely, positively works. How much is the ONLY question.
lots of variables, but addiing pressure absolutely, positively works. How much is the ONLY question.
Thanks for the answer will try to setup it up the same(inlets will be in the same location as the stock airbox) but into the tube setup.Will different tube size outback (firewall area)make the difference in pressure?That may be something that has to be tried after its setup.Filters will be close right after the elbows.Might have a way to get the cone filters out back ok without them extending into the elbows.
12-03-2010, 07:38 PM
#119
Burning Brakes
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15 years of testing has shown that the fans before the filter works best, in this configuration, however, if the cone filter is just off the eRAM, that works best, but then you can have turbulent air hiiting the MAF which can get confused, unless it is generally further down stream. some of the best results we have recorded has been just pressurizing a stock air box. (i.e. eRAM on inlet to air box and air box sealed.)
lots of variables, but addiing pressure absolutely, positively works. How much is the ONLY question.
lots of variables, but addiing pressure absolutely, positively works. How much is the ONLY question.
Top picture shows 5inch tubing will fit if needed.
Middle picture is the maching up new tail section where could put 100mm fans.
Lower picture is the Y pipe with even more increased angle,top pictures is the 5inch pipes may go with 4 inch or 4 1/2 if there are different filters available.
The center picture with aluminum elbows will be changed to shorter rubber elbows that will allow the adlater to be back about 3 inches.
Last edited by inactiveuser1; 05-06-2013 at 12:25 AM.
12-03-2010, 08:29 PM
#120
Rennlist Member
I would still go down in diameter, as pressure will go up and thats what you want to increase power.
We have a version now, that is dc brushless as well that uses the same motor as the larger 4.5" version.
the 3.5"version makes 1psi static, the 4.5" version is less than .5psi. (at 1000watts) now, this is not the same as the dynamic pressure it will make when under WOT, and its in the air stream, but its a good indiction. all thses types of axial flow devices follow a pressure vs flow curve (graph) its always better for the same power, to have a smaller diamater. the reason we have two sizes, is that the larger one works with high displacement engines and the lsmaller one works with smaller displacement engines. there are more gains % wise with the smaller displacement version, but more loses in the intake, generally that the larger version helps with. in the end, the power gains are still better with the smaller version on the smaller engines, vs the larger engine version, but the difference is not as much as the pressure differences would indicate.
We have a version now, that is dc brushless as well that uses the same motor as the larger 4.5" version.
the 3.5"version makes 1psi static, the 4.5" version is less than .5psi. (at 1000watts) now, this is not the same as the dynamic pressure it will make when under WOT, and its in the air stream, but its a good indiction. all thses types of axial flow devices follow a pressure vs flow curve (graph) its always better for the same power, to have a smaller diamater. the reason we have two sizes, is that the larger one works with high displacement engines and the lsmaller one works with smaller displacement engines. there are more gains % wise with the smaller displacement version, but more loses in the intake, generally that the larger version helps with. in the end, the power gains are still better with the smaller version on the smaller engines, vs the larger engine version, but the difference is not as much as the pressure differences would indicate.