Dean_Fuller

I only had 2 qts. With the siphon feed gun I think I have more overspay than I expect when I shoot color with a LPHV gun. I still have to shoot the deck which is not done yet. Thats a great idea on the diff color primer. Will do.

Do you think I messed up shooting at a higher psi??? I will turn pressure down tomorrow to the 45 PSI as per the tect sheet.

JHowell37

The siphon gun won't be a problem.

Here's the link to the Nason Catalog from the DuPont site.

http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/...uct/nason.html

Nason is a lower priced brand, but that doesn't really mean that it's cheap or low quality.

Earl, the old man who rebuilt the GT that got StrekStrekStrekStreked up used Nason and did a first rate job.

The only thing I've heard about the lower priced paints is that they tend to not cover as well. This is because they contain a lower percentage of solids and more solvent. All it means to you is that you'll probably need 3 coats of color.

The one thing I noticed is that Nason doesn't have any info for plastic refinishing. This is probably because the majority of people who are using their products don't want the extra costs associated with refinishing plastics, and most people who want a budget paint job probably don't have long-term plans to keep the car.

JHowell37

the pressure shouldn't be a problem, but you should turn it back to where it's supposed to be. And that's the pressure with the trigger squeezed btw.

Dean_Fuller

Crap...I did not know that. Thanks. I was probably not far off then.

Dean_Fuller

5-22-10

Resprayed the rear deck. I'm glad I did. I stripped what I applied a couple days ago. After a much better wipe down the epoxy went on very nicely. The inside will not even need 2k primer...the out side will. Here is the epoxy primer compared to the before photos. I used a wire wheel, SEM Rust-MORT over and over then cleaned and sprayed. The deck is saved I think.

black944er

I'm looking so much forward to see the final product! This is such a nice job you do there!

Iwanna928

Keep going Dean! Can't wait for pic's!

Dean_Fuller

5-23-10

After a light guide coat, I started block sanding the roof. I started with 400 grit wet then 600 wet. Not sure if it looks right. Feels fine except the on place I had trash in the primer. ( See Pics ) How do I fix that?

Also a much darker area is seen in some pics. Alot of this sanded out except where shown. I THINK it may be the epoxy I sprayed first. Is this going to be an issue??? Does it look like I may need to sand with say 220 then re prime the whole car then sand again with 600?

Thanks

pcar928fan

I know nothing about paint, but this labor of love is worth a fortune in my eyes!! Great work Dean!

Dean_Fuller

Okay...after thinking about this I think this is what I will do.

First. When I removed the old paint I used a DA Sander. I only BLOCKED the areas that got body filler which means the rest of the car was never blocked and really can't be dead flat after a DA sanding...so I think for this to be right I need to BLOCK the whole car with 180 or 220...then re prime and block with 400 and 600. Does that sound feasible?

pcar928fan

Dean, again I have never painted a car before, but if you want it to be RIGHT (and it is PAINFULLY obvious that you do as the work you are putting in to this goes to the extreme) then what you outline above sounds right to me... Fill that bad place (or maybe a fill primer would even work) then block sand it down till it is totally flat, like brand new panels from the factory would be!

JHowell37

No, you don't need to start over. The hi-build primer is what makes the surface dead flat. Think of it as a thin layer of body filler.

You can add more high build and block again. On that spot where you had some trash, make sure you get it wet with primer. You may have to lightly sand with 320 to make it coarse enough for extra primer. But you don't have to start over.

What are you using for a sanding block? Are you changing directions constantly? What are you using to clean the surface prior to applying primer?

Dean_Fuller

Not really starting over...more like adding a step.

I am wiping down with lac. thinner. I'm still using paint sticks as the shop is out of durablocks. They MIGHT have some this week. ( remember one horse town )

I just blocked the rear quarters, roof and hatch with 120 then 220. It was flatter than I thought. I feel it is really flat now which is good. I sanded that bad place right out with that paper. Very easy to sand and the paper doesn't load up on me like the 400 was doing. I have some steel showing again. I assume I can just shoot that with more epoxy??? I wonder if I could just keep sanding with 400 then 600 and hope I don't run out of primer on the car?

I am sanding in a X pattern...not one direction.

I will say this....the net is a great tool BUT for every "this is how you do it" there's as many "no...THIS is" responses. I appreciate JHowell and others that have done this before. I'll get there I guess. I just don't want to spend this much time and effort on a paint job he could of gotten at " Bob's Paint Palace" for $400.

Dean_Fuller

Photos added. After using 120 then 220 the finish is a consistent color and texture with the exception of the areas in the pics. There is NO small discolorations anymore...those have been sanded out.

Dean_Fuller

Is it even possible to get the sanding marks out of primer??? This is after 600 grit. If feels like glass but its not hard to see sanding marks.