Tempermental

Well it's a brave new world -and a little cleaner too



After some scrubbing, and an all nighter, I installed new gas lines, all new vacuum lines, new intake gaskets and a distributor cap

At around 5:45 am, jumpered fuel pump and noticed a small leak, tightened, waited and jumpered again -no leaks ...
Started the car -well it'll fire up but it runs horribly and won't stay running for more than 2 or 3 secs
--I think it's a huge vac leak at the AFM
removing electrical plug to AFM will make it run horribly for maybe 4 -5 secs

There were no starting issues prior to the refresh

How is the AFM supposed to be mounted ? On my car, gravity, orange silicon and an orange oring covered in silicon held it place,
well the airbox screws also but is that it?--taking off the electrical connection, the AFM fell into my hands


Seems to me that there are 3 mounting points - am I missing a bracket?
There is an big black o ring where the AFM plugs/goes into (seems ok) but I also have an orange o ring that I suspect isn't stock.

The date code on the bottom of my AFM says 78 - there is only one model of these right? OR did one of the PO's
get really clever and mount a 78 AFM into an 82 with silicon?

Thanks!

Fabio421

There was no AFM in 78. There is supposed to be an oring in the U that the AFM fits into. The AFM is held in place by the airbox. It bolts to the airbox and the airbox is bolted to the two rubber mounts.

Tempermental

Thanks Fabio421 -that clears up a MY mismatch and my missing bracket question.

The big o ring is in there but I bet the orange silicon and the extra exterior orange o ring were used because a PO didn't want to wait for a replacement o ring (and now it probably needs replacement)

Surprised the only mounting is the airbox -my o ring must be really shot.

Any takers on a big vac leak at the AFM causing my stall / roughness?

robot808

I am GUESSING (I am one of the low men on the totem pole here in automotive knowledge), that is not your problem. You worked on all three things that you need for combustion (air, gas, ignition). I would start with the easy stuff and re-check the distibutor.
I am only guessing that it's not the AFM because my 82 and yours both had that same kind of easy going sort of a take on seals, my runs fine (knock on wood) and yours probably did too.

Andrew Schauer

My 1980 also had the wrong o-ring for the AFM connection when I bought it. The correct one holds the AFM in place fairly well on its own, considerably tighter than what you probably have now.
Also, check your airbox mounting studs closely, the rubber portion of mine had been forced out of position for so long, they held the airbox and AFM almost 1/2" away from where they belonged. Once I replaced the airbox mounting studs, everything lined up correctly and seals great.

Fabio421

You should be able to easily check to see if its sucking air past the AFM by holding it firmly in place while the car is idling. If the idle improves then that may be your problem. If not, then look elsewhere.

Tempermental

>>Robot808
Yeah it was working fine but, after removing everything,
I was mightly surprised to have this kinda heavy thing
(AFM) fall backwards into my now clean V -just by
wiggling the electrical connector

>>Andrew Schauer
My o ring seal will be replaced -the rubber studs are
slightly distorted but everything matches up (or did)

>>Fabio421
I wish I could get to idle --beginning to imagine very bad things

It will now start, immediatley rev to 2,000 then die with a cough/hiccup
I can smell gas slightly

My temp II sensor housing crumbled as I touched it -still will plug in -barely
No change plugged in or not - start/rev/die

The problems are just beginning as I suspected perhaps an injection relay
-wiggled it and oops sparks --removed it and one leg is
blackened and very loose -thinks its 85 leg? top of the relay

So the fuel injection relay is jumpered 30/87/87 with a Y (landseers link to Jack ritters 2002 thread posted earlier today)

I'm thinking maybe green wire as I loosened the distributor bolt and lifted it a weee bit to get that last air intake bolt in

another fricking weekend shot waiting for parts

robot808

Tempermental,
I think Fabio is suggesting that if you hold it snugly in place, you should have a good idea if that's your problem. If you can't keep it running, perhaps hold it on while a helper starts it for you. At least rule that out.
I still don't think that is the issue, but again, I am an idiot.
Looks like you are starting to suspect electrical. That may not be a bad thing. Maybe it will be an easy fix. I hope it will be.

mark kibort

no change in idle, temp II plugged in or not???? there is your problem!

wire a resistor accross it I think 300ohms will do it

mk

Tempermental

Wired 300ohms no improvement

engine catches and dies -I'm pretty sure I can hear the barn door banging

Landseer

Be sure to pull that jumper out before you walk away for the night.

Tempermental

>>Landseer -I left the jumper in all last night and today - just pulled it as I'm done tonight

>>MK you genius -the 300ohm jumper kindof works

I pulled the electrical connection to the AFM and with the tempII jumpered it'll idle

Not a smooth idle and it seems to blow rich black/gray smoke

If I plug the AFM back in while idling -the rpms will jump and it'll want to die

Can't give it gas as it'll want to die - I also hear a whine (maybe the top of the intake to butterfly area -bare with me, been sucking exhaust for 1/2hr) Its the big 3 inch rubber connecting ring -maybe or some leak around the AFM- will test tomorrow --pulled the tempII jumper and she died

I had the injectors cleaned



Seemed like a good idea... baseline/ WYAIT /28 years old etc etc