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Old 01-31-2010, 10:31 PM
  #76  
Earl Gillstrom
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I use a lot of GO5 and bought the last two jugs in my local NAPA a few weeks ago.

I stopped by the same store a few days ago and they had a large new stock of GO5 for <$12.

So, I guess it depends on the store.
Old 01-31-2010, 10:42 PM
  #77  
JWise
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Originally Posted by Glenn M
I will never use Dexcool! My 2001 GM minivan (80k miles) blew a head gasket due to corrosion caused by Dexcool. I had the heads skimmed, you should have seen how this stuff was jelled in the block. Of course the 3.4L motors are also notorious for intake leaks thank you very much. I had that replaces the summer before.

There is a big lawsuit with owners and GM/Dexcool. I missed out on the timeframe.

I would rather work on my 928 then that GM monkey puzzel!

I have a friend that replaces the Dexcool right after he buys the new car.

Cheers
Big +1. Saw this years ago in a Pontiac Montana minivan that was only about 3 years old at the time. Took off the coolant cap and could barely see into the radiator it was so gunked up. Dexcool will never see the radiators in any of my cars.

I'm running Zerex G-05 that I pick up at my local Valvoline service center. About $15 bucks a jug. Here's what the front and back look like, and note the Porsche model year applications on the back:
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Old 04-16-2010, 01:29 PM
  #78  
aaddpp
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Default Oil Grade & 928

I did a search for the type of oil grade that is best to use with my type of driving conditions but I seem to have come up short.

I expect that most of the time, it will be between 60 and 95 Fahrenheit. I doubt I will drive much (if at all) during the winter due to the accumulation of salt residue on the road here in the Northeast during the winter. Even still, the car will be parked in a garage that will be about 50 degrees.

Any thoughts on what grade / oil weight to use?

Thanks,
Dave
Old 04-16-2010, 02:31 PM
  #79  
nsantolick
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I bought two gallons of the Mercedes stuff from a factory dealer. Even the parts guy was a bit shocked. Can't remember exactly, but I recall it being like around $35.00 a gallon. Is there a cheaper place for the real Mercedes stuff? (Same bottle as Hacker Pshorr's pix)

Anyone do citric acid flushes first? That was my plan when I switch radiators and refill.

Also, what's the BEST ratio for this coolant? I'm in the Poconos and will use the car year round. Seen a lot of opinions on the ratios.








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Old 07-07-2012, 01:36 PM
  #80  
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Default DEX-Cool in a 928 - don't

I was traveling cross country (San Francisco to Tampa Fl). 1987 928S4 developed a small leak in one of the auxiliary (not the radiator hoses) coolant hoses. Had the hose replaced at some shop in Flagstaff AZ and they "added" DEX-COOL and a bottle of water wetter. They appearently did not drain and flush the remaining coolant from the engine. I went on my way. Three to four months later, the car coolant temperature started to climb above normal. Took the car to Reeves Porsche in Tampa. There was a nice size orangy color jelly pad over the water pump blocking the water flow. The mechanic said it was the DEX-COOL reaction to the remaining Porsche coolant. So, new water pump, new timing belt and oil tensioner, and of course new Porsche coolant. Luckily no other damage.
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Old 07-07-2012, 09:45 PM
  #81  
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So green stuff is bad..... ?
Old 07-09-2012, 11:36 AM
  #82  
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No, green stuff is not bad. The lesson here is to never ever mix dexcool with conventional coolant. If you want to use dexcool (I wouldn't), you must thoroughly flush all the old coolant out of the system. There is no reason to use dexcool though, when you can put in Zerex G-05 instead.

Dan
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Old 07-09-2012, 01:55 PM
  #83  
Bill Ball
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Porsche used green stuff at the factory. I've used it with no problem.
Old 07-11-2012, 10:10 PM
  #84  
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Well, OK, I believe everyone on this thread. Every Dex-Cool issue seems to have an explanation.
I am willing to change, but my 87S4 has been running Dex-Cool and distilled water, nothing else for years from 94,000 miles. Now has 152,000 miles. Radiator was squeaky clean when replaced due to classic end cap leak with an AL from Carl. WPs have been clean when belts have been replaced. Still no issues at all to date. Coolant is clear and does not overheat at all with A/C on full at idle through 3 light changes. Love the ATL traffic-NOT. We have had 105+ temps in ATL the last few weeks,
Why should I change from something that seems to be working?
Is there really an inherent issue with Dex-Cool?
Dave

Last edited by outbackgeorgia; 07-11-2012 at 10:11 PM. Reason: Punctuation
Old 07-11-2012, 10:13 PM
  #85  
outbackgeorgia
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Also,
If I change, would I risk having some residual Dex-Cool mix with the G05?
Old 07-11-2012, 10:49 PM
  #86  
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There are two problems I have with Dexcool:

1) If it is mixed with conventional coolant, it will form a gel that blocks coolant passages
2) If it is left exposed to air for extended periods, it forms orange crust that blocks coolant passages

Neither of these two things are good for the cooling system. If your Dexcool system is working well for years, I would not mess with it. Just make sure you fix coolant leaks promptly and you should be fine. If you wanted to switch away from Dexcool, you would need to flush multiple times in order to be sure all of it was removed from the system.

Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
Old 07-11-2012, 11:06 PM
  #87  
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I use the Porsche Factory Coolant, in all my 928 engines. (000 043 301 05) Stupid expensive. Stupid Expensive!

However I've seen all the "eaten" up heads, blocks, and head gaskets that I ever need to see (actually have seen way too many) and I'm not going to try and save a few bucks on coolant.

I figure that if Porsche pours it into their new cars, without any reference to ever needing to "service" it, it should work good enough for me and my customers.

And I know that I will never have to call a bunch of customers and tell them that they need to come in and have their coolant changed, because I used the "wrong" stuff.

Besides that, $20 extra in 50,000 miles works out to be how much per mile?

BTW....The last time I needed a "core" OB engine, I took 5 of them apart before I found one that had a block and heads that were not completely junk....
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Old 07-12-2012, 02:39 AM
  #88  
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Stopped at 928 Intl last week for some suspension clinic bits. Mark showed an assembled rear suspension to let us point to parts (washers) that we needed. From the same example car, the engine looked like someone had been making a battery out of the engine. Every metal bit that coolant had touched looked like it had been dipped in ocean water for a few years. Lots of metal was just gone, sacrificed to Rudy Galvani's personal gods in some satanic ritual. Or the coolant had never been maintained.

I swapped Dex-Cool into a cast-iron-engined previous car, and within six months the heads were off for new gaskets to solve external headgasket leaks. Did all the flushing and such, used distilled water with the Dex-Cool on fill, and still had the gaskets give way. Will the 928 ever get Dex-Cool? Not while I own it. Annual coolant swaps with G-05 are what it sees, with a splash of Water Wetter for good measure. No worries with that so far.
Old 07-12-2012, 11:33 AM
  #89  
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Originally Posted by aaddpp
I did a search for the type of oil grade that is best to use with my type of driving conditions but I seem to have come up short.

I expect that most of the time, it will be between 60 and 95 Fahrenheit. I doubt I will drive much (if at all) during the winter due to the accumulation of salt residue on the road here in the Northeast during the winter. Even still, the car will be parked in a garage that will be about 50 degrees.

Any thoughts on what grade / oil weight to use?

Thanks,
Dave
Don't think anyone wants to open the can of worms in an anti-Freez thread

Do a search and you will get a boat load of suggestions

Last edited by davek9; 07-12-2012 at 11:58 AM.
Old 07-12-2012, 12:07 PM
  #90  
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I can't find this one. I use RO water because I have a huge Low Silicon RO system at home. This has to be good water for the system doesn't it?


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