Nicholbry

There's a fair amount of info re: replacing oil cooler lines on the '87/'88/etc., but my oil cooler is separate from the radiator and I couldn't find anything related to replacing the O-rings on the cooler @ the lines.

A couple months back I fought with my C&R aftermarket radiator & fan shroud to get them to allow the hood to close properly. I suspect that my oil cooler line connections may have suffered from all the movement in the process while the cooler was temporarily unbolted from the frame. It appears to now be leaking here.

As best I can tell, there are two lines going into the driver's side end of the oil cooler with a metal plate over the them where they go into the cooler. This metal plate is seemingly attached via a center-mounted bolt only.

First off....am I correct about the design?

I'm suspecting the O-ring needs replacing, but I'm not sure. Is it as simple as:
removing the single bolt to the metal plate > pulling back the metal plate and exposing the hose-to-cooler union > pulling out on the lines to disengage them from the cooler > replacing the O-rings > pushing the hoses back into the tank union > remounting the plate with the bolt?
Or, (as I suspect) more to the project?

Any help would be appreciated. Please note that I'm not as mechanically savvy as many of you; so I'm likely to require a more detailed description.....sorry.

BTW, I looked at the PET, but it wasn't altogether clear either as the oil cooler is expressed on one page and the lubrication system with lines on another.

I know pics help you guys to help me, so I've included one (blurry), with a rough sketch of the details missing in the photo. The lines have been wiped clean, along with the bottom portion of the "metal plate". There may be more detail to the upper portion of the plate that I cannot see due to cosmoline/dirt.

Thanks again for any help.

Rob Edwards

Nicholas-

Your description and expectation of what you have to do is exactly right. Those o-rings (900 331 022 40) are damned expensive (>$5 each...) for what they are, aren't they? The job is a simple one, but messy.

Actually, if you could do me a favor- while you have the lines disconnected, could you measure the length (in mm) of the threaded portion of the socket cap screw that holds the lines to the cooler, that would be great. PET doesn't list a length and mine is disassembled right now. I have a big bucket of bolts and don't know what size to use there.


This is what the cooler lines look like naked:



and:

jeff spahn

So that's what Greg replaced on my car when I did the PPI and he said the oil cooler was leaking a tiny bit!

Calgary Ole

I have had mine off a couple times with no problems. It is just as you assumed with simple O rings.
Rob... the cap screw has a washer attatched and is 26 mm to the head with 21mm of thread, overall about 34mm including the allen head

Rob Edwards

Sweet, thanks!

Calgary Ole

Let me know if you guys need pictures as it is sitting on my bench. It
sounds like you allready have it figured out though.

Nicholbry

AWESOME GUYS....thanks Rob for those excellent pics. I really, really appreciate all the help. I was fearful the fix was going to be more complicated.....and still may be for me (that's how it always goes).

And, yes, indeed at $5 per (plus shipping/handling) that's insane.

Rob, was that the item that Calgary gave you dimensions for that you needed measured? I'm assuming that when you say "socket cap screw" you are referring to the center bolt holding on the plate (circled in red)?

You guys were quick....and the best.

Gonna order those o-rings I suppose and hope for a warmer day (temps in the teens, windy, and sleet).

Nicholbry

BTW, do I just need 2 of these o-rings (one per line where it meets the cooler)?

Rob Edwards

Si, senor.

GregBBRD

Yes, replaced the cooler that the oil lines are going to.

GregBBRD

These oil lines are rebuilt lines available through 928 International or J2 Precision Hose, BTW.

jeff spahn

That's cool. Haven't been under car yet to look at that area. Doing MM's, PKlamp and fuel pressure gauge next weekend and wondered where to look.

Love these things! Gonna do a custom injector harness like Ben did on his too sometime this year as well. Don't need old wonky wires getting crispy on me and causing no starts.

ROG100

We have rebuild coolers for $250 which is better than the $500 for new.
Core charge of $100.

GregBBRD

If they have been pressure tested and ultrasonically cleaned, that's a good deal!

If they are just used, that's a very bad idea. The "rule of thumb" used by professional engine people, is to never use a cooler that you don't personally know the history of and which has not been ultrasonically cleaned. However, if they get ultrasonically cleaned by an aircraft certified cleaner, they should be fine.

The problem is, if you happen to get a used cooler from an engine that had some sort of internal issue (like the common thrust bearing failure or rod bearing failure), a used uncleaned cooler could turn your good engine into trash from all the debris packed into the used cooler.

Calgary Ole

Here is a picture of my connection....Rob this is the fastener