Timing Belt / Tensioner Recommendation
#61
Former Vendor
Well, it must be obvious by now, that Porken and I disagree on what is the best tensioner for a 928 belt.
Clearly there are many, many, miles that have been put on the stock 928 tensioner design.
Unlike the 4 cylinder vehicles (944 to 968), Porsche never felt it necessary to change the basic design of this tensioner (which was completely redesigned for the 4 cylinder models 3 separate times.) This means that Porsche felt that they did a pretty good job of designing this tensioner.
I happen to agree.
There are also many people out there that think Porken's Tensioner is a great design and have used it with success.
I have zero financial stake in this debate about tensioners...it makes no difference, to me, which way you choose to go.
Pick the best one, for you, and install it.
Clearly there are many, many, miles that have been put on the stock 928 tensioner design.
Unlike the 4 cylinder vehicles (944 to 968), Porsche never felt it necessary to change the basic design of this tensioner (which was completely redesigned for the 4 cylinder models 3 separate times.) This means that Porsche felt that they did a pretty good job of designing this tensioner.
I happen to agree.
There are also many people out there that think Porken's Tensioner is a great design and have used it with success.
I have zero financial stake in this debate about tensioners...it makes no difference, to me, which way you choose to go.
Pick the best one, for you, and install it.
#62
Inventor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
'80 single crank idler pulley replaces fixed guide piece
'83 tensioner gasket added
'83 oil filling ports, limited damping piston
'85 tension warning system light (with 3 minute delay at startup)
'86 tensioner moved outward for closer offset to pulley center
'87 two crank idler pulleys
'87 stronger plastic tensioner arm bushes
'87 revised tensioner arm pivot with additional support
'92 return to one crank idler pulley
If you like the stock timing belt tensioning system, you'll love the stock flexplate clamp!
I don't sell engines, so it's no biggie to me, but I feel it is irresponsible to not have a belt tensioning system with greater than stock damping capability to go along with a larger cube engine, which will have larger flapping events, especially when (it catches a) cold.
#63
Nordschleife Master
You mean that the belt vibrates? I don't see that as a problem that needs solving. The belt will respond to vibrations and when it hits a harmonic it'll vibrate. It's still tight and isn't going to jump a tooth.
From what I've heard, Ken's tensioner is better because you don't need to re-tension the belt. The design also is intended to keep a more consistent tension across temperature. What is the net outcome over the stock tensioner and am I missing something. Does it prevent belts from breaking? What does a 9201 show over temp and mileage?
Porsche made plenty of changes over the lifetime. I've gone to a later oil-filled tensioner myself. (Cheap off eBay.) They didn't issue a recall or service bulletin to retrofit the changes. Or is that not true?
From what I've heard, Ken's tensioner is better because you don't need to re-tension the belt. The design also is intended to keep a more consistent tension across temperature. What is the net outcome over the stock tensioner and am I missing something. Does it prevent belts from breaking? What does a 9201 show over temp and mileage?
Porsche made plenty of changes over the lifetime. I've gone to a later oil-filled tensioner myself. (Cheap off eBay.) They didn't issue a recall or service bulletin to retrofit the changes. Or is that not true?
#64
Inventor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
With a tensioner/damper like the PKsn'r, the temporary looseness is immediately taken up by the tensioner as the belt passes by. As the cams and the rest of the belt catch up, the belt tension equalizes, and the tension piston retracts slightly to restore average tension.
There is no good flapping.
#65
Basic Sponsor
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Ken,
I love it when you talk dirty 8>)
Roger
I love it when you talk dirty 8>)
Roger
__________________
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
#66
Captain Obvious
Super User
Super User
.....With a tensioner/damper like the PKsn'r, the temporary looseness is immediately taken up by the tensioner as the belt passes by. As the cams and the rest of the belt catch up, the belt tension equalizes, and the tension piston retracts slightly to restore average tension.......
#67
Nordschleife Master
Vibration isn't the problem, it's the irregular speed changes at the crank from uneven piston firing or valve spring tension which momentarily elongate the belt on the taught side, creating slack on the loose/tensioner side. Undamped, the belt flutters/flaps with the extra belt length.
With a tensioner/damper like the PKsn'r, the temporary looseness is immediately taken up by the tensioner as the belt passes by. As the cams and the rest of the belt catch up, the belt tension equalizes, and the tension piston retracts slightly to restore average tension.
There is no good flapping.
With a tensioner/damper like the PKsn'r, the temporary looseness is immediately taken up by the tensioner as the belt passes by. As the cams and the rest of the belt catch up, the belt tension equalizes, and the tension piston retracts slightly to restore average tension.
There is no good flapping.
I don't think the tensioner can respond that quickly. It's hydraulicaly damped, isn't it? At 6K rpms pistons are firing at 800 Hz. If it's fully compressed and then released, how quickly does the tensioner become fully extended?
#68
Inventor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
The T/D can retract ~2mm maximum immediately after extending, then it takes >30 secs to retract farther if needed to a point where the average tension is restored.
At higher rpms the average tension is higher for a time, as the piston has no time to retract. Temporary higher tension is good to keep the belt on the gears when accelerating. There is no good time for low tension.
Glen... seriously.
At higher rpms the average tension is higher for a time, as the piston has no time to retract. Temporary higher tension is good to keep the belt on the gears when accelerating. There is no good time for low tension.
Glen... seriously.
#69
Captain Obvious
Super User
Super User
The T/D can retract ~2mm maximum immediately after extending, then it takes >30 secs to retract farther to a point where the average tension is restored.
At higher rpms the average tension is higher for a time, as the piston has no time to retract. Temporary higher tension is good to keep the belt on the gears when accelerating. There is no good time for low tension.
At higher rpms the average tension is higher for a time, as the piston has no time to retract. Temporary higher tension is good to keep the belt on the gears when accelerating. There is no good time for low tension.
#70
Nordschleife Master
Here's the problem: if the belt is vibrating at 100 Hz (and that's probably low) it needs to move in 5mS to actively damp it. To remove the pulses from cam lobes it needs to be below 1mS. That's awfully quick.
It'd be easier to reduce vibration by adding slack to the belt. Since a vibrating belt will increase tension, I bet it's pulling back a bit, letting the belt go a bit more slack and in that way changing what the harmonic frequency is. It wouldn't be letting the belt tension go lower than normal, btw.
It'd be easier to reduce vibration by adding slack to the belt. Since a vibrating belt will increase tension, I bet it's pulling back a bit, letting the belt go a bit more slack and in that way changing what the harmonic frequency is. It wouldn't be letting the belt tension go lower than normal, btw.
#72
Inventor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
When retracting the piston on a cold tensioner in a vise, it goes: compress ~2mm, stopped, wait..., compress, stopped, wait..., etc. It takes >5 mins before you can insert the grenade pin.
Here's the problem: if the belt is vibrating at 100 Hz (and that's probably low) it needs to move in 5mS to actively damp it. To remove the pulses from cam lobes it needs to be below 1mS. That's awfully quick.
It'd be easier to reduce vibration by adding slack to the belt. Since a vibrating belt will increase tension, I bet it's pulling back a bit, letting the belt go a bit more slack and in that way changing what the harmonic frequency is. It wouldn't be letting the belt tension go lower than normal, btw.
It'd be easier to reduce vibration by adding slack to the belt. Since a vibrating belt will increase tension, I bet it's pulling back a bit, letting the belt go a bit more slack and in that way changing what the harmonic frequency is. It wouldn't be letting the belt tension go lower than normal, btw.
You see some weird things with the cover(s) off. EG. at high rpm the belt comes out of the water pump pulley nearly horizontal for a ways (farther and farther with speed), then curves up towards the 5-8 gear!
#74
Former Vendor
'80 revised Bellville washer stack
'80 single crank idler pulley replaces fixed guide piece
'83 tensioner gasket added
'83 oil filling ports, limited damping piston
'85 tension warning system light (with 3 minute delay at startup)
'86 tensioner moved outward for closer offset to pulley center
'87 two crank idler pulleys
'87 stronger plastic tensioner arm bushes
'87 revised tensioner arm pivot with additional support
'92 return to one crank idler pulley
If you like the stock timing belt tensioning system, you'll love the stock flexplate clamp!
I don't sell engines, so it's no biggie to me, but I feel it is irresponsible to not have a belt tensioning system with greater than stock damping capability to go along with a larger cube engine, which will have larger flapping events, especially when (it catches a) cold.
'80 single crank idler pulley replaces fixed guide piece
'83 tensioner gasket added
'83 oil filling ports, limited damping piston
'85 tension warning system light (with 3 minute delay at startup)
'86 tensioner moved outward for closer offset to pulley center
'87 two crank idler pulleys
'87 stronger plastic tensioner arm bushes
'87 revised tensioner arm pivot with additional support
'92 return to one crank idler pulley
If you like the stock timing belt tensioning system, you'll love the stock flexplate clamp!
I don't sell engines, so it's no biggie to me, but I feel it is irresponsible to not have a belt tensioning system with greater than stock damping capability to go along with a larger cube engine, which will have larger flapping events, especially when (it catches a) cold.
Wow.
You don't understand that the basic design is still the same?
The basic oil filled Bellville washer housing mechanically applying pressure to the belt never changed.
The 4 cylinder engines went from a mechanically locked pulley, to a spring pressure adjusted pulley, to a hydraulic mechanism...over a much shorter period of time.
The stock flex plate retaining system worked great, until it was re-engineered for the 4 speed automatic transmissions. The "new" engineers failed to realize that the clamp could migrate towards the front of the shaft, without the positive stop. Yes, the lack of a positive stop was a problem (sound familiar?) Note that it took years for this to be a problem (sound familiar?)
Of course, Constantine solved this with his great invention.....you want to go there?
As far as what I do is concerned....I'm a pretty big hitter in the world of 928 engines. I've been building these engines for over 30 years. I've literally done hundreds of these engines. I've literally changed over 1000 belts and rebuilt over 1000 tensioners.
I've never had a belt or tensioner fail on a car that I take care of. I've never even had to redo a belt or tensioner in less than 45,000 miles, that I've touched.
Thousands of cars. Millions of miles
I'm willing to bet that I've got more miles on just my big cubic inch engines than you've got total on all the cars equipped with your tensioner.
Call me when you get close, son.
.....and don't ever think about suggesting that I'm irresponsible.....again.
#75
Inventor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
You don't understand that the basic design is still the same?
The basic oil filled Bellville washer housing mechanically applying pressure to the belt never changed.
The 4 cylinder engines went from a mechanically locked pulley, to a spring pressure adjusted pulley, to a hydraulic mechanism...over a much shorter period of time.
The basic oil filled Bellville washer housing mechanically applying pressure to the belt never changed.
The 4 cylinder engines went from a mechanically locked pulley, to a spring pressure adjusted pulley, to a hydraulic mechanism...over a much shorter period of time.
The 944 tensioner went from a fixed tensioner, to a fixed tensioner with a spring assist to help tension it (whereby it is locked down) to make it easier to install, to finally, a proper tensioner/damper design. One major improvement, on a much higher volume car.
The stock flex plate retaining system worked great, until it was re-engineered for the 4 speed automatic transmissions. The "new" engineers failed to realize that the clamp could migrate towards the front of the shaft, without the positive stop. Yes, the lack of a positive stop was a problem (sound familiar?) Note that it took years for this to be a problem (sound familiar?)
Of course, Constantine solved this with his great invention.....you want to go there?
Of course, Constantine solved this with his great invention.....you want to go there?
Constantine makes an excellent product. Roger sells an alternative which is easily installed which works well, too.
As far as what I do is concerned....I'm a pretty big hitter in the world of 928 engines. I've been building these engines for over 30 years. I've literally done hundreds of these engines. I've literally changed over 1000 belts and rebuilt over 1000 tensioners.
I've never had a belt or tensioner fail on a car that I take care of. I've never even had to redo a belt or tensioner in less than 45,000 miles, that I've touched.
I've never had a belt or tensioner fail on a car that I take care of. I've never even had to redo a belt or tensioner in less than 45,000 miles, that I've touched.
Pride goeth before destruction, and an haughty spirit before a fall.
Better it is to be of an humble spirit with the lowly, than to divide the spoil with the proud.
Better it is to be of an humble spirit with the lowly, than to divide the spoil with the proud.
I would take you more seriously in this discussion, but you have not demonstrated an understanding of how the timing belt acts in motion. That a rubber belt momentarily stretches and returns to shape, and that there are different tension levels at different points along it's length at different times.
Have you never seen the belt flapping at certain rpms with the stock tensioner system, even with a 'properly' tensioned belt, or wondered why all the 'idler' pulleys are there?
"Can you hear me now?"
The Audi tensioner system has been used on hundreds of thousands of cars, with Billions of miles driven. Many mechanics have described it as 'bulletproof' to me. Used on the 928, it is understressed.
If you read carefully, I did not say that you were irresponsible, only that I would feel that way...because I know better.