Don't start up you engine unless you plan driving the thing.
12-09-2009, 03:31 PM
#18
Drifting
After starting, I’ve always heard it best to get on with some causal driving. Heard it helps splash oil around while things are coming up to temp. By the time you get out of your neighborhood (a minute or two of driving), you should be okay with say maybe 40 to 50% power. One should wait for everything to be up to temp before trying to extract full power.
Another consideration is water is a product of combustion. If you fire up the engine without running it long, the water in the exhaust doesn’t turn to steam. In the long run that will rust out the exhaust system from the inside out. It’s always best to get your exhaust up to temp every time you run the car… short spurts or sitting at idle are the worst.
Another consideration is water is a product of combustion. If you fire up the engine without running it long, the water in the exhaust doesn’t turn to steam. In the long run that will rust out the exhaust system from the inside out. It’s always best to get your exhaust up to temp every time you run the car… short spurts or sitting at idle are the worst.
12-09-2009, 03:43 PM
#19
Rennlist Member
12-09-2009, 03:55 PM
#20
Nordschleife Master
I was driving mine in the north one winter and it was only -30 C. Turned it off. Next morning it was -45 C. I could not get it running until I put a lamp under the car for about 5 hours.
12-10-2009, 04:47 AM
#21
Rennlist Member
Idling is prohibited in Germany for many years (at least 30) by law. It is not good for the engine (takes longer than driving at moderate speeds) and certainly not for the environment. Many cars in Europe have pre-heater system installed. Do a search for WEBASTO to find out more. My 944 S2 is driven through the winter and has a pre-heater installed, no more cold starts, period. The heater uses gas out of the regular tank and feeds a small combustion chamber. The coolant is heated and as soon as a certain temperature is reached, a small electric pump circulates the coolant through the block and heater cores. The inside fan is turned on, defrosts the windshield and heats the inside. Everything is remote controlled, or better text message controlled. I send my car a text message with a command to turn the heater on, done. The cool thing about this is that there is no range limit 
Fuel consumption of the system is about 2 cups per hour, that´s all.
Fuel consumption of the system is about 2 cups per hour, that´s all.
Last edited by Schocki; 12-10-2009 at 10:56 AM.
12-10-2009, 09:01 AM
#22
Addict
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Two reasons you shouldn't do this.
1. Letting the car run at lower than normal operating temperatures increases wear
2. If the car doesn't get up to full operating temperature the exhaust may retain moisture and cause corosion from the inside out.
1. Letting the car run at lower than normal operating temperatures increases wear
2. If the car doesn't get up to full operating temperature the exhaust may retain moisture and cause corosion from the inside out.
12-10-2009, 03:55 PM
#23
Rennlist Member
My general rule on all cars is no more than 50% throttle
or 50% revs untill the temperature guage starts to move
and I can feel hot air throught the heater vents.
Over and above that I would never drive a car hard untill
the temperature guage indicates normal running temperature.
or 50% revs untill the temperature guage starts to move
and I can feel hot air throught the heater vents.
Over and above that I would never drive a car hard untill
the temperature guage indicates normal running temperature.
12-10-2009, 04:09 PM
#24
Cottage Industry Sponsor
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During my college years I used to have a car with very weak heater. Every morning I'd let it idle for a few minutes while scraping the ice off the windows, hoping that the heater would produce enough warm air to keep the winshield from freezing again.
One morning, as I was busy scraping, I heard a voice from behind: "What are you doing wrong now?" I turned around, and a Police van had pulled-up.
The officer made it very clear that if I didn't turn off my engine right away, or if he caught me doing it again, he would ticket me.
So I switched to a different de-icing technique: Garden watering can with warm water, slowly rinsed over the glass to warm it up. Worked much better than scraping and idleing, was faster, and neither my brother nor I ever had any cracked windows from it.
The Webasto pre-heaters are awesome, but I don't know too many average folks who spend the money on them. I think they are around $2000 including installation.
One morning, as I was busy scraping, I heard a voice from behind: "What are you doing wrong now?" I turned around, and a Police van had pulled-up.
The officer made it very clear that if I didn't turn off my engine right away, or if he caught me doing it again, he would ticket me.
So I switched to a different de-icing technique: Garden watering can with warm water, slowly rinsed over the glass to warm it up. Worked much better than scraping and idleing, was faster, and neither my brother nor I ever had any cracked windows from it.
The Webasto pre-heaters are awesome, but I don't know too many average folks who spend the money on them. I think they are around $2000 including installation.
12-10-2009, 04:10 PM
#25
Race Car
On the 928's I never push them (stay under 3k RPM and no more than 1/2 throttle) until I see warm operating oil pressure, i.e. 3 bar or less at idle. Forget about coolant temp, it's the oil pressure/temp/viscosity that matters.
Dan
'91 928GT S/C
475hp/460lb.ft
Dan
'91 928GT S/C
475hp/460lb.ft
