Don't start up you engine unless you plan driving the thing.
#1
Pro
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Don't start up you engine unless you plan driving the thing.
At least thats what the instructions manual says. You should drive off right away, not let the engine idle after cold start.
Just curious, is there any technical explanation for this or did they just consider the environment back in 1986??
Just curious, is there any technical explanation for this or did they just consider the environment back in 1986??
#5
Captain Obvious
Super User
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Fuel injected engiens warm up much faster if they are driven and so is the catalytic. All they need is 30 sec. of idle to bring the oil pressrue up to normal and then you are good to go. This goes for all FI car since the mid 80's. This doesn't mean you go pedal to the metal as you and you get moving.
#7
Rennlist Member
You mean I shouldn't floor it and make the cool sounds as soon as I start the car?
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#8
Nordschleife Master
I always get in and just drive my car. Except for in the winter, and then I let it idle for a few minutes. This is mainly while I scrape the frost off the windows!
#9
Administrator - "Tyson"
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Fuel injected engiens warm up much faster if they are driven and so is the catalytic. All they need is 30 sec. of idle to bring the oil pressrue up to normal and then you are good to go. This goes for all FI car since the mid 80's. This doesn't mean you go pedal to the metal as you and you get moving.
You can idle a car for a very long time (especially in the winter) without the oil going up much in temperature. You want the oil to reach full operating temp as fast as possible. This is never going to happen at idle. The 928 makes things worse by having a 9-10 quart sump.
Revving it in neutral doesn't help either, needs to be under a load. The longest I've ever let my Audi idle in the winter was just over 10 minutes, the oil temperature gauge didn't move at all (yes I know it's accurate). My coolant was warmed up, that doesn't mean anything for the oil.
This is why you should not start up a stored car unless you plan on driving it.
#10
Rennlist Member
Interesting comments.
The 928 auto transmission spins when the engine is idling and the trans. is in park or neutral and the trans oil heats up. This is one reason the trans oil level must be checked with the engine running per the WSM.
Any vehicle parked outside in our winters require time to warm before moving................metal gears etc become very brittle at extreme low temps.
My 928 is tucked in the garage for the next 3-4 months so no worries.
The 928 auto transmission spins when the engine is idling and the trans. is in park or neutral and the trans oil heats up. This is one reason the trans oil level must be checked with the engine running per the WSM.
Any vehicle parked outside in our winters require time to warm before moving................metal gears etc become very brittle at extreme low temps.
My 928 is tucked in the garage for the next 3-4 months so no worries.
#11
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Isn't the issue that the ECU runs the engine very rich at start-up, and the sooner it can lean out the less raw fuel dilutes the oil in the cylinder bores and ends up in the cats?
I've always understood the idea is to avoid loading the mechanicals while they're cold. If you pull away gradually with a cold drivetrain that doesn't stress things any more than idling.
I've always understood the idea is to avoid loading the mechanicals while they're cold. If you pull away gradually with a cold drivetrain that doesn't stress things any more than idling.
#12
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Fuel injected engiens warm up much faster if they are driven and so is the catalytic. All they need is 30 sec. of idle to bring the oil pressrue up to normal and then you are good to go. This goes for all FI car since the mid 80's. This doesn't mean you go pedal to the metal as you and you get moving.
Isn't the issue that the ECU runs the engine very rich at start-up, and the sooner it can lean out the less raw fuel dilutes the oil in the cylinder bores and ends up in the cats?
I've always understood the idea is to avoid loading the mechanicals while they're cold. If you pull away gradually with a cold drivetrain that doesn't stress things any more than idling.
I've always understood the idea is to avoid loading the mechanicals while they're cold. If you pull away gradually with a cold drivetrain that doesn't stress things any more than idling.
I agree about taking it easy at startup, with the 5 speed shifting can be a little notchy when it's REALLY cold out. That's when I broke my shift centering spring too. I guess it was cold and brittle and when I pulled the shifter over for first, there was tension and then NONE. I think one benefit of having the exhaust go right near the trans is it helps warm up the trans fluid quicker on really cold days.