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Don't start up you engine unless you plan driving the thing.

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Old 12-09-2009, 12:37 PM
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paalw
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Default Don't start up you engine unless you plan driving the thing.

At least thats what the instructions manual says. You should drive off right away, not let the engine idle after cold start.

Just curious, is there any technical explanation for this or did they just consider the environment back in 1986??
Old 12-09-2009, 12:44 PM
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Mongo
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Probably 1 thing I don't follow in the manual as I let my car warm up for a minute or 2.
Old 12-09-2009, 12:45 PM
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blitz928
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Because the engine will be warmed up, but the transmission will not be up to temp. This goes for all cars.
Old 12-09-2009, 12:47 PM
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andy-gts
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matt what is your answer to?
Old 12-09-2009, 12:59 PM
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Imo000
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Fuel injected engiens warm up much faster if they are driven and so is the catalytic. All they need is 30 sec. of idle to bring the oil pressrue up to normal and then you are good to go. This goes for all FI car since the mid 80's. This doesn't mean you go pedal to the metal as you and you get moving.
Old 12-09-2009, 01:03 PM
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76FJ55
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Apparently it's not just for FI cars, as my 1976 Toyota Landcruiser has a similar statement in its maunal.
Old 12-09-2009, 01:07 PM
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You mean I shouldn't floor it and make the cool sounds as soon as I start the car?
Old 12-09-2009, 01:54 PM
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Lizard928
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I always get in and just drive my car. Except for in the winter, and then I let it idle for a few minutes. This is mainly while I scrape the frost off the windows!
Old 12-09-2009, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Imo000
Fuel injected engiens warm up much faster if they are driven and so is the catalytic. All they need is 30 sec. of idle to bring the oil pressrue up to normal and then you are good to go. This goes for all FI car since the mid 80's. This doesn't mean you go pedal to the metal as you and you get moving.
Has nothing to do with fuel injection, good poing on the CAT.

You can idle a car for a very long time (especially in the winter) without the oil going up much in temperature. You want the oil to reach full operating temp as fast as possible. This is never going to happen at idle. The 928 makes things worse by having a 9-10 quart sump.

Revving it in neutral doesn't help either, needs to be under a load. The longest I've ever let my Audi idle in the winter was just over 10 minutes, the oil temperature gauge didn't move at all (yes I know it's accurate). My coolant was warmed up, that doesn't mean anything for the oil.

This is why you should not start up a stored car unless you plan on driving it.
Old 12-09-2009, 02:39 PM
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Interesting comments.

The 928 auto transmission spins when the engine is idling and the trans. is in park or neutral and the trans oil heats up. This is one reason the trans oil level must be checked with the engine running per the WSM.

Any vehicle parked outside in our winters require time to warm before moving................metal gears etc become very brittle at extreme low temps.

My 928 is tucked in the garage for the next 3-4 months so no worries.
Old 12-09-2009, 02:48 PM
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Tom in Austin
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Isn't the issue that the ECU runs the engine very rich at start-up, and the sooner it can lean out the less raw fuel dilutes the oil in the cylinder bores and ends up in the cats?

I've always understood the idea is to avoid loading the mechanicals while they're cold. If you pull away gradually with a cold drivetrain that doesn't stress things any more than idling.
Old 12-09-2009, 03:00 PM
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Mike Frye
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Originally Posted by Imo000
Fuel injected engiens warm up much faster if they are driven and so is the catalytic. All they need is 30 sec. of idle to bring the oil pressrue up to normal and then you are good to go. This goes for all FI car since the mid 80's. This doesn't mean you go pedal to the metal as you and you get moving.
My oil pressure shows full (5 bar) immediately on startup, but it's still really cold and usually takes about 5 minutes or more of light cruise (under 3k rpms) before it's thinned out to normal viscosity where it will drop to 3 bar at idle and go up to 5 bar at 2k+.

Originally Posted by Tom in Austin
Isn't the issue that the ECU runs the engine very rich at start-up, and the sooner it can lean out the less raw fuel dilutes the oil in the cylinder bores and ends up in the cats?

I've always understood the idea is to avoid loading the mechanicals while they're cold. If you pull away gradually with a cold drivetrain that doesn't stress things any more than idling.
I think the start up map only lasts until the O2 sensor warms up though, no?

I agree about taking it easy at startup, with the 5 speed shifting can be a little notchy when it's REALLY cold out. That's when I broke my shift centering spring too. I guess it was cold and brittle and when I pulled the shifter over for first, there was tension and then NONE. I think one benefit of having the exhaust go right near the trans is it helps warm up the trans fluid quicker on really cold days.
Old 12-09-2009, 03:06 PM
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Lizard928
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Especially with the oil cooler in the rad.
Old 12-09-2009, 03:15 PM
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I warm my truck at least 15 min every morning in winter up here, but as you say, the tranny is still frozen up until I get a few miles down the road.
Old 12-09-2009, 03:17 PM
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Lizard928
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Ole,

When I was in really cold areas, I would put a 500W halogon lamp on the tranny. This made it a little more liveable.


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