billtool

So what's the procedure to get rid of static? Radiators in Houston are kinda hard to come by...

PorKen

Just touch something metal, eg. your computer case. These EPROMs are difficult to damage. (I have avoided using CMOS type EPROMs.)

Another tip for unplugging the ECU connectors - push in (towards the computer) at the wire harness end of the connector before releasing the spring tab. (There is a rubber seal which presses the connector tight against the tab.)

PorKen

I bet you like the throttle blip in-between shifts on the 300 chipset.

Greg Phillips

Do these chips work for the 86.5, or only the 85-86 years?

I have a RRFR and x-pipe on my 1986.5 5 speed, just need to add new chip or does 86.5 chip do it already?

Thanks
Greg Phillips

Also, what is the compatibility of the different LH boxes? Can you use an S4 in 86.5 or vice vesra?

GP

James Bailey

85-86-86.5 Same brains, S-4 very different.

Darklands

Ken,
a wise move to mail bulletproof eproms to the clients! ;-)

I have the U shaped tube back in the V of the engine and the third nut is back on the rubberbolt in the back.
(I think it´s a worse job for childrenwork or aliens with a second wristjoint.)

Tomorrow I clean the intakelegs and reassemble the intake.I hope this week is the car back on the road.

billtool

OK...gotta no start. Installed thr FPR - no leaks. No real problems that I saw with the chip install. Cracked the socket a bit on the LH, but chip still sat down nicely. I did all the work with the battery disconnected. Any thoughts? I bet it's an easy fix.

billtool

I circled the "damage" I did to the board when pulling out the old chip. I discovered I broke a wire - just tried to re-solder. Possible cause of my no start. Just doesn't sound like it's getting spark. I don't have an adj FPR - just the 87 replacement. If no one's got any better ideas, I guess I should pull the regulator, install old one, replace chips with originals and see if AI f'd up the board?

paalw

Hmm, i was just browsing liftbars.com to see if there were any new stuff, and I see that the ROW 16V chip isn't there anymore.

What's the reason?

PorKen

'85-'86.5. '86.5 has a better cat-back exhaust, so they perform better than '85-'86.0 from the get go.

You probably have a AFPR like this one? (The literature says rising rate, but they aren't.) Just need to adjust it to 58 psi, when the engine is cold, off, and the fuel pump relay jumpered. You need the new chips to go with the higher fuel pressure.

PorKen

Bill...uh...you just destroyed both of your brains.

I package my chips with a EPROM socket so they are easier to handle. You don't remove the socket on the board, you remove the EPROM from the socket, then pop in the S300s chip assembly onto the board socket.


If you mail your ECUs to me, I may be able to solder new sockets on them, and repair the other damage...

PorKen

I haven't had time to update the 16V EZF chip. I may have both EZF and LH chips in a few months, if I can get hold of a S2 for a day or two.

BC

Makes me want to get an 85-86.5

billtool

Well....that sucks. The socket on the LH is still there (cracked it)...and apparently I pryed the socket out of the EZK. I'll get them both out to you and hopefully you can breath life into them...thanks Ken.

PorKen

Before you install the intake legs, get out your Metabo grinder, and do some 'gasket matching' on the outlets. They are all cast differently, and some cylinders have quite a bit of restriction. (The head ports are usually a little better.)

You can see the brown areas where the casting doesn't match the head ports. It doesn't need to be perfect, but you can definitely make it better. You can also grind down any big sand bumps near the outlet, too. (If you do any work by the injector hole, don't round the edge any more. If anything, you want a sharp edge near the injector for mixing turbulence.)