1st Gear Grind
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
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I just picked up a really nice 928 S today. However the clutch needs bled. It doesn't click down like it should, it just goes down. It seems to shift to other gears fine but 1st gear is a real jerk. Is bleeding the clutch going to help? Maybe some new tranny fluid?
#2
Team Owner
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before you bleed anything you should inspect under the dash for a leaking MC where the pushrod goes into the cylinder and then the flex hose from chassis to the hard line to the slave then the slave itself for dripping.
If you see leaking then you could replace one part at a time.
Or do the complete clutch Hydro system.
New silicone blue hose, new master cylinder, new flex line and new slave, with some fresh Blue ATE fluid
Also it would be helpful to post the year and model of your car it makes diagnosis easier
If you see leaking then you could replace one part at a time.
Or do the complete clutch Hydro system.
New silicone blue hose, new master cylinder, new flex line and new slave, with some fresh Blue ATE fluid
Also it would be helpful to post the year and model of your car it makes diagnosis easier
#3
Rennlist Member
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What do you mean "click down"? Simple test to see if your clutch is dragging: Idle in neutral. Push in clutch, wait two seconds, then shift to reverse. If it doesn't grind, then your clutch is not dragging. It's possible that the clutch was dragging in the past and the first gear synchro is shot as a result.
#4
Rennlist Member
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Shifting into reverse on the 928 may or may not show whether the clutch is dragging - reverse on the 928 is synchronized (at least on the later cars)!
A more definitive test is to jack the rear wheels off the ground, and run the engine with the transmission in gear and the clutch all the way to the floor - if the rear wheels rotate, the clutch is dragging.
A more definitive test is to jack the rear wheels off the ground, and run the engine with the transmission in gear and the clutch all the way to the floor - if the rear wheels rotate, the clutch is dragging.
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
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Okay, well here is the full situation as best as I can describe;
When pushing down the clutch, I try to go into 1st gear and it grinds. I can get into it, but I have to force it through the grind. Same for reverse. I was able to drive it around good earlier. I started off in 2nd gear and shifted into the rest of the gears fine. 1st and reverse gears were stil lan issue though.
I brought it back to the garage and later on came back to try the shifting. The stick wouldn't enter any of the gears. Like something was blocking it. I noticed that you can pull the clutch up a bit, and then press down. Maybe a hydraulic problem?
They guy said the clutch needed bled. He had recently replaced the clutch, so maybe it just needs some adjusting?
I have an 82 S. It has the same shifting as the snailshell on the 79' 924.
When pushing down the clutch, I try to go into 1st gear and it grinds. I can get into it, but I have to force it through the grind. Same for reverse. I was able to drive it around good earlier. I started off in 2nd gear and shifted into the rest of the gears fine. 1st and reverse gears were stil lan issue though.
I brought it back to the garage and later on came back to try the shifting. The stick wouldn't enter any of the gears. Like something was blocking it. I noticed that you can pull the clutch up a bit, and then press down. Maybe a hydraulic problem?
They guy said the clutch needed bled. He had recently replaced the clutch, so maybe it just needs some adjusting?
I have an 82 S. It has the same shifting as the snailshell on the 79' 924.
#7
Team Owner
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you have Hydraulic problems.
Note that you dont have to always start in first gear if your on a flat road second works OK .
But i would also recommend that you bleed the system first then try, sometimes its better to use 3rd gear ( this stops the trans from spinning) before putting the car into first
Note that you dont have to always start in first gear if your on a flat road second works OK .
But i would also recommend that you bleed the system first then try, sometimes its better to use 3rd gear ( this stops the trans from spinning) before putting the car into first
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#8
Rennlist Member
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First, bleed the clutch. Do a search on this Forum, since this can be a troublesome operation.
After you are CERTAIN that there is no air in the clutch system, if you still have the problem, you might need to adjust the center plate on the clutch. The twin-plate clutch is a good unit, but it does need some adjustments. Again, search is your friend.
After you are CERTAIN that there is no air in the clutch system, if you still have the problem, you might need to adjust the center plate on the clutch. The twin-plate clutch is a good unit, but it does need some adjustments. Again, search is your friend.
#10
Racer
Thread Starter
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What should I search for on bleeding the clutch? I ordered a nice manual and complete repair and rebuild book online the day after I got the car, but I now await it's arrival.
#12
Racer
Thread Starter
#13
Nordschleife Master
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That's one way. Keep digging around for more background on your problem.
Here's a thread:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-properly.html
Look for bleeding methods and ignore all the back-and-forth although that does give some sense of how hard it is to get right.
Here's a thread:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-properly.html
Look for bleeding methods and ignore all the back-and-forth although that does give some sense of how hard it is to get right.
#14
Rennlist Member
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You can use whatever method you prefer (Motive bleeder, 2 guys, check valve etc) to bleed the hell out of it, but these things are notoriously hard to get all the air out of. Sometimes they bleed pretty easy, but sometimes you get a bubble in the clutch master cylinder that simply will not bleed out. When this happens there is a method ( you can search for more details here) that is called 'burping'. Basically, from inside the car, you remove the clip that keeps the master cylinder piston in place and pull out the piston. You let a little bit of fluid out onto a rag, hopefully bringing the trapped air as well, the put the piston and clip back in place. It sounds nasty but after hours of bleeding with no success it will seem simple and easy. There are a few other things that can cause the clutch to drag enough to mess up the shifting, but start with this and see where it gets you. I like the Motive bleeder...simple one man operation. But my standard proceedure these days is to just bleed it for a little while and if it does not work right away I go straight to the 'burping'.
#15
Team Owner
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Here is another link for the clutch bleeding process.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...hlight=+clutch
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...hlight=+clutch