Notices
928 Forum 1978-1995
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: 928 Specialists

Another water pump failure

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 10-03-2009, 08:15 PM
  #31  
JG928S4
Racer
 
JG928S4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Folsom, CA
Posts: 436
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

well, the old Porsche rebuild had metal impeller, new rebuilt has plastic impeller w/Roger Inspection....Smooth sailing in the future! I just will put a Diesel powered sticker on the Butt and it will all make sense. Just kidding, aint gonna drive it w/the noise.
Old 10-03-2009, 09:03 PM
  #32  
928Quest
Racer
 
928Quest's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Gilbert, AZ. U.S.A.
Posts: 304
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I had a similar issue in February, driving on freeway when suddenly the belt tension indicator came on. I exited the freeway and pulled into a hotel parking lot, I could hear a squeaking noise under the covers and I smelled the smell of coolant. Shut it off and flat-bedded back home.

I suspect the WP bearing and the car sat in the garage until late summer when I finally got around to having it flat-bedded to Dan Warner (Exotic Motorwerxs).

The WP was shot, not much or any belt damage, everything else was OK. Replaced with new pump, new belt, and some other work.

This could have happened to me. So I guess a word to the wise is, if your belt looses tension, find out why. Don't just retention and drive on because something somewhere has failed.
Old 10-03-2009, 09:22 PM
  #33  
H2
Addict
Rennlist Member

 
H2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Northwest
Posts: 5,982
Received 30 Likes on 27 Posts
Default

Frankly, when PorKen figures out a way to modify a rebuilt water pump so it's more reliable, I'll buy one. Until then, I'll be buying genuine Porsche. Price is not the issue here.

H2
Old 10-03-2009, 10:40 PM
  #34  
worf928
Addict
Rennlist Member
 
worf928's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Gone. On the Open Road
Posts: 16,463
Received 1,621 Likes on 1,059 Posts
Default

BB and JG, I really sorry to this this happen!

Originally Posted by 928Quest
So I guess a word to the wise is, if your belt looses tension, find out why. Don't just retention and drive on because something somewhere has failed.
+928

For a while now I've been telling folks up here in Yankee Land that the belt should only stretch once. If, after the post-install re-tension the belt becomes once-again loose then that means that there is a problem that must be tracked down and corrected. Randomly self-loosening belts or random belt tension warnings are not random. I'm going to, from now on, absolutely live by that.
Old 10-04-2009, 09:08 AM
  #35  
Black Sea RD
Former Vendor
 
Black Sea RD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,139
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Must it only be PorKen?


Originally Posted by H2
Frankly, when PorKen figures out a way to modify a rebuilt water pump so it's more reliable, I'll buy one. Until then, I'll be buying genuine Porsche. Price is not the issue here.

H2
Old 10-04-2009, 12:18 PM
  #36  
WallyP

Rennlist Member
Rennlist Site Sponsor

 
WallyP's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Acworth, GA
Posts: 6,469
Likes: 0
Received 11 Likes on 11 Posts
Default

For several years I have been scorned because I don't believe in replacing a good waterpump as a routine part of timing belt service. I think that I win...
Old 10-04-2009, 01:15 PM
  #37  
atb
Rennlist Member
 
atb's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Puyallup, WA
Posts: 4,869
Received 33 Likes on 19 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by ROG100
If the pully is attached to the shaft and the impeller likewise I beleive there is no risk of failure such as machining of the block. This has been discussed before and suggestions such as spot welding and pinning were put forward. The seal cartridge shaft being attached to the pulley would stop any migration towards the block.
If done professonially, does anyone see any issue with welding the pulley and impeller on the shaft? In particular, woud there be any balance issues that could cause failure of the bearing catridge? Any other potential issues?

I've seen the new laso, and it is a very stout looking unit. I really want to reduce my probability of a pulley or impellor comimg off the shaft to zero on the stroker, which is going to be impossible on any mass produced unit.
Old 10-04-2009, 04:07 PM
  #38  
Bill Ball
Under the Lift
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Thread Starter
 
Bill Ball's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Buckeye, AZ
Posts: 18,647
Received 49 Likes on 36 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by WallyP
For several years I have been scorned because I don't believe in replacing a good waterpump as a routine part of timing belt service. I think that I win...
I'm right there with you. The maintenance schedule has no provision for routine water pump replacement.
Old 10-04-2009, 04:29 PM
  #39  
blown 87
Rest in Peace
Rennlist Member
 
blown 87's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Bird lover in Sharpsburg
Posts: 9,903
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Bill Ball
I'm right there with you. The maintenance schedule has no provision for routine water pump replacement.
General automotive repair practice is to go no more than 120,000 miles on a water pump that is driven by a timing belt. (no more than every other belt change)

Failing water pumps are not just limited to the 928, some manufactures have even went as far as to design the water pump housing as a replaceable unit.

The 928, does however seem to have a VERY weak pump and if the impeller gets into the block, then you have a problem.

You have been blessed with the luck you have had with your 928 Bill.
Old 10-04-2009, 04:32 PM
  #40  
borland
Drifting
 
borland's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Camarillo, CA, USA
Posts: 2,259
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by WallyP
For several years I have been scorned because I don't believe in replacing a good waterpump as a routine part of timing belt service. I think that I win...
Unless you have the original factory asbestos wp gasket, I'd still recommend replacing the water pump bolts and gasket. The non-asbestos replacement gaskets from Porsche or other aftermarket suppliers tend to weep coolant into the bolt area which allows for gradual corrosion.

However as Mrmerlin has suggested coating the wp bolt threads on assembly, with a non-hardening thread sealant, can prevent such corrosion affects.
Old 10-04-2009, 09:28 PM
  #41  
Bill Ball
Under the Lift
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Thread Starter
 
Bill Ball's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Buckeye, AZ
Posts: 18,647
Received 49 Likes on 36 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by blown 87
General automotive repair practice is to go no more than 120,000 miles on a water pump that is driven by a timing belt. (no more than every other belt change)

Failing water pumps are not just limited to the 928, some manufactures have even went as far as to design the water pump housing as a replaceable unit.

The 928, does however seem to have a VERY weak pump and if the impeller gets into the block, then you have a problem.

You have been blessed with the luck you have had with your 928 Bill.
120K miles or every other TB sounds reasonable, although with the quality problems lately, lord knows what interval is optimal. Perhaps once a week. Mine has been changed about every 90K miles. I try to follow the 60K TB interval but have had to shorten a couple of the change intervals for other reasons. The first pump was done at 90K miles. The factory pump looked good as new and while the bearing had less drag than a new pump, it was still very firm. I could have left it alone.
Old 10-05-2009, 03:19 AM
  #42  
H2
Addict
Rennlist Member

 
H2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Northwest
Posts: 5,982
Received 30 Likes on 27 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Constantine
Must it only be PorKen?
PorKen is a natural born mechanical genius (in my book). Plus he accomplished something daring that no other 928 developer would have even tried...put together an auto tensioner system to help eliminate belt failures and keep steady tension. It takes ***** to mess with anything that touches the cam belt. That kind of sysle is on my 968 and should have been on the later 928s. PorKen just went and did it.

I'd put my trust in him to design a way to make sure impellers wouldn't come off....and he'd probably use better bearings too. If he weren't busy with other development work.

Maybe someone will figure this out. I hope someone does before my next WP replacement.

H2
Old 10-05-2009, 01:40 PM
  #43  
svp928
Rennlist Member
 
svp928's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: central cal
Posts: 975
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

As far as welding the pulley and impeller to the shaft- the shaft is also the inner bearing race, and is made from a special alloy used exclusively for bearings- it does NOT produce a good weld- it just cracks and comes apart. Plus, the heat would cook the grease in the bearings, and melt the rubber seals, so even if you got it to stick, the bearing would fail pretty quickly. You could EDM a hole thru both ends, and pin them together, but that would not stop the failure JG just had. The other problem, bearing migrating in the housing, can't really be fixed on the pumps as they are now. The housing does not have enough material to add a circlip or shoulder to locate the bearing cartridge..

So, for now, the best solution seems to be getting a brand-new pump- the interference fits on the components is at its best on all-new pumps. Once they have been pressed apart and back together for rebuild, that optimum fit is lost....
Old 10-05-2009, 02:16 PM
  #44  
borland
Drifting
 
borland's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Camarillo, CA, USA
Posts: 2,259
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by svp928
The other problem, bearing migrating in the housing, can't really be fixed on the pumps as they are now. The housing does not have enough material to add a circlip or shoulder to locate the bearing cartridge..

So, for now, the best solution seems to be getting a brand-new pump- the interference fits on the components is at its best on all-new pumps. Once they have been pressed apart and back together for rebuild, that optimum fit is lost....
With the impeller captivated to the shaft (either mechanically or by spot welding), the pump could be rebuilt and modified by installing a spacer(s) between the TB pulley and the pump housing so any migration of the shaft would impart severe and audible wear to the housing (or spacers) instead of the engine block. Some disk brake pads incorporate a audible wear alert design.
Old 10-05-2009, 02:21 PM
  #45  
polecat702
Vegas, Baby!
Rennlist Member


 
polecat702's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: far away
Posts: 11,535
Received 380 Likes on 162 Posts
Default

If it hasn't been posted, whats the general rule of thumb on replacement times for the WP/TB? The Sensors don't come on in my 87 S4, with 113,0096 miles. PO changed the WP/TB, tension,roller,cam belt idler, v belts, ribbed belt, thermostat & o-ring, at 106248 miles. I installed the PKlamp, and new pinch bolt over the weekend I got from Roger. Thanks, Joe


Quick Reply: Another water pump failure



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 07:19 PM.