Holbert Race car Dissasembly and chassis transfer thread
#31
Nordschleife Master
There's making spec and then there's keeping it. The car will be very weak and would need a lot of reinforcing. It'll still never be the same. I've been there. If someone wants the shell, let them have it. The smart thing, if you want to use the car, is to move the working parts to a new shell.
#33
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Yeah, I'd suggest just donating the Holbert shell and original engine to 928 International. Let them figure out what they want to do with it. They could sell it to someone to restore.... Or keep it on display.... At least they have the room to keep it there. Your job is moving on to the next race car. Let someone else figure out what to do with the remains....
#34
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Great thoughs and comments. Thanks.
UPDATE: I finally got that wheel off tonight. it was WAY jammed into the chassis. looked impossible, but then the idea of taking off the lower control arm and removing the lower shock connection got it moving. finally I WON the battle with my 6 ft crow-bar! I couldnt reach one of the 4 lower control arm bolts, but 3 was enough (rack and bent tie rod were in the way of the last bolt.) the lower control arm comes apart at the rear center rubber bushing portion.. interesting. anyway, wheel is off.
Then, i got a coil and installed it to start the engine and added 12 quarts of water. all had leaked out after the wreck from a broken hose off the rear of the engine heater hose. It started, but made some racket due to the clutch hitting the bell housing. (click click click, real loud) anyway, it started up and ran and the noise went away when I put in the clutch . also ran the engine through the gears (car is on jack stands with rear tires attached) clutch in, clutch out, it got to temp and and shut it down. pressure in the system, and no leaks. oil or water. radiator looks fine. that one header tube is crushed too, but I think that can be fixed. There are certainly possiblities that the torque tube could have a problem. we will know more when we get it all apart.
UPDATE: I finally got that wheel off tonight. it was WAY jammed into the chassis. looked impossible, but then the idea of taking off the lower control arm and removing the lower shock connection got it moving. finally I WON the battle with my 6 ft crow-bar! I couldnt reach one of the 4 lower control arm bolts, but 3 was enough (rack and bent tie rod were in the way of the last bolt.) the lower control arm comes apart at the rear center rubber bushing portion.. interesting. anyway, wheel is off.
Then, i got a coil and installed it to start the engine and added 12 quarts of water. all had leaked out after the wreck from a broken hose off the rear of the engine heater hose. It started, but made some racket due to the clutch hitting the bell housing. (click click click, real loud) anyway, it started up and ran and the noise went away when I put in the clutch . also ran the engine through the gears (car is on jack stands with rear tires attached) clutch in, clutch out, it got to temp and and shut it down. pressure in the system, and no leaks. oil or water. radiator looks fine. that one header tube is crushed too, but I think that can be fixed. There are certainly possiblities that the torque tube could have a problem. we will know more when we get it all apart.
#35
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Good news on the engine front, how about on the broken rib front. I've had broken ribs in the past and I sure wasn't ready to be yanking on a 6ft crow bar days after it happened.
Cheers,
Cheers,
Great thoughs and comments. Thanks.
UPDATE: I finally got that wheel off tonight. it was WAY jammed into the chassis. looked impossible, but then the idea of taking off the lower control arm and removing the lower shock connection got it moving. finally I WON the battle with my 6 ft crow-bar! I couldnt reach one of the 4 lower control arm bolts, but 3 was enough (rack and bent tie rod were in the way of the last bolt.) the lower control arm comes apart at the rear center rubber bushing portion.. interesting. anyway, wheel is off.
Then, i got a coil and installed it to start the engine and added 12 quarts of water. all had leaked out after the wreck from a broken hose off the rear of the engine heater hose. It started, but made some racket due to the clutch hitting the bell housing. (click click click, real loud) anyway, it started up and ran and the noise went away when I put in the clutch . also ran the engine through the gears (car is on jack stands with rear tires attached) clutch in, clutch out, it got to temp and and shut it down. pressure in the system, and no leaks. oil or water. radiator looks fine. that one header tube is crushed too, but I think that can be fixed. There are certainly possiblities that the torque tube could have a problem. we will know more when we get it all apart.
UPDATE: I finally got that wheel off tonight. it was WAY jammed into the chassis. looked impossible, but then the idea of taking off the lower control arm and removing the lower shock connection got it moving. finally I WON the battle with my 6 ft crow-bar! I couldnt reach one of the 4 lower control arm bolts, but 3 was enough (rack and bent tie rod were in the way of the last bolt.) the lower control arm comes apart at the rear center rubber bushing portion.. interesting. anyway, wheel is off.
Then, i got a coil and installed it to start the engine and added 12 quarts of water. all had leaked out after the wreck from a broken hose off the rear of the engine heater hose. It started, but made some racket due to the clutch hitting the bell housing. (click click click, real loud) anyway, it started up and ran and the noise went away when I put in the clutch . also ran the engine through the gears (car is on jack stands with rear tires attached) clutch in, clutch out, it got to temp and and shut it down. pressure in the system, and no leaks. oil or water. radiator looks fine. that one header tube is crushed too, but I think that can be fixed. There are certainly possiblities that the torque tube could have a problem. we will know more when we get it all apart.
#36
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I think i made things much worse by being a little to agreesive on the crowbar. I was trying to do things that just didnt hurt it, but that was a big mistake.
I couldnt sleep at all last night. no matter how I positioned myself, it hurt!
Hey, its been 3 days, shouldnt it be healed yet??
I couldnt sleep at all last night. no matter how I positioned myself, it hurt!
Hey, its been 3 days, shouldnt it be healed yet??
#37
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Mark: I had a crash in my old T-Bird on the freeway and I did not feel the whole magnatude of the impact untill three to five days later. Good luck and good meds. Don't be messing around with crowbars until you see what is up with your ribs,you could make things worse.
Gerry
Gerry
#38
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8-12 weeks for full recovery, Mark. Somewhere around 6 the pain will be pretty much gone when you twist to get out of the car or lift something.
#39
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#40
Nordschleife Master
Actually, Im leaning toward the offer that Mark Anderson at 928intl. has put out there. Then, the question is when we can get all the gear out of the holbert car. I might want to start this weekend.
The main problem is that I think I may have cracked, broken or brused some ribs in my back. the pain is sharp and I can barely walk right now. trying to get some x-rays today. anyway, as soon as Im able to crawl around and do things, I want to pull the clutch, and drop that sucker out. the rear stuff will be easy , as there is no damge to the rear .
How did you move things around on the frame machine? the problem is that the front clip is toast and one wheel is stuffed into the chassis and will have to be surgically removed. maybe the answer is a new front clip for the chassis. everything from the firewall forward. Ill try and get some better pictures right now.
The main problem is that I think I may have cracked, broken or brused some ribs in my back. the pain is sharp and I can barely walk right now. trying to get some x-rays today. anyway, as soon as Im able to crawl around and do things, I want to pull the clutch, and drop that sucker out. the rear stuff will be easy , as there is no damge to the rear .
How did you move things around on the frame machine? the problem is that the front clip is toast and one wheel is stuffed into the chassis and will have to be surgically removed. maybe the answer is a new front clip for the chassis. everything from the firewall forward. Ill try and get some better pictures right now.
#41
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My contact at Porsche confirmed that the Museum people now have the info I sent on the car and incident, and will contact me, if they are interested.
Maybe Mark should give it a few days before ripping things apart.
Maybe Mark should give it a few days before ripping things apart.
#42
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#43
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Just spend 8 hours on the Hobert car. Man, there is a lot of work, and Im not even in the core transfer mode yet! All the system control switches and wiring like fans, fire, oil temp, etc etc. I also got the front bumper stripped of fenders, and the front lights as well as air dam, and bent back all the steel supports in case we need to fix and then use the front bumper cover. I even pounded out my splitter which is now the same shape as it was originally, so I can copy it with a better piece of aluminum or CF. The CF section was a mess. It will need some glassing and expoxing all over if I am going to use it next time around.
So far Here is the list of possibly destroyed stuff needed to be replaced:
2 front lower control arms
2 upper front A arms. (actuallly, only need driver side, as I have a rebuilt spare fore passenger side)
2 tie rods
1 driver side front spindle
2 front blinker light assemblies
Steering rack (I might have one coming )
front engine cross member
driver side lower ball joint
1 maybe 2 motor mounts. I might be able to use these, but wont know until the engine comes out.
2 new front rims, but possibly an outer for the front , a repair for the passenger rear and one new 10" wheel.
Revalve shocks at koni.
upper S4 belhousing
Possible torque tube.
The list is getting ugly and Im sure its not getting an better!
We still need to get a plan together for sharktoberfest to determine what stays and what goes.
Thanks
Mark
2 fog lights (I have some used ones that I will use)
So far Here is the list of possibly destroyed stuff needed to be replaced:
2 front lower control arms
2 upper front A arms. (actuallly, only need driver side, as I have a rebuilt spare fore passenger side)
2 tie rods
1 driver side front spindle
2 front blinker light assemblies
Steering rack (I might have one coming )
front engine cross member
driver side lower ball joint
1 maybe 2 motor mounts. I might be able to use these, but wont know until the engine comes out.
2 new front rims, but possibly an outer for the front , a repair for the passenger rear and one new 10" wheel.
Revalve shocks at koni.
upper S4 belhousing
Possible torque tube.
The list is getting ugly and Im sure its not getting an better!
We still need to get a plan together for sharktoberfest to determine what stays and what goes.
Thanks
Mark
2 fog lights (I have some used ones that I will use)
#45
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