Holbert Race car Dissasembly and chassis transfer thread
#16
Under the Lift
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Hydraulic ram:
![](http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/44800-44899/44899.gif)
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=44899
and/or Sawzall:
![](http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31285TGDFTL._SL500_AA280_.jpg)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000789HE
Let me know when you are going to do this. If I can be there I would like to help pull it like I did when we dropped it in.
![](http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/44800-44899/44899.gif)
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=44899
and/or Sawzall:
![](http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31285TGDFTL._SL500_AA280_.jpg)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000789HE
Let me know when you are going to do this. If I can be there I would like to help pull it like I did when we dropped it in.
#17
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Just be sure to get a saw with a sufficient amount of torque and gearing...or is it HP?
For giggles I call dibs on the gas cover. Fun to own a part of a historic car in its time! How much?
#18
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Thanks guys. The problem is preserving the chassis, and also trying to get all the stuff out.
we have to determine that there is a real desire from the list, to do something with the chassis. Ill revert back to the other thread to discuss that.
Now, Im first thinking on getting the other coil replaced and then try and get the car started to make sure everything is ok with the engine. I found the water leak, it was a cut hose from the "short circuit" heater hose. thats fixed and Ill put water back in it. Just saw that besides the bell housing crack, and the flywheel rubbing a little like when bill and I forgot to tighten the upper bell housing bolts, i noticed that an entire bolt is missing on the driver side. I wonder if the impact, put so much stress on the drive train, that it pulled the bolt out of the block? Or, it just fell out and I havent noticed it. the crack is on the no bolt side, so im thinking it was pulled out, but thats kind of unbelieveable.
I dont know if the engine can come down without spreading the frame a bit. However, the good news for the frame is that it looks like its only the front clip that is tweeked, but its hard to tell. I dont know if that makes a difference, as the work to fix it would far out weigh the costs of a transfer of stuff.
anyone got a plasma cutter around here?![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
mk
we have to determine that there is a real desire from the list, to do something with the chassis. Ill revert back to the other thread to discuss that.
Now, Im first thinking on getting the other coil replaced and then try and get the car started to make sure everything is ok with the engine. I found the water leak, it was a cut hose from the "short circuit" heater hose. thats fixed and Ill put water back in it. Just saw that besides the bell housing crack, and the flywheel rubbing a little like when bill and I forgot to tighten the upper bell housing bolts, i noticed that an entire bolt is missing on the driver side. I wonder if the impact, put so much stress on the drive train, that it pulled the bolt out of the block? Or, it just fell out and I havent noticed it. the crack is on the no bolt side, so im thinking it was pulled out, but thats kind of unbelieveable.
I dont know if the engine can come down without spreading the frame a bit. However, the good news for the frame is that it looks like its only the front clip that is tweeked, but its hard to tell. I dont know if that makes a difference, as the work to fix it would far out weigh the costs of a transfer of stuff.
anyone got a plasma cutter around here?
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
mk
#19
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Its force and torque. (work!) I have nothing but time now, so I dont need much HP.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#21
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Hydraulic ram:
![](http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/44800-44899/44899.gif)
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=44899
and/or Sawzall:
![](http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31285TGDFTL._SL500_AA280_.jpg)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000789HE
Let me know when you are going to do this. If I can be there I would like to help pull it like I did when we dropped it in.
![](http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/44800-44899/44899.gif)
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=44899
and/or Sawzall:
![](http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31285TGDFTL._SL500_AA280_.jpg)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000789HE
Let me know when you are going to do this. If I can be there I would like to help pull it like I did when we dropped it in.
#22
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thanks John. Im just torn to do it on the trailer, or try and roll it off. If I have it on the trailer,I can deliver it when disassembled, or take it to a shop to spread the shock towers if I cant do it at home. Im mad because I cant work on it because my back is still hurting a lot. I think I might have cracked some ribs. Ill know later today I hope!
mk
mk
#23
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Mark:
I lost a lower bellhousing bolt once. Must have left it loose. I agree it would be hard to snap or pull that ***** out.
Anyway, keep us in mind when you get ready to work on this. We should be able to get a pretty good local crew together. I suppose the chassis could be restored but it looks like a lot more than just pulling things back into spec on a frame jig.
I lost a lower bellhousing bolt once. Must have left it loose. I agree it would be hard to snap or pull that ***** out.
Anyway, keep us in mind when you get ready to work on this. We should be able to get a pretty good local crew together. I suppose the chassis could be restored but it looks like a lot more than just pulling things back into spec on a frame jig.
#25
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Mark,
First, glad to I’m glad to hear that you were not seriously injured !
I have a similar situation with a fairly rare 928. I am going to but a 3/4 clip on the front of the car. In order to get the engine out without any hacking or cutting, I took it to a friendly body shop and had had them do a "rough" frame pull. It only cost me 200 bucks worth of frame machine time and it got things fairly close to where they belong. This enabled me to make a decision on how salvageable the chassis would be and also opened things up so I can get the engine out.
If I was facing your situation, I would keep that historic car (vin,chassis and original engine) until someday when you or maybe someone else has the will and the dollars to bring it back to life. If I had to draw a line on what constitutes the “original” car, I would certainly think that the tub and engine would be enough. Please….don’t cut up or discard the original tub. Everything is repairable but not everything is replaceable.
First, glad to I’m glad to hear that you were not seriously injured !
I have a similar situation with a fairly rare 928. I am going to but a 3/4 clip on the front of the car. In order to get the engine out without any hacking or cutting, I took it to a friendly body shop and had had them do a "rough" frame pull. It only cost me 200 bucks worth of frame machine time and it got things fairly close to where they belong. This enabled me to make a decision on how salvageable the chassis would be and also opened things up so I can get the engine out.
If I was facing your situation, I would keep that historic car (vin,chassis and original engine) until someday when you or maybe someone else has the will and the dollars to bring it back to life. If I had to draw a line on what constitutes the “original” car, I would certainly think that the tub and engine would be enough. Please….don’t cut up or discard the original tub. Everything is repairable but not everything is replaceable.
#26
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Actually, Im leaning toward the offer that Mark Anderson at 928intl. has put out there. Then, the question is when we can get all the gear out of the holbert car. I might want to start this weekend.
The main problem is that I think I may have cracked, broken or brused some ribs in my back. the pain is sharp and I can barely walk right now. trying to get some x-rays today. anyway, as soon as Im able to crawl around and do things, I want to pull the clutch, and drop that sucker out. the rear stuff will be easy , as there is no damge to the rear .
How did you move things around on the frame machine? the problem is that the front clip is toast and one wheel is stuffed into the chassis and will have to be surgically removed.
maybe the answer is a new front clip for the chassis. everything from the firewall forward. Ill try and get some better pictures right now.
The main problem is that I think I may have cracked, broken or brused some ribs in my back. the pain is sharp and I can barely walk right now. trying to get some x-rays today. anyway, as soon as Im able to crawl around and do things, I want to pull the clutch, and drop that sucker out. the rear stuff will be easy , as there is no damge to the rear .
Mark,
First, glad to I’m glad to hear that you were not seriously injured !
I have a similar situation with a fairly rare 928. I am going to but a 3/4 clip on the front of the car. In order to get the engine out without any hacking or cutting, I took it to a friendly body shop and had had them do a "rough" frame pull. It only cost me 200 bucks worth of frame machine time and it got things fairly close to where they belong. This enabled me to make a decision on how salvageable the chassis would be and also opened things up so I can get the engine out.
If I was facing your situation, I would keep that historic car (vin,chassis and original engine) until someday when you or maybe someone else has the will and the dollars to bring it back to life. If I had to draw a line on what constitutes the “original” car, I would certainly think that the tub and engine would be enough. Please….don’t cut up or discard the original tub. Everything is repairable but not everything is replaceable.
First, glad to I’m glad to hear that you were not seriously injured !
I have a similar situation with a fairly rare 928. I am going to but a 3/4 clip on the front of the car. In order to get the engine out without any hacking or cutting, I took it to a friendly body shop and had had them do a "rough" frame pull. It only cost me 200 bucks worth of frame machine time and it got things fairly close to where they belong. This enabled me to make a decision on how salvageable the chassis would be and also opened things up so I can get the engine out.
If I was facing your situation, I would keep that historic car (vin,chassis and original engine) until someday when you or maybe someone else has the will and the dollars to bring it back to life. If I had to draw a line on what constitutes the “original” car, I would certainly think that the tub and engine would be enough. Please….don’t cut up or discard the original tub. Everything is repairable but not everything is replaceable.
![Frown](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
#27
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How did you move things around on the frame machine? the problem is that the front clip is toast and one wheel is stuffed into the chassis and will have to be surgically removed.
![Frown](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
Even though I plan to cut off the front clip I still want the old wrinkled one to be in it's correct position when a I cut it off. This will make fit-up of the new parts easier. They dropped my car up on the frame rack with a forklift. It also had a stuffed wheel and would not roll.
#28
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Mark are you thinking of keeping the Hcar and later restoring it yourself, or are you thinking of letting someone else take it and do the restoration?
If its the latter, maybe that someone else would like to help out in the take apart stage doing things that perhaps are more costly than you would otherwise do, but that would better preserve the car?
Once the torch is sparked up its kind of irreversible.
If its the latter, maybe that someone else would like to help out in the take apart stage doing things that perhaps are more costly than you would otherwise do, but that would better preserve the car?
Once the torch is sparked up its kind of irreversible.
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#29
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This is very true, I have fixed cars that have been plenty bad but I sure didn't buy one that somebody had hacked to pieces. You need to be very careful what you do as the old rails skirt etc are often needed to re-straighten. Be ultra conservative with what you touch and I don't see what the big deal is with starting it. Remove the engine and assess it on the bench, this would be more accurate (dial indicator on the crank etc) and you will get a better look at things too.
Greg
By Danglerb
Greg
By Danglerb
Mark are you thinking of keeping the Hcar and later restoring it yourself, or are you thinking of letting someone else take it and do the restoration?
If its the latter, maybe that someone else would like to help out in the take apart stage doing things that perhaps are more costly than you would otherwise do, but that would better preserve the car?
Once the torch is sparked up its kind of irreversible.
If its the latter, maybe that someone else would like to help out in the take apart stage doing things that perhaps are more costly than you would otherwise do, but that would better preserve the car?
Once the torch is sparked up its kind of irreversible.