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Odometer Repair Procedure w/pics

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Old 12-27-2009, 12:18 AM
  #31  
donmcpeters
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Dwayne,

First of all, many thanks for posting these step-by-step instructions...they are simply amazing! It probably took you as long to post all of this as it did to make the repair!

Which brings me to my question...

...I have an '86.5 928S, and last week the main and trip odometers stopped working. Everything else is still working fine. From what I gather on other sites, and from your post here, it's the little gear that should, but now won't.

I am no mechanic by any means. I change my own oil, do brake jobs, and have even done a tune-up or two in my day (but not on the 928, of course!). So having said that, is this something you think I should tackle myself? And the one thing you didn't put in your post (unless I missed it), was how long did this job take you start to finish? I have a wonderful mechanic, but I'd still like to save the labor, if I think I might be able to take this on myself. But sometimes it's just worth the extra money to put the 928 in the hands of my mechanic, than to try to fight it myself. Just ask my wife, as she has witnessed my impatience as things don't go to plan when I attempt auto repairs!

Thanks in advance for your advice...
Old 12-27-2009, 12:43 PM
  #32  
Dwayne
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Originally Posted by donmcpeters
Dwayne,

First of all, many thanks for posting these step-by-step instructions...they are simply amazing! It probably took you as long to post all of this as it did to make the repair!

Which brings me to my question...

...I have an '86.5 928S, and last week the main and trip odometers stopped working. Everything else is still working fine. From what I gather on other sites, and from your post here, it's the little gear that should, but now won't.

I am no mechanic by any means. I change my own oil, do brake jobs, and have even done a tune-up or two in my day (but not on the 928, of course!). So having said that, is this something you think I should tackle myself? And the one thing you didn't put in your post (unless I missed it), was how long did this job take you start to finish? I have a wonderful mechanic, but I'd still like to save the labor, if I think I might be able to take this on myself. But sometimes it's just worth the extra money to put the 928 in the hands of my mechanic, than to try to fight it myself. Just ask my wife, as she has witnessed my impatience as things don't go to plan when I attempt auto repairs!

Thanks in advance for your advice...
Hello donmcpeters,
Thanks for the feedback on this repair procedure and for your question. Chances are good that the gear has failed given the main odo and trip odo both failed while the speedometer continues to work. It certainly is worth taking a look.

As far as rating this procedure, I rate it at Intermediate Level for the non-mechanics such as myself. It is a tedious job when repairing the odometer gear and ensuring there is no slop in the tumblers so you won't have the same problem show up again. Removing the pod and instrumentation cluster is also tedious for first timers. I remember the first time I removed my pod and instrumentation cluster and it took about 4-5 hours - only because I took my time and marked and labeled EVERYTHING and took pictures of EVERYTHING. Now, I can remove the pod and instrumentation cluster in 30 minutes or less easily. I am no mechanic either. However, there are 3 things that work well for me in performing this work and will probably answer your question.

1) Mechanically inclined - Like to fix things and solve mechanical problems
2) A lot of patience - never get in a hurry - the job "takes as long as it takes" to do it right
3) Count on things not going perfectly smooth - things will break and the unexpected will happen most of the time

If you are also mechanically inclined and have patience, I believe you can perform this repair without difficulty. However, I appreciate your honesty above about things not going right when performing auto repairs (and things often don't go right when working on 928s as old as ours), you may find the whole experience a PITA. That being said, it's a personal decision as to how one responds when things don't go right. As far as time to perform the procedure, I would estimate 2 full days (between 16 and 20 hours) to complete this repair for a first timer.

I hope this helps and would like to hear about the repair regardless of which path you decide to take. I look forward to hearing from you. THANKS!

Last edited by Dwayne; 12-27-2009 at 11:51 PM.
Old 12-27-2009, 01:03 PM
  #33  
lrpman
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Well, this is the best how to I have ever seen. Put it on a CD and sell it as a DIY project. Better and easier to follow than the factory information.
Old 12-27-2009, 03:22 PM
  #34  
M. Requin
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Dwayne of course is right. Another way to put it, if you like things like tying flies, this is for you, but when things go wrong if you just look for a bigger hammer, think about it. However, I think with the help you can get here most anything is do-able, IF when things go south you remember to take a break (refreshment of your choice) and consult your fellow members here. Good luck!
Old 12-29-2009, 02:23 AM
  #35  
checkmate1996
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Dwayne, I like the 'keep the switches in the pod' method. I am going to try that....great job on the write up! Of course!
Old 12-29-2009, 07:11 PM
  #36  
Jim M.
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Dwayne, I think your wrong! Your VERY mechanically inclined. As always, great write-up.
Old 12-30-2009, 12:51 PM
  #37  
billtool
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Mine's broke too. I'll pull the pod and send it in for repair...but this write-up is a masterpiece.
Old 12-30-2009, 04:42 PM
  #38  
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great job.........
Old 12-31-2009, 12:50 AM
  #39  
inactiveuser1
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If only we can get Dwayne to do a supercharger job like this:-)
Great work Dwayne!
Old 12-31-2009, 01:45 AM
  #40  
Jakkq
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I took mine out, but the white plastic bar piece that goes under the chip piece snapped off, so it will not insert into the connector. Should I just glue it back on? I guess there's not really any way to necessarily replace it since it snapped.
Old 12-31-2009, 10:53 PM
  #41  
Dwayne
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Originally Posted by Jakkq
I took mine out, but the white plastic bar piece that goes under the chip piece snapped off, so it will not insert into the connector. Should I just glue it back on? I guess there's not really any way to necessarily replace it since it snapped.
Hello Jakkq,
I'm not sure of the pieces you describe above. Do you have a picture? Is your odometer still out of the car?

THANKS for the comments, guys!
Old 12-31-2009, 11:31 PM
  #42  
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are you talking about the plastic "bar" under one of the three harness connection ports? mine broke and i just super glued it back on.
Old 01-03-2010, 06:00 PM
  #43  
Jerry Feather
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I'm posting in this excellent thread by Dwayne because there is something in it that Steve needs about adjusting his cluster switch to eliminate the scraping noise in his Shark. Thanks.

Jerry
Old 01-03-2010, 07:43 PM
  #44  
whiteNSXs
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Dwayne,
I am not mechanically inclined at all so please forgive me. Here is my stupid question since I am looking for the proper grease.
You said using "dielectric" grease on the horn contact. I thought dielectric grease is to insulate electrical current, not to conduct it, no?
Thanks,
Steve
Old 01-03-2010, 07:48 PM
  #45  
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Dielectric grease conducts, but repels water. thats why they use it on plug wires etc, to fight rust and water.


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