Water Pump Impeller Repair Pieces
08-24-2009, 04:08 PM
#46
Former Sponsor
Thread Starter
Is this tool going to be for sale for rent? I also had this failure on the way back from SITM 2008. I will be interested come winter time.
My car is up and running, but does run a little hotter. It is only marginal, but that may be due to my C&R radiator and 928MS dual fans.
Are you planning on just using a hand drill and special cutter to clean up the block?
My car is up and running, but does run a little hotter. It is only marginal, but that may be due to my C&R radiator and 928MS dual fans.
Are you planning on just using a hand drill and special cutter to clean up the block?
Yes, slow turning 90 degree air hand drill.
08-24-2009, 04:12 PM
#48
Former Sponsor
Thread Starter
Porsche should have put an insert in there, from the beginning, or designed a "stand alone" water pump...like almost everyone else does. Failures like this are going to happen...no matter who makes the pumps. So, like any good update/repair I'm not sure it matters. I'd probably buy an "extra" insert, if it was me, so that 20 years down the road, it could be replaced.
08-24-2009, 04:16 PM
#49
Former Sponsor
Thread Starter
Once it has the insert its forever immune to impeller creep, but I do kinda wonder what happens when the impeller gets to the securing bolts, what breaks?
Plastic impeller and no issues though?
Only time and miles will tell if the repaired block is improved, about the same, or less than a virgin block. I suspect when looking at a whole car it would be lost in the noise of everything else thats more important. Even just looking at two motors, other issues are likely to be the deciding factors.
Having the insert would not prevent me from buying a car or motor, but I am not sure if or how much it might effect the price.
Plastic impeller and no issues though?
Only time and miles will tell if the repaired block is improved, about the same, or less than a virgin block. I suspect when looking at a whole car it would be lost in the noise of everything else thats more important. Even just looking at two motors, other issues are likely to be the deciding factors.
Having the insert would not prevent me from buying a car or motor, but I am not sure if or how much it might effect the price.
08-24-2009, 04:24 PM
#50
Rennlist Member
Tom in Austin (to answer your question)...
When my pump failed, I did not have much warning at all. I believe the point that the WP started machining the block was while driving in the mountains at the end of SITM. It was raining, so we were not pushing the pace at all. I remember running great with the temp gauge at 1/2 just as it always did. The needle started to rise, got to 3/4 and then immediately backed off to 1/2. Did not think much of it. it drove great the rest of the night and all the way back to the MO/IL border and the low coolant light came on. I guess this was when the seals finally gave up. I am still surprised and relieved it made it back all the way from NC with this happening.
Long story short was that I am not sure you will ever be able to tell what is happening until it is too late. One thing I would check would be to keep an eye on the coolant. The reservoir was saturated with aluminum and steel in the coolant. This is a definite sign of WP block machining, but too late of course.
Right now, with my C&R radiator and 928MS fans, my temp runs between 1/2 and 3/4, so even with these mods, it still runs a touch hot.
When my pump failed, I did not have much warning at all. I believe the point that the WP started machining the block was while driving in the mountains at the end of SITM. It was raining, so we were not pushing the pace at all. I remember running great with the temp gauge at 1/2 just as it always did. The needle started to rise, got to 3/4 and then immediately backed off to 1/2. Did not think much of it. it drove great the rest of the night and all the way back to the MO/IL border and the low coolant light came on. I guess this was when the seals finally gave up. I am still surprised and relieved it made it back all the way from NC with this happening.
Long story short was that I am not sure you will ever be able to tell what is happening until it is too late. One thing I would check would be to keep an eye on the coolant. The reservoir was saturated with aluminum and steel in the coolant. This is a definite sign of WP block machining, but too late of course.
Right now, with my C&R radiator and 928MS fans, my temp runs between 1/2 and 3/4, so even with these mods, it still runs a touch hot.
08-24-2009, 04:38 PM
#51
Official Bay Area Patriot
Fuse 24 Assassin
Rennlist Member
Fuse 24 Assassin
Rennlist Member
Mine use to run like that. For the heck of it, I decided to see what a lower temperature thermostat would do to the temperatures. My car's temperature is at the quarter mark on the freeway and only gets as high as the half-mark at a stoplight if not just a little over. It has never hit 3/4s since I did this. Most people I've talked to condemned the lower-temp thermostat. Why? I don't know. I just know the car runs cooler with it. I haven't seen what my block looks like after all of my water pumps. My nextr TB/WP will be done with my own hands and I will finally have the first look to see if my block has been machined by any metal impeller pumps.
08-24-2009, 04:52 PM
#52
Nordschleife Master
Thermostats set the minimum engine operating temp, and do nothing to the max temp which is set by the cooling capacity of the radiator and the heat generated by the motor. Starting from a lower temperature does mean it will take some time for the temperature to increase, but it doesn't prevent or slow down the rate of increase.
Main down side is that engine temp moves around, so best A/F moves around.
Main down side is that engine temp moves around, so best A/F moves around.
08-24-2009, 09:23 PM
#54
Race Director
great product.......way to go guys!!!
Just think about all the blocks that are currently "junk" that now can be saved......so I guess only thrust bearing is a block killer nowdays...
NICE
Just think about all the blocks that are currently "junk" that now can be saved......so I guess only thrust bearing is a block killer nowdays...
NICE
08-24-2009, 09:30 PM
#56
Nordschleife Master
I recall someone mentioned a TBF block in Canada got repaired a few years ago using an insert that's been running since? Might have been Colin that mentioned it? (although it wasnb't his car)
08-25-2009, 02:52 AM
#58
Nordschleife Master
TBF can be prevented, and anything can be repaired. What I think is often the case is that the cheapest alternative is a used motor compared to "any" reason that requires disassembling block.
08-25-2009, 07:34 AM
#59
Nordschleife Master
Found the reference - it was Imre.. close, you're both north of the border. Kind of like how Sydney is close to Perth, being in the same country and all 
Here's the reference to using a machined insert to repair a damaged thrust bearing:
https://rennlist.com/forums/6526333-post9.html
Here's the reference to using a machined insert to repair a damaged thrust bearing:
https://rennlist.com/forums/6526333-post9.html
08-25-2009, 10:27 AM
#60
Craic Head
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
<snip>
Keep in mind- this thing is still on its way to Greg, and he hasn't tried it to see if works with the engine in the car- It works fine with the engine out, and I think it will be do-able in the car, but we don't have that first run done yet. You may need to hire a contortionist who knows how to machine things to get it done...Or, saw off the front of the car...haha!
Keep in mind- this thing is still on its way to Greg, and he hasn't tried it to see if works with the engine in the car- It works fine with the engine out, and I think it will be do-able in the car, but we don't have that first run done yet. You may need to hire a contortionist who knows how to machine things to get it done...Or, saw off the front of the car...haha!