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How/where best to disconnect the lines from the tranny to drop it?
Did you intend to answer this or just show the routing? Anyway, the joints you show in your 2nd and 3rd pictures are where we just did it at Jim's place a few days ago. Also, we chose to lower the tranny and suspension as a unit. Not sure why the WSM procedure calls for the tranny to be suspended separately by chain. We had no problem with the whole thing on a floor jack. Then we just loosened the tranny mounts and lifted the tranny off the crossmember as the 5-speed is rather light.
I was hoping to get an answer to the question, because I would like to drop the rear and have everything clean (and do the trans mounts, R&R the axle bolts, etc, in a classic WYAIT sort of frenzy.
Then realized I could sort of make a document of the complete routing, 'cause I was sort of curious where it all went. The number of bits involved kind of puts upgrading to a G28.57 cooling set up in the same boat as adding rear A/C.
Thanks for the info, I should have remembered that Jim's box was coming out, as I saw the transplant recipient on Thursday.....
From gearbox forward cooling is almost identical to automatic gearbox setup. It uses several common parts including cooler. All the interesting bits are inside gearbox.
That is return line on drivers side front end.
It extends all the way to diff on inside.
There are different size holes for each gear. They get larger towards rear and should result uniform flow for all gears.
Thanks for the number. It seems also manual gearbox lost MY info from number. It just happened little later than in automatics as '92 MY ROW and early '93 MY US 5sp should still have N in it. This is '92 MY ROW automatic GTS diff. Original in Amethyst car is similar without MY info.
Disconnect both lines right at the front of the transmission and leave the "hard" lines attached to the transmission. Nice corrosion! Do I feel another trip to the plater coming up?
I'm taking apart 2 GTS gearboxes, tomorrow morning. Hardly notice a 3rd one. Fresh is best...obviously that car has not just been driven to church on Sunday.
The box shifted fine when I drove it, wonder what the synchros look like.....
Definitely have more plating to do, I missed a couple of engine compartment pieces, the Y pipe, hood hinges, brake MC brackets, etc. All the exhaust heat shield screws are crappy, etc, and so on.
I am wondering if you have some additional photos on the lines, particularly where the rear flex lines attach to the hard lines that head towards the front of the car.
I am researching a 5-spd conversion on my auto and I am thinking I can mate the rear lines from the 5-sped to the front lines of the auto using a custom fabricated flexible line. This way I only need to source the rear lines rather than the full set
Also would you happen to know the metric thread size of the flare fittings (item 17 in the manual transmission picture below)?
08-17-2009, 01:58 AM
Anyway, the joints you show in your 2nd and 3rd pictures are where we just did it at Jim's place a few days ago. Also, we chose to lower the tranny and suspension as a unit. Not sure why the WSM procedure calls for the tranny to be suspended separately by chain. We had no problem with the whole thing on a floor jack. Then we just loosened the tranny mounts and lifted the tranny off the crossmember as the 5-speed is rather light.
