Pete L

I just finished Motor Mounts (928 Motorsport Anchor mounts), Rod Bearings, 928 baffle, Oil Pan (928 Motorsport stud kit), rebuilding of oil cooler hoses to radiator, new thermo springs, solid rack bearings (928 Motorsport)., etc in my early 86.

My car has 170K on it, with 11K on track miles and bearings were clean and almost new looking, (see photo). I don't use Amsoil

What is procedure to use starter to spin engine/oil pump to prime/build initial oil pressure please. Don't want to ruin LH etc

Next up is AC, then front suspension (lower ball joint boot cracked) rear transmission mounts,

Apprecial all the help from list to date

aggravation

Mrmerlin gave me a tip on this, I used STP oil treatment on the oil pump impeller just before installing it. Because of the viscosity of the STP it clings to the moving surfaces allowing the pump to create a vacuum right away when the pump spins up so it is able to move fluid right away. I believe I also removed the LH relay to be able to spin the motor with the starter so the engine wouldn't fire up.

Consider this more of a thread bump than an authoritative answer, the experts will chime in shortly I'm sure...

Dan87951

Disconnect both coils and crank the engine in a no start condition until you see oil pressure build up on your gauge.

aggravation

If you disconnect the coils make sure you remove power to the coil not power leaving the coil because powering a coil with no load on it is bad for the coil.

ZEUS+

The best way to crank engine is to jump starter relay with ignition off. That way there will be no fuel or spark to engine. STP or petroleum jelly in pump is a sure way to prime pump. There is also this:http://www.northernautoparts.com/Pro...tModelId=11173

Bill Ball

Wow! Those bearings look like they were good for at least another 170K miles!

Pete L

Thank you for the replies. Can not prime the oil pump as all the work I have done is from the "pan side".

If I hook up a remote starter, keep ignition switch off and turn engine until I see oil pressure, that should work, correct????

Remote starter, just do the alligator clips between two terminals on the engine correct??

SeanR

Yup, exactly what I was thinking. I startled Mrmerlin last week when I had the start switch in my hand. He didn't know I had one hooked up. (thought he saw me holding it)

You can jump pin 13 on the 14 pin connector and bridge it with the jump post. Use the proper switch though.

Imo000

Pull the fuel injection relay and crank it over for 10 sec and then you are good to go. Those con rod bearings are in perfect condition.

zoltan944

+1 this is the response I seen years ago and went with it ever since. Doesn't get much easier than that

dr bob

Pete--

If the engine is --really-- dry, I like to pull the plugs and ignition relay, plus the fuel pump fuse, and crank it that way with minimum cylinder pressure until there's oil pressure indicated. Then restore plugs, relay, fuse, and proceed to start te car normally. I'm sure you pre-lubed the rod bearings at assembly, but there's no need to risk any dry rubbing if you can avoid it. The pump needs to draw from the sump and get primed, then fill the filter, the bypass and temp control passages, the oil cooler, the lifters, the mains and the crank throws before pressure starts to get close to normal. Getting the cylinder pressure reduced with the plugs out will help that some.

David L. Lutz

When I reinstalled my oil pump I just used 40w oil and months later when the engine was back in the car I spun it just as Dr. Bob is stating above and it only took about 3 spins of 3 seconds or so and it showed pressure on the guage. With a fresh battery and the plugs out it spins very easily.

Pete L

Thanks all

Will go with Dr. Bobs procedure, simple and don't have to buy another tool!

Should get it fired in a few days and will report then

Dr Bob, wish to get your expertise on A/C when I start next project. You are Glendale, correct?

Leon Speed

What is the advantage of a remote starter?

Imo000

The remote starter is nothing more than two wires and a momentary switch connected to the solenoid of the tarter. The advantage is that you can engage the starter from outside the car.