My PKlamp Experience
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From: Buckeye, AZ
Blue. I avoid Loctite Red unless called for. It requires a torch to release. Yes, Blue is the weakest, but I think the PKclamp bolts are only 17 ft lbs. Green is more like Red in that it requires heat to remove, but it differs in that it is used post-assembly (hence, the wicking ability). Blue should be fine applied pre-assembly.
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From: K-town, Germany
Blue. I avoid Loctite Red unless called for. It requires a torch to release. Yes, Blue is the weakest, but I think the PKclamp bolts are only 17 ft lbs. Green is more like Red in that it requires heat to remove, but it differs in that it is used post-assembly (hence, the wicking ability). Blue should be fine applied pre-assembly.
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From: Buckeye, AZ
I still think the PKlamp is effective even if ultimately the Superclamp is the definitive solution. I am waiting for another reason to drop the TT before I install the Superclamp. My TT is still quiet and vibration-free, and the PKlamp, which is plain simple to install, has so far eliminated the rapid build-up in preload on the flexplate, despite the tiny movement found on the latest check. Perhaps removing the main clamp and cleaning it and the TT shaft splines and installing a new main clamp bolt would allow the PKlamp to completely lock down the shaft. The clamp can be unbolted from flexplate (while noting orientation for reinstallation), the flexplate unbolted and removed from the flywheel, which should allow the clamp to be slid far enough off the shaft to properly clean them.
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From: Buckeye, AZ
Andy: Missed your question. The rear shaft clamp is essentially locked down by the fact that the bolt passes through a locating groove in the shaft.
Today I rechecked the PKlamp after about 2500 more miles. No additional movement at all. I checked crank endplay (unchanged) and retorqued everything and updated the first post in this thread with these observations.
Today I rechecked the PKlamp after about 2500 more miles. No additional movement at all. I checked crank endplay (unchanged) and retorqued everything and updated the first post in this thread with these observations.
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Bill,
Thanks for the updates.
Agree with your plans to fit a Constantine Super Clamp as the ultimate fix, however, the PKlamp is a great interim fix, especially to standard auto cars, not everyone has a T/C or a S/C to contend with.
A Michell Thrust bearing would be the ultimate TB, but the design and fitting would be prohibitative.
Tails 1990 928S4 Auto
Thanks for the updates.
Agree with your plans to fit a Constantine Super Clamp as the ultimate fix, however, the PKlamp is a great interim fix, especially to standard auto cars, not everyone has a T/C or a S/C to contend with.
A Michell Thrust bearing would be the ultimate TB, but the design and fitting would be prohibitative.
Tails 1990 928S4 Auto
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From: West Chester, PA
I'll chime in on Bill's posting about this clamp. Put it on the GTS this past winter. I had painted the splines white before installing, and checked a week or so ago - NO movement. Only driven about 1500 miles, but I think it is a pair of suspenders - in case the original belt stretches!! Go for it Andrew.
Gary--
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From: Philly PA
dont forget to check the rear pinch bolt ,( at the TT and transaxle) if the rear bolt has never been checked it wont matter if you weld the clamp to the drive shaft the driveshaft can still move
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From: Buckeye, AZ
As a follow-up to Stan's note, the rear clamp is located by a groove in the shaft that indexes the clamp bolt, so you just need to check the clamp bolt for tightness. There is no release, adjust, retighten for the rear clamp bolt. A loose rear clamp risks stripping the TT shaft splines.
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From: Kiruna, Sweden
The cause of a drive shaft sliding inside the clamp is caused by to weak clamping force. The problem is not caused by a driveshaft which becomes shorter by applying torqe to it. There is no physical explanation to this theory. An explanation to the problem can be found in the post "Explanation to drive shaft clamping problem".
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From: Buckeye, AZ
Added today to the original post in this thread:
Update #5: 10/13/2011, 20,300 miles and 15 months since I reset the clamp when doing crank endplay check - 239,421 on odo - no movement. See Pic.
I will be loosening the clamp since I need to repair the torque converter seal in my tranny. Time for my annual endplay check anyway. So, the interval will start over. This 20K mile interval with no movement is long enough to make me believe the PKlamp is doing what Ken intended. In the past, before I added the PKlamp, it took no more that a few K miles to get 1-3mm of movement.
Update #5: 10/13/2011, 20,300 miles and 15 months since I reset the clamp when doing crank endplay check - 239,421 on odo - no movement. See Pic.
I will be loosening the clamp since I need to repair the torque converter seal in my tranny. Time for my annual endplay check anyway. So, the interval will start over. This 20K mile interval with no movement is long enough to make me believe the PKlamp is doing what Ken intended. In the past, before I added the PKlamp, it took no more that a few K miles to get 1-3mm of movement.
