the flyin' scotsman

Great timing Ken.................just rxd my PKlamp and will fit asap.

oz928s4

This is why this site is invaluable...thanks Ken and roger i will fit this sucka tomorrow.
I am now armed

90 S-4

I just installed my PKlamp, only took a few minutes extra to install while doing
the annual clamp re-adjust. I've already purchased the Constantine clamp
about a year ago, it's going on as my ultimate & permenant fix when the
torque tube comes out, but in the mean time the PKlamp is going to give me
the extra protection I'll need, till I get to that point.

Dannyfumi

I just installed my PKLAMP yesterday as well!!

Danny

c_span

I like the "history" that's documented on your flex-plate

jeff spahn

There are gremlins in your car writing on your flexplate. Oh, and I am installing my PKlamp next week sometime and going to write on my flexplate since gremlins don't live here in Iowa where it is cold

M. Requin

Yep that's cool, I'm going to do it on mine. This is like watchmakers do when they put their initials inside the case of a watch they repair. Neat idea!

Bill Ball

Today I updated the original post to include another check of the flexplate and PKlamp. There was SOME movement. See the first post. It was not enough to cause me to do anything, but it appears did move a fraction of a mm over the last 6 months. In the past I would observe 2-3mm of movement in just a few months and some measurable bowing of the flexplate and I would always relieve it. When I installed the PKlamp, I set the flexplate at 0.3 of NEGATIVE preload, which is my interpretation of what is called for in the WSM. So, that might be gone now, and the flexplate is neutral. Regardless, unless there is a MM or more of movement, I can't see any reason to do anything.

Also, I did nothing special when I installed the PKlamp. I didn't clean the TT shaft splines or the main clamp, nor did I install a new main clamp bolt, which might have been a good idea. If there is any significant movement, I will remove both clamps, clean them, clean the shaft splines and install a new main clamp bolt. That might be a fairer test of whether the PKlamp can do the job.

NoVector

^^^^ Bill, Did you use any Locktite? I'm kind of confuesed what color to use... PKen manual says blue, some web sites say green (because it penetrates) yet I think red is supposed to be the strongest(?)

Thanks / Bruce

Black Sea RD

Hi Bill,

The WSMs do not currently call for any negative pre-load. To paraphrase the current instructions they just call for the front flexplate clamp to be tightened as the last step after a TT change.

The pre-load was used with the earlier circlip, bearing and washers set up discontinued, IIRC, sometime after MY 1984.

Your results are what we noticed when we tested a helper clamp set up like the Pklamp. The helper clamp relies on the clamping force of the original clamp to work, most of which are no longer clamping well anymore.

Welcome back by the way,

PorKen

[CHORUS=CHEERS BAR]
Bill!
[/CHORUS]

How many miles were stock/supercharged?

brianrheffron

Constantine reckons that the original clamps "are no longer clamping very well".
Would it be an improvement to cut off the original clamp and install two (or even
three if there is space) PKlamps . The PKlamps could be installed at 90 degrees
for two or 60 degrees for three clamping the splines in several directions rather
than one.
I notice that in the pic posted by 90 S4 the PKlamp is in almost the same orientation
as the original clamp. Surely it would work better at 90 degrees to original.
I have always felt that the original clamp is very rigid except at the cut opposite
the bolt and that it dosn't clamp the splines radially but mearly pinches them "top
and bottom". Installing the PKlamp at 90 degrees would at least pinch the splines
"side to side".

Bill Ball

Hi Constantine. You're right that the negative preload was with the clip, but I didn't see any update to that procedure post-clip era. Must have missed that. I can't see why it would change, but I'll go with that. At this point I think the flexplate is neutral, so it should be in accord with what is called for. {EDIT: I went back and found that you and Tails both noted that Porsche changed the procedure to eliminate the negative preload. Pardon my forgetfulness. Here is Tails' post: https://rennlist.com/forums/4317083-post48.html ]

It's a bit surprising to me that the assisted clamp held perfectly for months, something the unassisted clamp would not do, only to move a smidge most recently. I haven't been doing any more burnouts or hard driving than usual. So, I'll leave it until it moves more.

Bill Ball

This is all supercharged. As I noted, the unassisted clamp would never hold position even for a month, and would reach a steady state of 2-3mm, which never produced any measureable change in crank endplay. So, I'm still happy with the PKlamp's effectiveness. If there is no further movement, it will stay as is, as I believe the flexplate is now neutral, which Constantine noted is the correct position, not negative pre-loaded as I had set it. Again, neither the main clamp or its bolt have ever been replaced or even cleaned, so this could have been done better, even though your instructions do not call for cleaning or replacement of the main clamp and bolt.

Mongo

I am considering getting one. I am doing flexplate checks and clamp releases every 6 months now out of paranoia. Doing another one this weekend for piece of mind..