euro "s" intake and twin dizzy f/s
07-07-2009, 02:03 PM
#16
Racer
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Location: Taunton, UK
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07-07-2009, 02:19 PM
#17
Racer
Thread Starter
Ok fog light or not I can put my fist in the throttle body. The maf conversion is easy. Fords are powered by 12 volts so find an ignition switched source. Ground the correct wire. They have two more wires one is a 0-5 volt output. Pick the housing size based on power (I used the guts from a contour meter inside the base to a 4.6liter). The meters are built by hitachi and can actually put out over 5 volts if the airflow exceeds their design parameters (which shut's the fuel essentially off in my experience). A unit like an safc neo simply gets a tach signal and intercepts the signal wire to the pcm. You tune up or down at different rpm settings. Connect it to a TPS and you can tune two different maps (like cruise and wot). The response rate on a MAF is different than a flappy so tuning is essential just to send the computer the "right" signal. I noticed with big temperature fluctuations, atleast on the turbo cars, I had to retune slightly.
07-07-2009, 03:26 PM
#20
Nordschleife Master
The Ljet barn door air flow meter is 0-9v output, John used the SplitSecond maf conversion box with a special mod to increase output range beyond 5v. No clue on how well it works, but its not cheap.
Euro cars have a square red light down by the license plate area, and turn signal marker lights behind each of the front wheels. The Euro S was CIS from 80 to 83, and LH2.2 from 84 to 86, but a lower power Euro non S similar to US 78/79 CIS was also offered 77 to 82. Over the years LOTS of parts get swapped around so the only sure way to know what you have is to check part or casting numbers on the heads, cams, block, and intake.
Euro cars have a square red light down by the license plate area, and turn signal marker lights behind each of the front wheels. The Euro S was CIS from 80 to 83, and LH2.2 from 84 to 86, but a lower power Euro non S similar to US 78/79 CIS was also offered 77 to 82. Over the years LOTS of parts get swapped around so the only sure way to know what you have is to check part or casting numbers on the heads, cams, block, and intake.
07-07-2009, 03:37 PM
#21
Racer
Thread Starter
Ok I will debate everything else later. It IS a euro s intake I've measured cam lift etc. Non-s cars don't have the big throttle body and runners. Any doubters hold on I will post pics as soon as I can. So provided it's not a part from a flintstone mobile let me know if you're interested.
07-07-2009, 05:18 PM
#23
Rennlist Member
Ok I will debate everything else later. It IS a euro s intake I've measured cam lift etc. Non-s cars don't have the big throttle body and runners. Any doubters hold on I will post pics as soon as I can. So provided it's not a part from a flintstone mobile let me know if you're interested.
07-07-2009, 05:49 PM
#24
Racer
Thread Starter
I still have the entire engine. Sorry but I am keeping the cams. I sleep with them at night.
Here's some pics of the monster throttle body and the car it came from:
Here's some pics of the monster throttle body and the car it came from:
07-07-2009, 05:53 PM
#25
Addict
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07-07-2009, 06:04 PM
#28
Racer
Thread Starter
Quote:
Originally Posted by jackson101
A red rear fog lamp, makes your car a Euro??? Someone verify please.
Mine has two red rear fog lights... Does that make it even better than a normal Euro?
Originally Posted by jackson101
A red rear fog lamp, makes your car a Euro??? Someone verify please.
Mine has two red rear fog lights... Does that make it even better than a normal Euro?
Hey mine's a super euro!...wait those are my brake lights.
07-07-2009, 06:34 PM
#30
Nordschleife Master
