Radiator end tank replacement
06-04-2009, 12:49 AM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Radiator end tank replacement
I successfully replaced the passenger side end tank on my radiator. And I didn't write someone a check to do it. I broke the first tab I touched and that was it. I sat and thought about it, and I figured out how to replace the end tank without breaking more tabs. I was successful.
Unfortunately, my transmission cooler developed a bit of a leak so it filled the rest of the radiator with transmission fluid. So I had to remove the radiator and the tank (I was successful, and didn't break any tabs.) But I need to replace my transmission cooler.
So here's the deal. If someone comes up with a leak-free transmission cooler, I'll do a write up showing how I did it.
Unfortunately, my transmission cooler developed a bit of a leak so it filled the rest of the radiator with transmission fluid. So I had to remove the radiator and the tank (I was successful, and didn't break any tabs.) But I need to replace my transmission cooler.
So here's the deal. If someone comes up with a leak-free transmission cooler, I'll do a write up showing how I did it.
06-04-2009, 01:59 AM
#3
Team Owner
it has been said that if you heat the tabs with a torch they will soften and be able to be maleable and not brittle.
Dr Bod suggested to flush the cooling system out with some tide added to the fresh water, otherwise all of the cooling lines will soften and fail early
Dr Bod suggested to flush the cooling system out with some tide added to the fresh water, otherwise all of the cooling lines will soften and fail early
06-04-2009, 03:46 AM
#5
Team Owner
it helps prevent the tabs from snapping off, so once heated the aluminum bends easily to its new position.
Good luck with your car!
Good luck with your car!
06-04-2009, 09:41 AM
#7
Rennlist Member
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06-04-2009, 10:27 AM
#8
Nordschleife Master
The heating is what I suggested Stan.
And it is recommended but to a fairly specific range. By heating it you anneal the aluminum making it maluable and helps to prevent stress risers and the metal from just snapping off.
And it is recommended but to a fairly specific range. By heating it you anneal the aluminum making it maluable and helps to prevent stress risers and the metal from just snapping off.
06-04-2009, 10:28 AM
#9
Team Owner
Thanks Colin
06-04-2009, 11:11 AM
#10
Drifting
Thread Starter
I don't have pictures, simply because when I get into something, I don't like to stop and take pics.
1. Cut off as much of the top and bottom of the tank as you can. I used a cut-off wheel on an angle grinder.
2. Cut out the end of the end tank.
3. While it's laying flat on the table, roll the edge of the tank up like you're trying to fold it up and over onto the radiator. It (the plastic) will probably break up as you do this, but you'll also move a lot of those tabs at once. On the side with the trans cooler, make sure you remove it as soon as you get it accessible.
4. For any pieces still left that don't want to easily come out, pry up on the retainer, and DON'T do it on the tabs. The way to pry it out of the way is to lightly tap a skinny screwdriver in between the tabs and gradually work your way along the edges.
5. When you go to install the new tank, you may have to open up the retainer a little more. I used a needle nose vice grip. It fits nicely between the tabs.
6. Once you get the tank into position, I used some woodworking clamps to compress it.
7. Since the whole retainer was moved, I just had to hammer it back down to secure the tank. I supported the bottom side with a dolly, and hammered along the top, flipped and repeated.
8. To make certain all was secure, I used another vice grip that was as wide as the tabs. I went around the entire thing and gave each one a slight squeeze.
Don't try to remove the 36mm nuts that secure the trans cooler with an impact gun unless you want to get stuck asking people if they've got an old, bad radiator with a good cooler they'd like to get rid of.
Sorry I don't have any pics. Sorry if my explanation doesn't make sense or seems a little vague.
1. Cut off as much of the top and bottom of the tank as you can. I used a cut-off wheel on an angle grinder.
2. Cut out the end of the end tank.
3. While it's laying flat on the table, roll the edge of the tank up like you're trying to fold it up and over onto the radiator. It (the plastic) will probably break up as you do this, but you'll also move a lot of those tabs at once. On the side with the trans cooler, make sure you remove it as soon as you get it accessible.
4. For any pieces still left that don't want to easily come out, pry up on the retainer, and DON'T do it on the tabs. The way to pry it out of the way is to lightly tap a skinny screwdriver in between the tabs and gradually work your way along the edges.
5. When you go to install the new tank, you may have to open up the retainer a little more. I used a needle nose vice grip. It fits nicely between the tabs.
6. Once you get the tank into position, I used some woodworking clamps to compress it.
7. Since the whole retainer was moved, I just had to hammer it back down to secure the tank. I supported the bottom side with a dolly, and hammered along the top, flipped and repeated.
8. To make certain all was secure, I used another vice grip that was as wide as the tabs. I went around the entire thing and gave each one a slight squeeze.
Don't try to remove the 36mm nuts that secure the trans cooler with an impact gun unless you want to get stuck asking people if they've got an old, bad radiator with a good cooler they'd like to get rid of.
Sorry I don't have any pics. Sorry if my explanation doesn't make sense or seems a little vague.
06-04-2009, 12:54 PM
#12
The Parts Whisperer
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06-04-2009, 01:40 PM
#13
Rennlist Member
Can you use an OB oil cooler? I have the one that I took off of my OE radiator -- it wasn't leaking when I removed it. It is still attached to the side tank which also was not leaking, though it has the hole for the fan switch in it. I removed it from the scrap radiator by bending/snapping the tabs off. 
06-04-2009, 07:17 PM
#15
Rennlist Member
OK... you will probably have to re-seal where it penetrates the side tank -- what is used, o-rings? PM your zipcode so I can calculate shipping. Give me a day or two to get it packed up and weighed, then it's yours for the shipping cost.