I guess " it is never done"!. My wife thinks I am a mad Scientist.:

I had some spare time today to finsh my version of the extended hight center console and lined it with a matching 2-tone suede. Big thanks to ROB BUDD, for stitching the crest onto the lid cover.

Then I decieded that I was not happy with my new dash console because when the shifter is in park it half covers the Nav. screen. So I chopped 2" off of the auto shifter handle and lock mechanism so it would not overlap the screen.

Tell me what you think.

 

Leather overload. (in a good way)

I velcro'ed the credit card Blaupunkt remote to the back of my steering wheel and fingertip control it by feel.

 

Did you put those 6's in down low on the dorr? I'm thinking about trying that with fiberglass. Really like the burgandy, silver two tone... Nicely done

 

What's the mounting depth of your nav screen? I've had thoughts of eventually doing something similar in tossing the ash tray in favor of a double-din unit.

 

Yes the 6.5 In the lower part of the door panels are fiberglassed in. Same with the upper part of the door. I added a 1.5 tweeter and a 4" mid to the upper part of the early door panels and recovered. Rear qtr's also have the 6.5 components molded in. You can see more here in one of my prior post. I can post some pics of the mod process in a new thread if you like.

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ject-done.html

 

nice man

 

Very nice!

 

The Nav. screen is a separate screen. The drive for the Nav. is under the right front seat. I believe someone installed a dbl-din unit in the console by removing the clock area panel. You would just need to check the mounting depth. I raised the HVAC, radio and new mount for the Nav. about 1/2 inch to have enough clearance over the trans tunnel. It gave me room to spare.

 

I had that Blaupunkt Bahamas in my '87 S4 and really liked it.

 

Did the pulley work?

 

It looks like it will Mason, I still am waiting on the tensioner pulley to put the t-belt back together.

 

I like the short-shifter for the automatic. care to share what you did and how you did it?
I was afraid cutting off the lock mechanism would make it too easy to shift out of gear.

 

That looks pretty cool!

I think I would maybe play around with the shift boot though, it looks a little 'deflated' or something like that. Otherwise 'form follows function' in my book and this looks like it works perfectly as all of your mods do.

How is the shifting? Any clearance issues or knuckle busting?

 

the shift lock mechanism still works, It is triggered by a plastic rod that goes through the tube of the shifter shaft. Here is what i did and I was done in the car. I just covered everything with blankets and towels so it would not get damaged, took about 1 hour to do.

1. Remove the lower console trim, shifter bezel, boot and handle ( 2 small screws in the left and right side hold the handle on.).

You will see the shaft for the shifter, in the center of the shaft there is a black platic rod with a round head that sticks up. When you depress button an angled piece pushes the rod down on the lock mechanism. The rod is not attached it just rides up and down in the boar of the shaft. Pull the lock rod out, up through the shifter shaft, take note, there are 2 "o" rings attached that help keep is centered in the shaft, I was not able to get one of them out..did not seem to make a difference.

2. Measure and cut to desired length. I cut 2" off of mine, probably the lowest you can go?
used a hack saw while holding the shaft stationary with good pair of work gloves, Incase the saw slips!

3.You then need to recreate the notch in the shaft at the top. I drilled two 1/4 in. holes on opposite sides the same depth as the origonal slot. Then I used the hack saw again to cut across the shaft to morror the 2 slots. Followed up with a file to remove the sharp edges.

4. Take the plastic lock release shaft and use the head part upside down to make sure it slides freely in the new notch cut off and adjust accordingly.

5. Cut the release shaft to the new size by cutting the same amount of length the shaft was cut. Sand the cut end smooth and slightly round the edge. and check fit. I also took this time to clean and lube the mechanism with some CRC and lubed the lock shaft when it was installed.

6. Reinstall the shifter "t" handle on the new shaft. Make sure when you depress the handle buttom the mechanism unlocks. Mark the 2 screw holes for the handle. At this point i had to loosen the 3 10MM mount bolts so I could drill the 2 small holes to mount the shifter handle. You can either re-tap the 2 holes for the oen screws ot use 2 shallow coarse threaded screws like the ones that hole the outer window guides into place ( aprox 1/4 in screws.) too long will hit the inner shaft.

7. reassemble shifter trim.

 

Honestly - I think the nav needs to go at the top under the vents and the rest be moved down. I really don't think the screen is so practical to use that low without significant distraction from the road...

You did a nice job otherwise. I've always thought an extension to the console up over the center dash would provide a great place for a flat nav screen - although perhaps more risk of glare - perhaps a slightly hooded version there would help. Otherwise the vents are right where it ideally needs to go and there is really no working around that one on a 928!

Alan