slotted GTS rotors?
#46
ATE Cayenne rotor is what the track guys are running if they can get them under their wheels.
__________________
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
#47
Isn't there anyone who offers slotting/drilling service as well as cryogenic treatment? I thought I had read that either somewhere here or in the racing/DE forum. The slotting was effective in removing pad gasses and the cryogenic treatment made them stronger or at least less prone to cracking after either dilling or slotting.
Stoptech sells rotors but very expensive.
http://zeckhausen.com/StopTech/consumables.htm
I have full aluminum hats using standard sized GTS/94 turbo rotors on my C2 track car. Initial cost was pricey for the hats but replacement rotors ordered through Protosport end up costing considerably less than replacement stock rotors and far less than the stoptech units. They have them made up and I am on my second set got more life from these than the stock cross drilled although my C2 weighs 2950 pounds and showed no signs of cracking even with a dual driver car which gets pushed hard.
#49
Slotting is for out gassing between pad and rotor.
Cryotempering is to prevent warping/cracking from uneven heating.
Holes are for water egress. Holes also promote uneven heating and cracking.
Air helps cooling.
Bigger rotors help cooling.
Pad compound is for working within temp ranges, not cooling.
Cryotempering is to prevent warping/cracking from uneven heating.
Holes are for water egress. Holes also promote uneven heating and cracking.
Air helps cooling.
Bigger rotors help cooling.
Pad compound is for working within temp ranges, not cooling.
#50
From experience with my customers - they use solid rotors on the track. Downside is cost in that solids are more expensive than the cast hole rotors. GTS rotors are cast hole and are not prone to cracking as easy as X drilled. I have not seen slotted rotors for the GTS - not saying they are not available somewhere.
Slotting sweeps pad glazing away.
Pads have not 'gassed' for 40yrs. Incorrect use of modern pads can 'gas' but that's simply burning away the pads friction material binder. IE: Smoke. Goal: Don't use the wrong pads, drilling/holes is not the solution as a stresses pads has lost most of it's mU already.
I supported and sold primarily race brake hardware for 15 yrs.
#51
Isn't there anyone who offers slotting/drilling service as well as cryogenic treatment? I thought I had read that either somewhere here or in the racing/DE forum. The slotting was effective in removing pad gasses and the cryogenic treatment made them stronger or at least less prone to cracking after either dilling or slotting.
But throwing away 5-10% of your friction surface isn't a step forward in the energy management game.
Cryogenic work can help, but it's 50-100 bux more.
#52
And since I'm running Big Reds on an S4 it sounds like the Cayenne rotors could work, too. What makes them better?
#53
Doesn't matter how the hole got there. Internet wives tale.
Slotting sweeps pad glazing away.
Pads have not 'gassed' for 40yrs. Incorrect use of modern pads can 'gas' but that's simply burning away the pads friction material binder. IE: Smoke. Goal: Don't use the wrong pads, drilling/holes is not the solution as a stresses pads has lost most of it's mU already.
I supported and sold primarily race brake hardware for 15 yrs.
Slotting sweeps pad glazing away.
Pads have not 'gassed' for 40yrs. Incorrect use of modern pads can 'gas' but that's simply burning away the pads friction material binder. IE: Smoke. Goal: Don't use the wrong pads, drilling/holes is not the solution as a stresses pads has lost most of it's mU already.
I supported and sold primarily race brake hardware for 15 yrs.
Consideration of the pad you use how much do you need to brake and how you cool down your brakes after running them hard is very important. Many people will over brake and more than not that I have seen don't realize they don't give them proper cool down after a hard run.
#54
Consideration of the pad you use how much do you need to brake and how you cool down your brakes after running them hard is very important. Many people will over brake and more than not that I have seen don't realize they don't give them proper cool down after a hard run.
Now when I take the checkered flag I run the cool down lap a little slower but never apply the brakes to slow and when entering the pits if necessary I will use parking brake to slow and stall the car out in gear when pulling into my spot. This way the pads don't stick to the rotors,
#55
i had a terrible few years of running the holed rotors for racing. just thought it was normal to replace the rotors as they cracked after 3 weekends. solid is the way to go. not as good as the vented, but they work fine. larger diameter is better , as the GTS diameter has been a big help too.
scot went to the cayanne rotors and we made adapters for the S calipers to work on the stock hub assembly. worked fantastic. now he has the true, 13" rotors. GTS is really only 12.7".
been playing with pads and the PFC-01s are pretty good, a little better than the pagid black racing pads RS14s, but will try the DCT-70s next time from hawk.
scot went to the cayanne rotors and we made adapters for the S calipers to work on the stock hub assembly. worked fantastic. now he has the true, 13" rotors. GTS is really only 12.7".
been playing with pads and the PFC-01s are pretty good, a little better than the pagid black racing pads RS14s, but will try the DCT-70s next time from hawk.
#57
Mark:
Dump that hawk crap, get the raybestos.
Nothing out there can match them. Nothing.
Nothing...DTC, PFC...nothing.
And they will also out last them in use, and beat them in rotor wear too.
Dump that hawk crap, get the raybestos.
Nothing out there can match them. Nothing.
Nothing...DTC, PFC...nothing.
And they will also out last them in use, and beat them in rotor wear too.
#58
and PFC-01 which is their most agressive pad, was pretty good compared to the pagid black.
I think the PFC -08 is the endurance pad for the GT3 porsches. not as grippy as the PFC -01.
#59
The DCT70s have been highly recommended by the WCGT guys. however, ive heard good things about the raybestos. which ones??
and PFC-01 which is their most agressive pad, was pretty good compared to the pagid black.
I think the PFC -08 is the endurance pad for the GT3 porsches. not as grippy as the PFC -01.
and PFC-01 which is their most agressive pad, was pretty good compared to the pagid black.
I think the PFC -08 is the endurance pad for the GT3 porsches. not as grippy as the PFC -01.
Hawk gets a lot of props...bout 6yrs ago they sold to a holding company, and is mostly a Chinese product since then.
They spent a lot of effort buying out a healthy part of the racing community, byt handing out free stuff.
You want ST41 up front, and ST43 in the back. If you have a rear bias controller..then ST42..its a linear performance pad irregardless of temps...works well with bias.
And..even if something is better, once you get it for free, you deal with it, and get used to it.
They did a good job in how they did that, IMHO.
But..its not a Hawk pad surviving Nascar treatment.