ROG100

For my info does that need any modification and does it fit the 928 with GTS calipers?

cobalt

I buy mine through Protosport in Pompton Plains NJ prices are much less than listed here but he has to order them from someone I don't have the info.

Stoptech sells rotors but very expensive.

http://zeckhausen.com/StopTech/consumables.htm

I have full aluminum hats using standard sized GTS/94 turbo rotors on my C2 track car. Initial cost was pricey for the hats but replacement rotors ordered through Protosport end up costing considerably less than replacement stock rotors and far less than the stoptech units. They have them made up and I am on my second set got more life from these than the stock cross drilled although my C2 weighs 2950 pounds and showed no signs of cracking even with a dual driver car which gets pushed hard.

xschop

It could fit a GTS caliper on early or S spindles with adapters. Some trackers have traded the big Reds/Blacks for the Wiwood Integras because they kept cooking rotors and Motul fluid no matter what pad.

RKD in OKC

Slotting is for out gassing between pad and rotor.
Cryotempering is to prevent warping/cracking from uneven heating.
Holes are for water egress. Holes also promote uneven heating and cracking.
Air helps cooling.
Bigger rotors help cooling.
Pad compound is for working within temp ranges, not cooling.

Speedtoys

Doesn't matter how the hole got there. Internet wives tale.

Slotting sweeps pad glazing away.

Pads have not 'gassed' for 40yrs. Incorrect use of modern pads can 'gas' but that's simply burning away the pads friction material binder. IE: Smoke. Goal: Don't use the wrong pads, drilling/holes is not the solution as a stresses pads has lost most of it's mU already.

I supported and sold primarily race brake hardware for 15 yrs.

Speedtoys

Porterfield does.

But throwing away 5-10% of your friction surface isn't a step forward in the energy management game.

Cryogenic work can help, but it's 50-100 bux more.

Courtshark

So, you're saying stick with solid rotors, and cryo them if you can swing the $?

And since I'm running Big Reds on an S4 it sounds like the Cayenne rotors could work, too. What makes them better?

cobalt

Actually from a casting standpoint drilling the holes is different than casting them and I am sure most aftermarket manufacturers don't take the proper approach to drilling them as it takes time to do correctly. This adds additional stress risers not associated with cast holes.

Consideration of the pad you use how much do you need to brake and how you cool down your brakes after running them hard is very important. Many people will over brake and more than not that I have seen don't realize they don't give them proper cool down after a hard run.

OBehave

^^^^ I am guilty of this. In my quest for better braking I upgraded to S-4 calipers all around with 13inch Cayenne rotors up front on my S-3 track car and immediately went to Pagid blacks. Well my first full speed run down the front straight at Watkins Glen into turn 1 proved to me I over brake because the car almost came to a complete stop when I applied them. Once I peeled my face off the windshield and got used to the great difference from stock to this setup, my late braking confidence grew immensely but then at the end of the session I did not let them cool down properly and I was plagued with material transfer on the rotors which caused unbearable vibrations on the next run.
Now when I take the checkered flag I run the cool down lap a little slower but never apply the brakes to slow and when entering the pits if necessary I will use parking brake to slow and stall the car out in gear when pulling into my spot. This way the pads don't stick to the rotors,

mark kibort

i had a terrible few years of running the holed rotors for racing. just thought it was normal to replace the rotors as they cracked after 3 weekends. solid is the way to go. not as good as the vented, but they work fine. larger diameter is better , as the GTS diameter has been a big help too.
scot went to the cayanne rotors and we made adapters for the S calipers to work on the stock hub assembly. worked fantastic. now he has the true, 13" rotors. GTS is really only 12.7".
been playing with pads and the PFC-01s are pretty good, a little better than the pagid black racing pads RS14s, but will try the DCT-70s next time from hawk.

Courtshark

Thanks Mark. As far as pads, I have the PFC 08s (GT3 pads) all around. As Ken Rudd put it, they're like the Hand of God reaching down to stop you. But good Lord do they squeak once hot!

Speedtoys

Mark:

Dump that hawk crap, get the raybestos.

Nothing out there can match them. Nothing.

Nothing...DTC, PFC...nothing.


And they will also out last them in use, and beat them in rotor wear too.

mark kibort

The DCT70s have been highly recommended by the WCGT guys. however, ive heard good things about the raybestos. which ones??
and PFC-01 which is their most agressive pad, was pretty good compared to the pagid black.

I think the PFC -08 is the endurance pad for the GT3 porsches. not as grippy as the PFC -01.

Speedtoys

A lot of Hawk stuff is pretty good, just RB IMHO, is better.

Hawk gets a lot of props...bout 6yrs ago they sold to a holding company, and is mostly a Chinese product since then.

They spent a lot of effort buying out a healthy part of the racing community, byt handing out free stuff.

You want ST41 up front, and ST43 in the back. If you have a rear bias controller..then ST42..its a linear performance pad irregardless of temps...works well with bias.

And..even if something is better, once you get it for free, you deal with it, and get used to it.

They did a good job in how they did that, IMHO.


But..its not a Hawk pad surviving Nascar treatment.

BC

Which Raybestos Speed?

(Edit - I see you responded)