Keyless entry installation
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From: Buckeye, AZ
Here's two corrected versions of my idea for wiring the remote hatch release in a GTS, incorporating Alan's important correction to add a relay in the remote's ground output to the hatch motor. The second version changes the horn output wiring to use the stock horn relay rather than an external horn relay. ALAN: please look this over for any additional corrections when you get a chance. THANKS! Now, I just have to finish the hatch part of the install in my 89!
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From: Phoenix AZ
Possibly - but Bill's horn idea is a simplification I considered - The regular horn has a stand alone relay you can use (as in Bills note - details will vary by year). The seperate alarm horn doesn't have a seperate relay you can intercept so you need to add one... Kevin sounds like the horn now works for you?
There are many ways to do the hatch - so really thats what you are seeing - several options to work around the door interlock. The simplest is to remove the interlock permanently - its a bit more tricky to keep it just for the hatch pulls - but thats what all of these 3 proposed methods (Relay, Relay + Tx & Diode, Dual Relay) do... personally I think I still like my original single relay method best - fewer components to go wrong and keeps the factory switch operating function.
Alan
There are many ways to do the hatch - so really thats what you are seeing - several options to work around the door interlock. The simplest is to remove the interlock permanently - its a bit more tricky to keep it just for the hatch pulls - but thats what all of these 3 proposed methods (Relay, Relay + Tx & Diode, Dual Relay) do... personally I think I still like my original single relay method best - fewer components to go wrong and keeps the factory switch operating function.
Alan
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From: Buckeye, AZ
Hey, isn't the door lock close signal supposed to kill the inside lights immediately? I thought mine did, but now the lights stay on until the timer relay kills them. So I pulled the keyless wiring temporarily and the door lock still does not kill the lights even though the alarm arms and everything else seems normal. In the wiring diagrams for 89 I see a connection between the door lock control and the inside light relay, going from pin 7 on the lock control box to pin 31Z on the relay. That sure looks like a ground switch.
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From: Buckeye, AZ
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From: Buckeye, AZ
Anyway, I have my remote hatch release working! That only took me a few years.
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From: Roswell, GA
Possibly - but Bill's horn idea is a simplification I considered - The regular horn has a stand alone relay you can use (as in Bills note - details will vary by year). The separate alarm horn doesn't have a separate relay you can intercept so you need to add one... Kevin sounds like the horn now works for you?
Alan
Alan
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From: Park Ridge, IL (near Chicago)
I apologize, Bill. I did my hatch exactly like you did. I saw the diodes and thought they were part of the hatch scheme. I think we both arrived at the same solution independently,and for me, it has worked fine for a few years now.
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From: Phoenix AZ
Dave - OK I understand - you weren't really keeping up with the plot then....
What I posted was an update to the old S4 diagram I did years ago.
Bill posted his initial hatch update on my equally old GTS diagram - but since he has an S4 thats the one I modified for slightly better applicability - all those extra diodes serve other functions for an S4.
For truly stock equivalent functionality you need them (preserves the different behaviour between long & short keys) - however in practice who really cares (?) you can probably just connect the central locking and alarm connections directly together...
Alan
What I posted was an update to the old S4 diagram I did years ago.
Bill posted his initial hatch update on my equally old GTS diagram - but since he has an S4 thats the one I modified for slightly better applicability - all those extra diodes serve other functions for an S4.
For truly stock equivalent functionality you need them (preserves the different behaviour between long & short keys) - however in practice who really cares (?) you can probably just connect the central locking and alarm connections directly together...
Alan
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From: Buckeye, AZ
Yes, that's what I did. I only have the diode on the rear ground and the lights. Everything seems to work fine, although occasionally the lock button on the console will not work. Today it worked fine.
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From: Roswell, GA
My KE stopped working. The GTS alarm system is working fine and the key fob battery is ok. The only recent related work was when I disconnected the GTS alarm box to clean up and re-glue the 'dead pedal'
I am pretty sure the system worked before that. I checked the fuse and it is good.
How do I trace down the issue?
I am pretty sure the system worked before that. I checked the fuse and it is good.
How do I trace down the issue?
