Bill Ball

Do you get ANYTHING when you try to lock or unlock the doors? I.e., does the horn or light flash acknowledgment work (if you had that hooked up) or is it totally dead? If it's totally dead, I would check that the keyless box is getting power and ground.

Kevin in Atlanta

Silence and no light flicker. I will check the ground, too. Juice at the fuse. I will trace it.

dprantl

I had this happen once. In my case it turned out water leaked into the remote and even though the light was illuminated when pressing the buttons, the signal was not being sent. Have you tried another remote?

Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft

Kevin in Atlanta

I will check that, but the fuse at the unit is operational.

Kevin in Atlanta

Second remote same results.

Kevin in Atlanta

Looks like a flaky ground. All the jostling from pulling and installing the interior shook something loose.

I will chase it down. Thanks for the help!

jeff spahn

I want to add Keyless Entry to my 928 S4 as well. It being a 90, can I use Bill's (Alan's) last posted diagram?

Bill Ball

Hi Jeff:

'90 does not have the alarm module under the passenger seat - that started in 91.

I've been working on an all model year inclusive guide. Anyway, attached is one way to do a '90. It incorporates what I think is the simplest hatch interface (no need to run any wires to the back or change the grounding there) and uses a single relay DPDT. There are numerous possible points to interface with the door locks and alarm, but this should work. Try it and let me know what you think. It coalesces ideas from Alan and Borland.

jeff spahn

I got the keyless installed per the diagram above in my 1990 S4. Viper system. Works well. When you push the lock button it sends a pulse and rolls the windows up too. Very nice. Door has to be open to do the hatch so I would like to figure out how to push the button and get the hatch to open with the door closed like when you come to the car from a store. Any ideas? Also no horn chip when locking.
I'll have to call the installer and verify he did everything exactly to the specs. I mean the lock and unlock works, just the horn and hatch to sort out now.

Alan

There is lots of dicsussion on methods to do the hatch - with at least 2 primary ways and a few alternatives - start reading - you will find it.

It is helpful to understand how the hatch release circuit works first. If it doesn't work manually from the pull - of cousre it won't work remotely either.

Alan

jeff spahn

I have been reading up on it and I get it. Hatch pulls work fine.

I gave the thread to my installer. He just hooked the hatch pop up to the pull wire. Didn't do a relay. I even gave him the printout from Bill. Said he couldn't get his head around it. He's been doing these for 10 or more years. Told him to just wire it like I have it shown, no creative wiring. Use the diodes where indicated and use the 275-218 relay and wire it like shown.

Why can't an installer tell you this up front. I even made a point of giving him the wiring diagram showing how to wire the KE. He chose to ignore it and spent 6 hours on the car yesterday. People!!!!!!

Alan

There is only one way to get it installed well - do it yourself.

The "professionals" in this game are all morons - without exception so far in my experience... They wil think nothing of doing horrible irreversible damage to your car - DONT LET THEM TOUCH YOUR CAR.

Alan

jeff spahn

Yeah you are right. I should just go pick up the car and finish it myself. $350 is what he charged too. I am just electron impaired to quote the OP. The wiring diagram does make it pretty easy though.
Do you have a setup where I wouldn't need a relay on the hatch circuit if I didn't care about the doors being closed and the hatch pulls being operable when the doors were closed? Or would this cause unintended alarm activation?

jeff spahn

Well. When I went back, he had it all done. Everything works as expected . . .except you have to unlock the car before using the hatch button or the alarm goes off. Thoughts where he missed. I'll fix that part myself.

Bill Ball

If the alarm goes off when you pop the hatch with the doors closed and the alarm armed, you would need to implement the hatch disarm shown in the lower right corner of the diagram posted previously. HOWEVER, if he did not use a relay for the hatch pop-up, I'd determine what he did. As mentioned before, most of the keyless entry hatch triggers are not rated for the current needed here.

Alan, don't you have a scheme that does not use any relays if you aren't concerned about preserving the hatch interlock?