AO

I just finished installing a Murf Stage 3 kit on a buddy's '87 S4 and upon the first prolonged startup, the end-tank on the passenger side decided to let go.

So we're mulling our options. Of course we can go with an OE radiator, but the expense is roughly $1,500!

We'll look at repairing it as well, but we also wanted to look at the C&R rad's from 928 Int'l with the welded end tanks. The price point is far better than the OE at $850. But the concern is fittment. I understand the C&R is about 1/4" thicker. I spoke to Tom and he wasn't aware of any Murf customers using this rad. I also spoke to Murf, he didn't know either.

The issue is that the airbox for the SCer is litterally right next to the rad. So if the rad sits back any further than the OE, I don't think it will work.

Does anyone know of a Murf kit running with a non-OE radiator?

Thanks for your help.

FlyingDog

IIRC somebody complained about it not fitting a year or two ago. I think the issue was the rad hoses running into belts or fans. Trimming the hose ends to correct the angles seemed like a simple fix to me when I read it. Maybe the search gods will be friendly and let you find it.

Rob Roy

Sorry - mines a Behr - but it is a tight fit with the airbox

Kevin Michael

I bought a new factory rad off of the internet to solve my cooling problems. Brand new in box Behr for 550.00 shipped, but I can't remember where I got the darn thing! Runs at 3/8 most of the time now! But and this is a big but, I am not running Murf's airbox any longer so I wouldn't have had a problem with the C&R. Buy the C&R, remove the airbox and filter, and screen the blower inlet. I used very heavy (make sure it is stiff and finely woven) fine mesh, shaped it with a piece of the same size pipe, trimmed it and clamped it on. The upside is you will gain a lot of power here as that airbox is a HUGE restriction. I have been running mine this way for 18mos. or so and no problems. But it makes a vast difference in power that you can feel. Try it!

AO

So, let me get this straight... you're running without a filter? Just the screen?

Not sure if I'd do this. Certainly not with someone else's car. I can just imagine some sand and grit getting up into the SCer and into the cumbustion chamber. You've got *****!

I can imaginge it's a big bump in the HP, but since this is not my ar, we'll stay with the original setup.

I was just looking at the bumpers that hold the rad in place. If the C&R uses the same ones, I could trim the back side of them down a bit to give the rad a bit more forward position. Thoughts?

Kevin Michael

Wouldn't work as the rubber mounts wouldn't allow the play as well as ac parts and such. The stock rad is fine, it just needs to be new. I am running a s%^$%^load of power through mine and the new rad keeps her at 1/2 or less, even with ac on and heavy traffic it might touch 5/8 or so. Lots of turbo guys do the screen and some run completely open! That's crazy. Although you do have to be careful to use nothing smaller than 1/8 suare weave mesh or it will become a very bad restriction. I may switch to 1/4 inch square weave and use a filter element such as the HKS stuff over the mesh. I do know this that airbox ain't going back on! Good luck with the rad.

Wild Bill

1/8" mesh? You are kidding, right?

Guess you've never cleaned out all the pebbles and road debris that accumulate on top of the radiator, inside the intake tubes, the air pump filter or in a stock air filter? Never mind sand and grit... And it's only the turbo guys that are crazy?

hacker-pschorr

I would like to point out nobody within the Murf928 organization endorses this idea on any car, much less a Murf928 equipped automobile.

Tim Murphy

We have the supercharger from a customer car that ran without a filter.... needless to say he junked the engine because there was so much scoring on the cylinder walls, but you should see the bead blasted impeller from sucking in debris. I'm told there was at least a half inch of road dust on the inside of the intake side covers.

Kevin, put a filter on that thing right now or go to your room and skip dinner!!

toofast928

Andrew I have the same issue. SC very close to the radiator and I want to go aftermarket but unsure of the fit.

Kevin take the 5 HP loss an put a big K/N filter on that thing. Your right about turbos being up front in the bumper cover with no filtration, 1/4 mile cars, never seen it on the street.--finger eater

ew928

Don't scored cylinders get better oiling to the rings?



Thought forced induction makes any "airbox restrictions" mostly moot.
If the airbox/filter flows enough volume, wouldn't the forced air part make up for the restrictions.


Forgot who I heard was running K&N dry without the oil so it won't munge up the MAF wire.
:slapforehead:

Bill Ball

Andrew - the problem with trying to move or lean the radiator forward is that there are a lot of things in front of it that jam against it as well. On the driver side, the plug for the headlight motor is jammed in there. If you have AC, various components prevent much forward movement. I had a helluva time with a stock radiator. Anything 1/4th inch thicker would have been impossible.

AO

I hear ya Bill. I think I can get about 1/4" without too much trouble. In doing some research, I see that Craig (aggravation) may have used the C&R with his stage 3. I'm waiting on a reply on a PM I sent him.

The one thing I learned about the Murf Stage 3 through this install vs. DR's kit (and this is not a knock) is that the Murf kit has very tight tolerances in front. We're talking milimeters of clearance.

I was lookign at the OE rad, and the core is recessed forward about 1/4" from the rear of the end tank. As long as the C&R doesn't sit any further back than the OE end tank, I think I could get it to work.

David L. Lutz

Yes, it will fit! Every think in front of the Rad. gets shifted to the front of the car by a good full 1/4", its tight but can be done.

Same think happened to me the pass. side tank started leaking, I think from the higher temps.

AO

Coolio! Thanks David.

I'm going to cut open the old rad tomorrow to inspect, but now that I know the C&R fits, we might just go that route. I know if it were my car, I would.