85 euro will not start
#1
85 euro will not start
the engine cranks
have spark
have fuel
replaced maf
replaced halls sensor it works
cleaned grounds
checked , jumped , replaced relays
replaced fuse panel
replaced and tested temp II
i let the car run out of fuel while adjusting maf load hiss stumble then never
ran again.
will not strat or catch with starting fluid.
cranks over verywell
the only thing i have not checked is injectors to see if they are running.
any other ideas
help!!!!!
have spark
have fuel
replaced maf
replaced halls sensor it works
cleaned grounds
checked , jumped , replaced relays
replaced fuse panel
replaced and tested temp II
i let the car run out of fuel while adjusting maf load hiss stumble then never
ran again.
will not strat or catch with starting fluid.
cranks over verywell
the only thing i have not checked is injectors to see if they are running.
any other ideas
help!!!!!
#5
Burning Brakes
All you need is fuel, compression, and spark (at the right time). It sounds like you verified that you have spark (not sure about the timing).
Verify that the injectors are firing, if the injectors are firing but the fuel pressure is to low you get a drippble instead of a spray so it may be the fuel filter restricted.
Given that it doesn't fire at all on starter starting fluid (always a touchy subject) I suppose it could be timing - any chance that when it stumbled running out of fuel that the timing belt jumped?
Verify that the injectors are firing, if the injectors are firing but the fuel pressure is to low you get a drippble instead of a spray so it may be the fuel filter restricted.
Given that it doesn't fire at all on starter starting fluid (always a touchy subject) I suppose it could be timing - any chance that when it stumbled running out of fuel that the timing belt jumped?
#6
Under the Lift
Lifetime Rennlist
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Lifetime Rennlist
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If it does not fire with a few squirts of starting fluid, that leads to spark being suspect. Are you SURE you have good, regular spark on all cylinders?
#7
when i pulled the plugs one on each side the drivers side spark was less bright and noticed the plugs on that side were rather filthy carbon (?). while the other bank was almost new looking . bad coil or not strong enough ?. both coils look factory stock and ground wires were and are now in good shape.
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#8
also the car always used to back fire when cold but ran great when warm . starting was never a issue.
the timing belt had been replaced 2,500 miles ago. and once warm it ran great no missing stumbling but cold it was rough even after changing the temp II.
this car has not started since november .
the timing belt had been replaced 2,500 miles ago. and once warm it ran great no missing stumbling but cold it was rough even after changing the temp II.
this car has not started since november .
#9
Nordschleife Master
while you may see fuel in the rail this does not indicate that you have proper fuel flow and pressure.
Please verify that the fuel pump is indeed running.
Your cold stumble and running indicates to me that the MAF is either needing replacement, or that the CO pot on the MAF needs to be adjusted to get the car into a proper AFR, currently I would be willing to put money on the fact that the car was running lean.
I would once you get it running have the CO pot adjusted with one of PorKens tools, or go to a shop with a CO meter and have it set there.
Please verify that the fuel pump is indeed running.
Your cold stumble and running indicates to me that the MAF is either needing replacement, or that the CO pot on the MAF needs to be adjusted to get the car into a proper AFR, currently I would be willing to put money on the fact that the car was running lean.
I would once you get it running have the CO pot adjusted with one of PorKens tools, or go to a shop with a CO meter and have it set there.
#11
Team Owner
I would pull the caps off the distributors and check the distributor timing belt.
With the engine at TDC the cams and crank and BOTH of the distributor rotors should be pointing at their respective timing marks. ( the twin dizzys both have small hash marks on their respective housings).
The other thing that will keep the engine from running is having the igniton coil wires swapped( IE try swapping the coil wires on the distributors
IIRC the rear dizzy gets the wire from the pass side coil
Follow the ignition diagram on the sides of the twin Dizzys make sure that each wire is routed correctly
From the backfiring it sounds like you have a few crossed ignition wires.
Also remove both of the computer plugs they are under the glovebox mounted on the side panel and check them for corrosion, also inspect the crank position sensor connector this is on the underside of the aircleaner on the driver side.
Also check the starting, fuel pump and ignition relays for corrosion, on the pins if you find any remove the covers and inspect the contacts inside
With the engine at TDC the cams and crank and BOTH of the distributor rotors should be pointing at their respective timing marks. ( the twin dizzys both have small hash marks on their respective housings).
The other thing that will keep the engine from running is having the igniton coil wires swapped( IE try swapping the coil wires on the distributors
IIRC the rear dizzy gets the wire from the pass side coil
Follow the ignition diagram on the sides of the twin Dizzys make sure that each wire is routed correctly
From the backfiring it sounds like you have a few crossed ignition wires.
Also remove both of the computer plugs they are under the glovebox mounted on the side panel and check them for corrosion, also inspect the crank position sensor connector this is on the underside of the aircleaner on the driver side.
Also check the starting, fuel pump and ignition relays for corrosion, on the pins if you find any remove the covers and inspect the contacts inside
Last edited by Mrmerlin; 03-31-2009 at 08:47 PM.
#12
i think we have something. the order wiring order does not make sense to me . looking from front of the hood is the cylinder order 2468 driver side and 1357 passenger ??????
#14
i just opened up the manual and yes you are correct . i really hoped i have overlooked something basic
but its not that.and yes all other connections and are clean or have nbeen replaced . i am leaning on a bad coil driver side (the spark was not has bright as the passenger side), bad fuel pump , or and i do not believe bad fuel filter.
but its not that.and yes all other connections and are clean or have nbeen replaced . i am leaning on a bad coil driver side (the spark was not has bright as the passenger side), bad fuel pump , or and i do not believe bad fuel filter.