85 euro will not start
#16
Team Owner
before you swap the coil try swapping the connectors for the igniters they are under the black cover on the front area just next to the hood latch. and in front of the headlight bar.
Did you check the timing of the twin Dizzys?? and did you try swapping the coil wires to each dizzy?
There is a wire diagram on the face of each Dizzy to guide you
Did you check the timing of the twin Dizzys?? and did you try swapping the coil wires to each dizzy?
There is a wire diagram on the face of each Dizzy to guide you
#17
i think i found the issue i had no voltage coming from the maf to the lh pin 7
investigated and pin 5 and 6 on maf were cracked and broken . i had a good reading with the volt meter
sticking the positive lead into the connector directly .
thank goodness i bought a used old loom just for that connector alone.
will work on it wednesday.
the coil wires were correct as were the plug wires . the rotor was lined up perfectly with the timing marks in the distributor .
the igniters look like new as do the connectors.that cover does a great job.
investigated and pin 5 and 6 on maf were cracked and broken . i had a good reading with the volt meter
sticking the positive lead into the connector directly .
thank goodness i bought a used old loom just for that connector alone.
will work on it wednesday.
the coil wires were correct as were the plug wires . the rotor was lined up perfectly with the timing marks in the distributor .
the igniters look like new as do the connectors.that cover does a great job.
#18
to change the coil is no big deal and i will be happy to check it out with the help of the shop manual
to see what is wrong. the wiring on this car is to say the least horrible . just plain inferior from the factory. it is a amazing car for the money . but i promised the wife to keep it to a budget but with spring here a really want to get it going so i can finally get the exhaust done ( the previous owner has a single cat leading to the dual exhaust). and some suspension work.
to see what is wrong. the wiring on this car is to say the least horrible . just plain inferior from the factory. it is a amazing car for the money . but i promised the wife to keep it to a budget but with spring here a really want to get it going so i can finally get the exhaust done ( the previous owner has a single cat leading to the dual exhaust). and some suspension work.
#19
Team Owner
usually when something stops working, it is best to ask yourself. What was the last thing I fixed/touched. This can be a helpful tool for finding faults.
Good Luck with the MAF
Good Luck with the MAF
#23
Team Owner
the timing cant be changed its done in the brain, make sure to check both of the line up marks on the distributors, the belt for the Dizzy can jump or break.
Also check that the Dizzy lines up with the cam belt/engine at TDC
The fuel pump may be able to be saved put some marvel mystery oil in the feed side, and connect it to a battery with the power reversed
Also check that the Dizzy lines up with the cam belt/engine at TDC
The fuel pump may be able to be saved put some marvel mystery oil in the feed side, and connect it to a battery with the power reversed
#24
the rotors and tdc marks all line up on the timing belt. plug wires are correct and in good shape.
i ahve changed all vacum lines with no improvement. when cold has a hard time catching idle and will back fire. after 5 minutes of warrming up it idles well but still kicks and bucks under 2,000 rpm.
i have changed or checked
maf new unit
halls effect sensor and connecter
plugs
coils
plug wires
belt in distributer.
all relays and fuses and panel
fuel pump fuel filter
temp II
i have replaced or cleaned all connections that i could fine.
the only known issues is the 2 into one cat that previous owner put on with a o2 sensor which
i have yet to have seen were it is wired into .
and the factory fuel economy gauge does not move even though i have got good vacum .
i ahve changed all vacum lines with no improvement. when cold has a hard time catching idle and will back fire. after 5 minutes of warrming up it idles well but still kicks and bucks under 2,000 rpm.
i have changed or checked
maf new unit
halls effect sensor and connecter
plugs
coils
plug wires
belt in distributer.
all relays and fuses and panel
fuel pump fuel filter
temp II
i have replaced or cleaned all connections that i could fine.
the only known issues is the 2 into one cat that previous owner put on with a o2 sensor which
i have yet to have seen were it is wired into .
and the factory fuel economy gauge does not move even though i have got good vacum .
#25
Team Owner
there isnt a Hall sensor on your car????
The hall was installed on the 87 S4 behind the 1-4 cam housing
Do you mean a crank position sensor??
The O2 sensor isnt wired for the Euro IE its just there for looks
Remove the connectors for the brains and inspect them for corrosion.
Check all of the grounds starting with the battery, there are also some grounds for the fuel injectors and the coils make sure that they are all solid
The hall was installed on the 87 S4 behind the 1-4 cam housing
Do you mean a crank position sensor??
The O2 sensor isnt wired for the Euro IE its just there for looks
Remove the connectors for the brains and inspect them for corrosion.
Check all of the grounds starting with the battery, there are also some grounds for the fuel injectors and the coils make sure that they are all solid
#26
Nordschleife Master