Fabio421

And maybe use some non service hardening loctite as well.

SharkSkin

The toplock nuts, if used properly(one-use, torque to spec) will not come loose. Loctite won't hurt anything, unless it gets on the taper. If that happens, when it comes time to disassemble you will probably discover some curse words that you didn't know that you knew.

Angel84-928

The Tie Rod Ball Joint does come with a castellated nut, but because the Lower Ball Joint Nut is designed to help push down and disconnect the Lower Ball Joint from the Spindle, it uses a Cap Nut. The Cap Nut fits into a recess in the spindle. The two Lower Ball Joints that I received from a site sponsor didn't come with the nut.

Anyway, I'm taking a break from the car for a little bit. (One step forward, two steps back)

robot808

Angel, no way. You just got this car back together. Do not stop fighting now. You are there man. You have come to far to stop. You can do it!!!!!

Gtaebr

Always pin or wire mine on everything I owned just for this reason....

So glad you were not down on it when this happened could have been so much worse....

Joe

Bill Ball

Right. I see, said the blind man, it was not the tierod balljoint that came loose but the lower control arm balljoint on the spindle.

Nevermind!

Trying to do 3 things at once and succeeding at none!

Fabio421

+928

Angel84-928

You're right. I was moments from turning onto a long, beautiful stretch of flat highway with little to no traffic that begs for pure, unadulterated Speed.

Dodged that bullet.

SharkSkin

This is mentioned on P. 40-3 of the WSM, but it's not very explicit; it just says "Renew".

This is interesting... I don't have that spur on my spindle, I had to use a tool to get the LBJ out. WSM points it out on P. 40-25, apparently it was on the knuckle for floating-caliper(S?) brakes.

I know this is an RCH OT, but the WSM calls out the toplock nuts for this location as well, again one-use(P. 48-3) and the same with shock mounting bolts. Sounds like an aftermarket supplier is just going with what they know, and what they know is castellated nuts and cotter pins. Probably cheaper. My tie rod ends have no hole, so my guess is either they were replaced with Porsche parts at one time or they are in amazing shape for 100K miles. I go so far as to treat the ones on the droplinks as one-use as well, even though this is not called out in the WSM. I think Porsche was just more careful about the hardware that can kill you if it comes loose; I tend to also worry about the stuuff that can spoil my drive if it comes loose.

+ another 928!

Angel84-928

Just found out that the Lower Ball Joint Locking Nut (999.084.059.02) (Ref. 401-05 (11A)) are NLA. I'm going with item 11. 3 on there way from Texass.

BTW, if anyone can send me pg 40-26 of the WSM, I would forever grateful.

Fabio421

It's a nut, how can it be NLA? Can you use a nylock or flex loc nut in it's place?

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...ex?sku=0145171

SharkSkin

Fabio, the nut that acts as a balljoint press is NLA. It's a kind of acorn nut. The one that Angel references -- Item 11 -- is a standard toplock nut anad should be a perfectly serviceable replacement. I wouldn't use a nylock nut in this application, it would be less resistant to loosening than the spec nut.

Angel, I'm missing that page from my PDF too -- I just looked in my hardcopy WSM set, and it's a blank page. Below is a copy for your records.

Fabio421

I guess you guys are going to force me into crawling under there to take a look at this special nut.

Thanks for the scan of the missing page. 928 owners all over the world are thanking you.

Lizard928

How did you torque this nut when you installed?

I am guessing that you were unable to. Is it possible that you simply didnt tighten it enough.

Be a good dead to tighten the other side more too.

SharkSkin

No prob... just trying to do my part.