"Machining" group buy
02-04-2009, 06:10 PM
#16
Race Car
Sometimes I wonder how these outfits can ever sell at such price points.
475hp/460lb.ft
02-04-2009, 06:14 PM
#17
Nordschleife Master
I know places claim to do this but i think they just put them in a deep freeze without the required hot cycle too.
I will try and look up the process, it really is quite interesting. I remember it being called liquid metal.
02-04-2009, 06:16 PM
#18
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The comments in other posts about those 350mm brembo motorsports rotors are saying that the rotor rings are 450 each. Not bad, - as long as they last a LLOOOOONNNGG time.
02-04-2009, 06:17 PM
#19
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
next time i buy rotors, i am taking them to be cryo treated. I dont want to try and explain it but when you heat them and cool then 2-3 cycles it changes the molecular arrangement of the base metal and becomes much more durable.
I know places claim to do this but i think they just put them in a deep freeze without the required hot cycle too.
I will try and look up the process, it really is quite interesting. I remember it being called liquid metal.
I know places claim to do this but i think they just put them in a deep freeze without the required hot cycle too.
I will try and look up the process, it really is quite interesting. I remember it being called liquid metal.
02-04-2009, 06:19 PM
#20
Three Wheelin'
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Ryan:
As an FYI, you should research brake rotors in reference to the material as well as mounting style. In short, iron is not iron, is not iron.
If you read some of the DE / Racing threads about 993TT rotors, most of these folks bitch about rotor life. Having owned a 993TT, I have first hand knowledge of the issue(s).
Also, when discussing a multi piece rotor assembly, there are fixed and floating style rotors. You need to watch the design of the hat / rotor so that the part is intended for the correct assembly, fixed vs. floating. The piece part stresses are not the same.
As one more point, I am running a multi piece front rotor, 332X32. I opted for this choice as like other have discussed, I have a slightly larger brake torque arm than 993TT as well as having better rotor material than OEM iron.
I'll admit to not paying $200 a piece for my rotors, however I also have experience that these rotors will last enough better than OEM to more than cover the additonal expense. The key to a lot of this rotor stuff is matching pads to the total brake system design.
Enjoy.
As an FYI, you should research brake rotors in reference to the material as well as mounting style. In short, iron is not iron, is not iron.
If you read some of the DE / Racing threads about 993TT rotors, most of these folks bitch about rotor life. Having owned a 993TT, I have first hand knowledge of the issue(s).
Also, when discussing a multi piece rotor assembly, there are fixed and floating style rotors. You need to watch the design of the hat / rotor so that the part is intended for the correct assembly, fixed vs. floating. The piece part stresses are not the same.
As one more point, I am running a multi piece front rotor, 332X32. I opted for this choice as like other have discussed, I have a slightly larger brake torque arm than 993TT as well as having better rotor material than OEM iron.
I'll admit to not paying $200 a piece for my rotors, however I also have experience that these rotors will last enough better than OEM to more than cover the additonal expense. The key to a lot of this rotor stuff is matching pads to the total brake system design.
Enjoy.
02-04-2009, 06:20 PM
#21
Nordschleife Master
what i am interested in is changing the molecular structure from a crystaline structure to ....... i dont know what. Im actually reading about it now
apparently under the right conditions when you freeze and heat up metal components it can change its molecular properties and eliminate the crystaline structrue they are usually made up of.
Interesting....... i still dont get it, but im learning!
apparently under the right conditions when you freeze and heat up metal components it can change its molecular properties and eliminate the crystaline structrue they are usually made up of.
Interesting....... i still dont get it, but im learning!
02-04-2009, 06:23 PM
#22
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I found a page with brembo rotor rings on thier own with drawings:
332mm:
http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?tp...action=product
Drawing for the 350mm:
332mm:
http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?tp...action=product
Drawing for the 350mm:
02-04-2009, 06:23 PM
#23
Nordschleife Master
Ryan:
As an FYI, you should research brake rotors in reference to the material as well as mounting style. In short, iron is not iron, is not iron.
If you read some of the DE / Racing threads about 993TT rotors, most of these folks bitch about rotor life. Having owned a 993TT, I have first hand knowledge of the issue(s).
Also, when discussing a multi piece rotor assembly, there are fixed and floating style rotors. You need to watch the design of the hat / rotor so that the part is intended for the correct assembly, fixed vs. floating. The piece part stresses are not the same.
As one more point, I am running a multi piece front rotor, 332X32. I opted for this choice as like other have discussed, I have a slightly larger brake torque arm than 993TT as well as having better rotor material than OEM iron.
I'll admit to not paying $200 a piece for my rotors, however I also have experience that these rotors will last enough better than OEM to more than cover the additonal expense. The key to a lot of this rotor stuff is matching pads to the total brake system design.
Enjoy.
As an FYI, you should research brake rotors in reference to the material as well as mounting style. In short, iron is not iron, is not iron.
If you read some of the DE / Racing threads about 993TT rotors, most of these folks bitch about rotor life. Having owned a 993TT, I have first hand knowledge of the issue(s).
Also, when discussing a multi piece rotor assembly, there are fixed and floating style rotors. You need to watch the design of the hat / rotor so that the part is intended for the correct assembly, fixed vs. floating. The piece part stresses are not the same.
As one more point, I am running a multi piece front rotor, 332X32. I opted for this choice as like other have discussed, I have a slightly larger brake torque arm than 993TT as well as having better rotor material than OEM iron.
I'll admit to not paying $200 a piece for my rotors, however I also have experience that these rotors will last enough better than OEM to more than cover the additonal expense. The key to a lot of this rotor stuff is matching pads to the total brake system design.
Enjoy.
When the times comes that i tackle brake rotors you can be assured i will contact you for your thoughts and sources of these 332mm rotors. SOUNDS LIKE A NICE SOLUTION!
02-04-2009, 06:24 PM
#24
Nordschleife Master
I found a page with brembo rotor rings on thier own with drawings:
332mm:
http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?tp...action=product
Drawing for the 350mm:
332mm:
http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?tp...action=product
Drawing for the 350mm:
Jim, are these 332's anything like yours? I love the interior cooling vane design.
02-04-2009, 06:26 PM
#25
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Ryan:
As an FYI, you should research brake rotors in reference to the material as well as mounting style. In short, iron is not iron, is not iron.
If you read some of the DE / Racing threads about 993TT rotors, most of these folks bitch about rotor life. Having owned a 993TT, I have first hand knowledge of the issue(s).
Also, when discussing a multi piece rotor assembly, there are fixed and floating style rotors. You need to watch the design of the hat / rotor so that the part is intended for the correct assembly, fixed vs. floating. The piece part stresses are not the same.
As one more point, I am running a multi piece front rotor, 332X32. I opted for this choice as like other have discussed, I have a slightly larger brake torque arm than 993TT as well as having better rotor material than OEM iron.
I'll admit to not paying $200 a piece for my rotors, however I also have experience that these rotors will last enough better than OEM to more than cover the additonal expense. The key to a lot of this rotor stuff is matching pads to the total brake system design.
Enjoy.
As an FYI, you should research brake rotors in reference to the material as well as mounting style. In short, iron is not iron, is not iron.
If you read some of the DE / Racing threads about 993TT rotors, most of these folks bitch about rotor life. Having owned a 993TT, I have first hand knowledge of the issue(s).
Also, when discussing a multi piece rotor assembly, there are fixed and floating style rotors. You need to watch the design of the hat / rotor so that the part is intended for the correct assembly, fixed vs. floating. The piece part stresses are not the same.
As one more point, I am running a multi piece front rotor, 332X32. I opted for this choice as like other have discussed, I have a slightly larger brake torque arm than 993TT as well as having better rotor material than OEM iron.
I'll admit to not paying $200 a piece for my rotors, however I also have experience that these rotors will last enough better than OEM to more than cover the additonal expense. The key to a lot of this rotor stuff is matching pads to the total brake system design.
Enjoy.
02-04-2009, 06:31 PM
#26
Nordschleife Master
I assume also that the 332mm would fit the GTS caliper without modifications. Thats just 5mm radius and i believe the GTS caliper would allow that.
Sounds like a great setup
Sounds like a great setup
02-04-2009, 06:34 PM
#27
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Great site:
http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?tp...ction=category
I think I could even figure out how to make a two piece for the rear. Not super big - no reason - but long lasting and maybe lighter.
http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?tp...ction=category
I think I could even figure out how to make a two piece for the rear. Not super big - no reason - but long lasting and maybe lighter.
02-04-2009, 06:39 PM
#28
Nordschleife Master
does this place have the best prices for these rotors?
I am curious to see specifics on the iron used but it doesn't list much, just a ton of measurements.
Does the Lindsey racing hat fit the mounting points of this rotor? Do compound rotors all have a somewhat regulated attachment methods or a general pattern that they follow to attach the rotor to the hat?
I am curious to see specifics on the iron used but it doesn't list much, just a ton of measurements.
Does the Lindsey racing hat fit the mounting points of this rotor? Do compound rotors all have a somewhat regulated attachment methods or a general pattern that they follow to attach the rotor to the hat?
02-04-2009, 06:50 PM
#29
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
No, the mounting points are probably different, and as Jim suggests, the mounting SYSTEM is different (notice the other article on the vivid site talks about anti-rattle floating rotor hardware - thats what I want).
Well, I learned something new, by doing more searching because of this thread. But those 450 dollar rotors would need to last more than twice as long as the 993TT rotors to be worth it.
Well, I learned something new, by doing more searching because of this thread. But those 450 dollar rotors would need to last more than twice as long as the 993TT rotors to be worth it.
02-04-2009, 06:52 PM
#30
Nordschleife Master
No, the mounting points are probably different, and as Jim suggests, the mounting SYSTEM is different (notice the other article on the vivid site talks about anti-rattle floating rotor hardware - thats what I want).
Well, I learned something new, by doing more searching because of this thread. But those 450 dollar rotors would need to last more than twice as long as the 993TT rotors to be worth it.
Well, I learned something new, by doing more searching because of this thread. But those 450 dollar rotors would need to last more than twice as long as the 993TT rotors to be worth it.
Turned out to be a good thread for me, i like it!
So if you have hats made to fit these rotors and S4 spindles then i am game! Lets get the price under $200 to boot!
THEN we can move onto the rear to get matching rotors, and lets throw some larger calipers back there too just for the hell of it.
FWIW, i just recently made a contact that gets Brembo parts at suppliers cost. I would hope this could get rotor cost down from $450 to..... i dont know $350 maybe? I will try and check it out if we can get confirmation on exactly which brake rotor part numbers to use.