Engine Rebuild
#31
Mark at Devek, some years back, claimed he fixed the oil consumption of a GTS engine by drilling out the holes in the oil ring glands. The problem with this approach is that it requires new rods for most of the GTS's with the 1R rods. That includes mine.
My plan is to postpone that work until the 2/6 rod bearings need work or some other major problem forces me in that direction. Currently I've chosen to add a quart of oil every 900-1200 miles over the expense of a re-build.
When I do mine, I'll also do the head re-build, 968 intake valves and notch the pistons for the valves as well as re-drilling the crank.
My plan is to postpone that work until the 2/6 rod bearings need work or some other major problem forces me in that direction. Currently I've chosen to add a quart of oil every 900-1200 miles over the expense of a re-build.
When I do mine, I'll also do the head re-build, 968 intake valves and notch the pistons for the valves as well as re-drilling the crank.
Im now looking at GTS's and looking at some 93's
I would honestly just go through the entire engine anyway and already have on my budget the 2R rods
BUT
I am also considering drilling the crank ($750) but then i think, why not just sell the GTS bottom end to someone else (as i would be changing rods, putting alomst $1000 into the crank, and replacing rods) why not just buy a 95mm crank (already drilled, so net cost is about $1700) i would be replacing rods, so why not just get aftermarket rods to match the new crank ( Porsche 2R rods $1400, aftermarket forged rods $1400 net cost $0) and then either stick with the 100mm bore (would need to find a suitable 928 piston) or boring (( plus $1000) and putting in some 104 or 105 mm pistons. (yet more money)
So many options
I actually plan to think through some of these ideas a little more in depth and post a thread about it as to other larger displacement ideas then the typical, and would like to try and use at least one of the standard parts from a 5.0L. Meaning i either:
keep the crank (doubtful due to cost of drilling)
or the rods (possible if i could use 5.0L GT rods with some combo of crank and piston) ,
keep the pistons (GTS pistons need work, and S4 GT pistons may have the pin location in the wrong spot)
then there is the block, which i would prefer to keep at 100mm, but then if i buy pistons, i may as well make em bigger ones and just bore and nikasil the block.
The idea of the above is to try and keep one of those 4 components stock to reduce cost somewhat and gain displacement. I guess the easiest would be to use a 5.0L block and bore it thereby changing the block and pistons) but keeping the rods and crank. Just thinking aloud here
So many questions! ISNT THIS FUN!