Taking on Intake
#16
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Well, the intake is off. I love that the job is estimated to take from 5 to 20 hours total. It took me more than 5 hours just to get the intake off, without doing all of the refreshing. I greatly appreciate the writeups from Dwayne and the 928 owners club. Both were indispensable. Here is where things stand so far.
The first part was easy with removal of the airbox, MAF, fuel rail covers and fuel lines.
The fuel rails were a little more difficult as they were Completely covered in a sticky, gooey, tar like insulation. I know they originally had insulation, but I don't think this stuff was OEM. Also, the paint of the intake was barely hanging on. If wasn't missing major flakes before, but it is coming off pretty easy now.
I went the route of removing the fuel rails from the injectors instead of trying to remove as a single unit. I am glad I did. It took some head scratching and serious grunting to get even the individual injectors out. The O rings were hard as rock and had bonded to the intake paint and pulled off large flakes of paint when they finally came loose. Normal? Most of the injectors looked pretty good, like Dwaynes they were gunk covered at the tip, but one pintle cap looked pretty beat up. Looks like the injectors are going to be sent out for rehab.
A lot of the rubber bits were pretty beat up and hardened, most of Rogers excel spreadsheet is going to get checked when I place my order. When the knock sensors were replaced 5 years ago only the gasket connecting the intake runners to the heads were replaced. The knock sensors looked very fresh, I thing I can get away with leaving them in place.
Otherwise things went slow but smoothly. All bolts and washers and clips are accounted for and bagged and labled.
Here are a few pictures of my progress so far.
The first part was easy with removal of the airbox, MAF, fuel rail covers and fuel lines.
The fuel rails were a little more difficult as they were Completely covered in a sticky, gooey, tar like insulation. I know they originally had insulation, but I don't think this stuff was OEM. Also, the paint of the intake was barely hanging on. If wasn't missing major flakes before, but it is coming off pretty easy now.
I went the route of removing the fuel rails from the injectors instead of trying to remove as a single unit. I am glad I did. It took some head scratching and serious grunting to get even the individual injectors out. The O rings were hard as rock and had bonded to the intake paint and pulled off large flakes of paint when they finally came loose. Normal? Most of the injectors looked pretty good, like Dwaynes they were gunk covered at the tip, but one pintle cap looked pretty beat up. Looks like the injectors are going to be sent out for rehab.
A lot of the rubber bits were pretty beat up and hardened, most of Rogers excel spreadsheet is going to get checked when I place my order. When the knock sensors were replaced 5 years ago only the gasket connecting the intake runners to the heads were replaced. The knock sensors looked very fresh, I thing I can get away with leaving them in place.
Otherwise things went slow but smoothly. All bolts and washers and clips are accounted for and bagged and labled.
Here are a few pictures of my progress so far.
Last edited by 928autobahndreamer; 01-25-2009 at 10:16 PM.
#17
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Great work! Took me about the same amount of time to get the intake off the first time - I enjoy working on the car much better when I take my time and don't feel rushed. Of course, the 3 additional times I had to remove the intake to chase leaks down - it went a lot faster! Looks like you're off to a great start. THANKS for the pics - deja vue for me!
#18
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In the process of doing one in Richard K's car right now. I know how you feel. He's getting new everything, including clamps, bolts.........etc.
Getting the injectors out is best done by removing the clips from rail 1st, then taking the rail off. I've found that using a plug wire removal tool is best. see pic.
Pulling them from the intake is easy with this.
Getting the injectors out is best done by removing the clips from rail 1st, then taking the rail off. I've found that using a plug wire removal tool is best. see pic.
Pulling them from the intake is easy with this.
#19
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I went the route of removing the fuel rails from the injectors instead of trying to remove as a single unit. I am glad I did. It took some head scratching and serious grunting to get even the individual injectors out. The O rings were hard as rock and had bonded to the intake paint and pulled off large flakes of paint when they finally came loose. Normal?
#21
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Don't know why someone would take the hood off, it's not in the way.
#22
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I didn't have any problems with access with the hood on, but I can see where it would give just a bit more room to comfortably get to the back of the engine.
Interesting about the injectors. The reciept from the knock sensor and intake gasket replacement (looked again, it was actually in 2002) also included an injector seal kit. But, the o-rings are magnitudes harder than the other newer rubber bits. And the way the o-rings had bonded to the paint makes me think they had to be original.
Interesting about the injectors. The reciept from the knock sensor and intake gasket replacement (looked again, it was actually in 2002) also included an injector seal kit. But, the o-rings are magnitudes harder than the other newer rubber bits. And the way the o-rings had bonded to the paint makes me think they had to be original.
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Bill's right - height does have some disadvantages.....Besides, I needed the experience removing an '87 hood (being a newbie) ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Seriously, I had several repairs all going on at the same time with the intake job, including replacing the hood liner since mine was disintegrating. As a side effect, it made things a little easier for me on the intake job.
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Seriously, I had several repairs all going on at the same time with the intake job, including replacing the hood liner since mine was disintegrating. As a side effect, it made things a little easier for me on the intake job.
#26
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Mike, I will be continuing to work next weekend. You are welcome to come over and drink some beer on Saturday. I just need to get my act in gear this week and get some parts ordered and finish my intake prep work for painting.
#27
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I left mine on when I did intake. During the job it seemed to me that one advantage of having hood off would be in being a little more comfortable disconnecting fuel rails from rear FPR (I was spreadeagled along top of engine!).
Also you get a lot more light where you're working. I have a well lit garage but had to use a portable strip light constantly to illuminate stuff.
Also you get a lot more light where you're working. I have a well lit garage but had to use a portable strip light constantly to illuminate stuff.
#28
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Did some more work tonight. Jeez I've got to work tomorrow and its 1:30AM. I disassembled the flappy and the flappy rod cut my finger to shreds. Man watch out those edges are razor sharp.
Another thing I noticed is how much oil is in the intake manifold. There was oil that actually pooled in some of the low areas after taking it off. While stripping the paint you could see oil under the paint. I know that 928s breath a lot of oil, but this seems excessive.
Also, I noticed that I have a 5 way vaccum splitter on my car (auto) when I should have a 7 way splitter. I took some pictures of the way my vac lines are set up. Will this cause any problems, or do I need to change back to a 7 way? I have the 5 way splitter where the 7 way should be and a 4 way splitter by the brake booster attached to a 3 way Y. I hope you can see in the pictures.
I also had a heart attack moment while removing the water bridge. While lifting it out of the way I dropped a bolt into the opening and it dissappeared into the coolant. Fortuately it didn't go far and I was able to fish it out with a magnet. I didn't know what I was going to do if I couldn't find it.
I will also include a picture of my little helper.
Another thing I noticed is how much oil is in the intake manifold. There was oil that actually pooled in some of the low areas after taking it off. While stripping the paint you could see oil under the paint. I know that 928s breath a lot of oil, but this seems excessive.
Also, I noticed that I have a 5 way vaccum splitter on my car (auto) when I should have a 7 way splitter. I took some pictures of the way my vac lines are set up. Will this cause any problems, or do I need to change back to a 7 way? I have the 5 way splitter where the 7 way should be and a 4 way splitter by the brake booster attached to a 3 way Y. I hope you can see in the pictures.
I also had a heart attack moment while removing the water bridge. While lifting it out of the way I dropped a bolt into the opening and it dissappeared into the coolant. Fortuately it didn't go far and I was able to fish it out with a magnet. I didn't know what I was going to do if I couldn't find it.
I will also include a picture of my little helper.
#29
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87+ auto have a 5-way. It's earlier cars that have the 7-way. So, that's OK. 4-way at the brake booster is correct as well, but a Y off of that is not what I have seen.
The 4-way arms go to:
1. Brake booster
2. Vacuum pod in wheel well
3. Flappy
4. into cabin for climate controls
In your picture there appears to be an extra line, the white one at the top of the photo. The black one next to it should go into the firewall for the climate control. Where does the white one go?
The two lines off the extra Y appear to be the flappy and vacuum pod.
The 4-way arms go to:
1. Brake booster
2. Vacuum pod in wheel well
3. Flappy
4. into cabin for climate controls
In your picture there appears to be an extra line, the white one at the top of the photo. The black one next to it should go into the firewall for the climate control. Where does the white one go?
The two lines off the extra Y appear to be the flappy and vacuum pod.
#30
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Based on time produced during 1987 the info I've seen suggests a 5 way Vac connection could be the right set-up.
You really should augment references by reading "Service Information Tech.PDF" which can be found on the CD's. Its labeled under the file 2.15 CD1 on my directory after installing the set. This set of documents is awesome because it looks like its the service technician instructions for how to service everything that changed in the new model year. It gives extensive descriptions of parts of your intake, plus a very clear vac diagram that handles each configuration of set-up.
Also, FYI, on my 86 the 7 way connector was buried at the very base of the valley, under back fuel lines and harness. I relocated it to the firewall drivers side for better access and replaced hard PITA vac lines with hard thick rubber vac lines.
Edit, looks like Bill covered it above succinctly.
You really should augment references by reading "Service Information Tech.PDF" which can be found on the CD's. Its labeled under the file 2.15 CD1 on my directory after installing the set. This set of documents is awesome because it looks like its the service technician instructions for how to service everything that changed in the new model year. It gives extensive descriptions of parts of your intake, plus a very clear vac diagram that handles each configuration of set-up.
Also, FYI, on my 86 the 7 way connector was buried at the very base of the valley, under back fuel lines and harness. I relocated it to the firewall drivers side for better access and replaced hard PITA vac lines with hard thick rubber vac lines.
Edit, looks like Bill covered it above succinctly.