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Taking on Intake

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Old 04-02-2009, 05:27 AM
  #76  
Bill Ball
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That hose can be a b%$#h to get in the right location. It tends to hang on the lip of the manifold shelf on the head as you lower the intake into position. It needs to be pushed down below the shelf. If it gets out of position it can also get squeezed against the throttle arm and cause it to hang.

Don't force that bolt any further. To fix the cross-thread, you need to get a tap and run it down the hole, making sure you start it perfectly perpendicular to the surface. You need an 8mm x 1.25 tap.
Old 04-02-2009, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill Ball
...
Don't force that bolt any further. To fix the cross-thread, you need to get a tap and run it down the hole, making sure you start it perfectly perpendicular to the surface. You need an 8mm x 1.25 tap.
+1 I had to chase the threads in that hole too. Take your time getting it straight like Bill said with the right size tap and it will all come clean. I took it a turn at a time at first and backing it out to make sure the debris was off the tap before going a little deeper each time.
Old 04-02-2009, 11:28 AM
  #78  
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Thanks Bill and Craig. I appreciate the comments from people who have "Been there and done that". I think I have the breather hoses all straightened out.

Now I just need to get that damn water bridge bolt fixed. I hope I didn't screw up the threads too bad. I will pick up a tap set after work and run it through.

It seems that the metal there is pretty soft. I didn't feel like I was applying that much pressure and it still buggered up the threads
The bolt looks fine.
Old 04-02-2009, 01:29 PM
  #79  
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Right, you've got a steel bolt going into aluminum. Easy to mooch badly. If things are right, these bolts should be easy to start and thread by hand. Much more force than that should tell you you've got a problem.
Old 04-07-2009, 12:33 PM
  #80  
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further update.

Running the tap was a piece of cake. Don't know why I was worried about it.

Unfortunately, I got it all buttoned back up again and I still have this high pitched whistle coming from under the intake. The best I can describe it is the sound a balloon makes when you pull the neck flat to the sides while letting air out. Yes, it is that obnoxious. I started poking around under the intake to see if I could find the source and the whistle changes pitch when I manipulate the breather hose that connects from the oil filler tube to the throttle body. (Yes, the same one I had problems with before.) It looks like the hose has gotten pinched between the valley and the throttle body. I guess I am going to have to completely disassemble again (3rd times a charm).

If that doesn't fix it, I will just drive it and tell people it is supercharger whine.

Idle is pretty good although now it feels like there is an occasional miss. It never stumbles, but occasionally it is just not as smooth as I would like. I'm a little worried about how much manipulating I have done on the wiring on the injectiors and the ignition wires. The ignition wires and all of the other ignition components are slotted for replacement as soon as funds are available. The injector harness is a little more worrysome. It doesn't seem too crispy, I just hate having to disturb those wires soo much.

Well, at least it is cold today, couldn't drive it anyway.
Old 04-15-2009, 01:22 AM
  #81  
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The job is done, but not without a bit of head scratching and mystery.

After my last disassembly, I checked all of the hose connections and got the breather hose from the oil filler to the MAF boot positioned properly. I was feeling very good about how things went back together, and once the fuel lines, MAF and throttle cables were reattached, I fired her up and she idled smoothly, but the high pitched tea kettle/balloon whistle was still there.

At this point I had had the intake off 3 seperate times looking for this whistle and just wanted to drive the car for just a little bit. So, this weekend I took her out and had some great fun. The whistling bothered me, but it was good to the driving the car after 3 months of turning wrenches. After a few cycles of heating up and cooling off, an interesting thing happened today, the whistling sound disappeared. I am not completely sure why, but I do have a theory.

When installing the gaskets from the throttle body to the intake manifold, I noticed that the new gaskets I got from Rodger had a glue bead running most of the way (but not all the way) around the gasket. I was a little worried about how well this would seal and if it would be a potential source of an air leak. I made a few posts here, but nobody really had anything to add.

I am wondering if getting the engine fully hot allowed the glue bead to "melt" and complete the seal. It is the only thing I can come up with as now the engine runs and sounds great.

I have included a few pictures of the final product, as well as a picture of the gasket in question. Thanks for everyone who helped me out here. It feels very good to be done with this project. However, I have gotten faster than I could have imagined on my 3rd time. The last disassembly and reassembly took place over about 4 hours.

I have several smaller projects coming up next including all ignition components: caps, rotors, and wires. HVAC leak hunt. CV boots. And next winters project, motor mounts and oil pan gasket.
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Old 04-15-2009, 01:38 AM
  #82  
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that looks great.
Good Job.
Old 04-15-2009, 08:07 AM
  #83  
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Wow. Very nice result. Congradulation

I'm in the middle of that job right now and I want to finish mine exactly like yours.
I hope mine will look as good when finish... And everything will go well too.
Old 05-04-2010, 10:41 AM
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Great job on your intake!

I’m in the midst of doing mine right now and am I’m particularly interested on how your polished items are holding up after a year or so.

I can’t decide between buffing and spraying with clear or polish and seal with say Rejex of something.

Last edited by auzivision; 05-06-2010 at 08:54 AM.
Old 02-12-2015, 06:04 PM
  #85  
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Bump to show the whistle issue I had with the intake. It resolved and never came back after the initial heating up of the engine to full operating temp.



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