IndyMatt

Well I am about half way through the TB/WP job and decided to go ahead and remove the radiator today.


I went ahead and replaced the rotors, pads, lines, and fluid for the brakes:




I still got the fuel lines, vacuum lines, knock sensors, hall sensor, X Pipe and high flow cats, and suspension to go before I take the rear end out and send off the trans to be rebuilt. Heres some random pics of parts and the beast.







Also, I am thoroughly conviced that every bolt or other fastner on this car is rusted/welded on. My new favorite tool is the sawzall!

SeanR

I was going to ask what you used the sawzall on......but I see it on both sides of the car. I don't think I want to know.

But I will say you are about 3 gallons of Simple Green from a pristine looking engine.

Dwayne

Hello IndyMatt,
I just finished the same job on Virginia ('87) and removed the radiator as well - makes it much more roomy to work. You'll be glad when it's all done and running smooth as silk - I know I am! Good luck with the project and keep the pics coming!

johnf95111

Glad to hear the radiator is out. I can just invision a tool slip and an oh s#@t!

I've done the job once, and more room more better.

The picture in my avitar was taken during that job.

Don't get overwhelmed, just step by step. It comes apart and goes back together.

Have a cool beverage of choice when it's all over.

Cheers,

SeanR

I still want to know what the sawzall was for

SharkSkin

Sean, I thought you always reached for the power tools first? I figured you would know what a great beer opener a sawzall makes. :rofl:

Mrmerlin

now is a good time to replace the power steering resivour and both of the lines that go to it , you can cut off the factory crimped line on the short hose and secure the new hose with a screw clamp . Also consider getting a set of universal AC sealing O rings from NAPA or Azone so you can refit the line you removed and also refit a new receiver drier prior to pulling a vacuum on the system.
I would guess that the AC line was disconnected to remove the Radiator fans, it isnt usually necessary to do this.
Also take a magnet to the oil pump pulley if it sticks then you have a steel gear, if its aluminum then you should replace it and also remove the 1mm spacer behind it if you use the new steel gear , and also replace the oil pump radial seal and the O ring plus the 3 smaller bolt O rings.
Goodluck on your project

SolReaver

to help with the bolts sticking and snapping: before working on a section bathe it in penetrating fluid. invest in a little propane torch for heating the stuck bolts and quench em with penetrating fluid. wake the bolts. Think about snap on sockets with "flank drive" they work well for me.

Penetrating fluid is also good for loosening up the engine grime. I use tons of the stuff. wet down a what you are going to work on tomorrow tonight and let it sit. Try some "weasle ****" as well if you aren't using it already.


Keep up the good work!

SeanR

I love the sawzall, but it is usually reserved for front clips, roofs and stubborn quarter panels. Not for a pissed off exhaust bolt.

worf928

Couple of things:

1) Looks like you need new cam sprockets.

2) Looks like the motor is at 45 degrees BTDC on #6. Not #1. (Rotors should be pointing to the left side of the car.) This is ok for replacing the belt. But, once your new belt is on you want to turn the motor over once more to 45 BTDC on #1. If you tension the belt as the motor is currently, your tension will be far too low.

IndyMatt

I also soak the bolts with penetrating oil, PB Blaster to be specific, and also heat them up. The exhaust bolts were a no go, they were too far gone, rusted to the point of no threads So out came the good old sawzall.

The first thing it was used for was because of a caliper bolt that was almost welded to the damn spindle. It stripped out and then I tried to drill it, very unsuccessfully. I used oil, more oil, heat and more heat, easy outs, nothing worked. So 928 International had used calipers half price! So out came the sawzall for the bolt and damn near half the caliper. There was no other way, I'm telling you, NO OTHER WAY!

IndyMatt

I am doing all of the power steering lines, reservoi, and pump with this job. As it was shot. I will get some universal AC sealing O rings and replace it. I did undo the line to get the fans out as it was blocking their removal. As far as I know the AC is shot, will be a job for another day.

I will take a look at the oil pump pulley and do the magnet test. I will ask Roger to add the Oil Pump stuff to my order.

Thanks for the suggestions!

IndyMatt

Thanks I was going to pull the spark plug in the number one cylinder to double check, so thanks for the tip about the rotors!

IndyMatt

Will the hall sensor or knock sensors be easier to do with all of the stuff removed for the TB/WP job?

Jadz928

Not really.

In your pics, it look like the big power wire, the one that crosses the front of the engine, does not pass thru the timing belt. Mine does and it's looped under the right cam sprocket tower, then up and over to the power bus on the right side. That's where you will find the hall sensor, just behind the backside of the cam sprocket.

Also the wire bundle runs through a p-strap which is mounted to the engine hanging bracket. A real PITA to put back together.