worf928

Dave A: What BB wrote.

IndyMatt: sounds like you are sure of your first set of marks, so, following what I wrote above should work.... if you are sure that you didn't turn the crank another full rotation while messing with the flex plate check. When you get your belt on, I'd double check by rotating the crank 45 degrees to TDC and checking for TDC through the #1 spark plug hole.

worf928

Your cams - if they are in the positions shown on your first picture - have JUMPED since you removed the belt from them. It doesn't matter what your first picture shows, check your marks. Do not simply rotate the sprockets 180 degrees from their current position. Rotate so your original marks line up, then mark 180, then rotate 180.

IndyMatt

I will definitely double and triple check everything!

IndyMatt

Ok I finally got back to working on TB/WP repair, I have replaced the cam sprocket transferring all marks and will be rotating them 180 degrees. I got everything off belt, WP, tensioner, air pump(being deleted), and had a problem again. It seems as if the casting for the far left tensioner bolt was cracked, when I went to loosen the bolt it snapped off of the block! I am not sure how to fix it, I have both pieces and the break seems somewhat repairable.

What would be the best way to repair this?

Landseer

I think I know what you are speaking about, but could you post-up a couple of snapshots? Thanks.

Bill Ball

"Snapped off the block" sounds bad. Yes, pictures please.

IndyMatt

Here are a couple pics, I think the best way is to attach the broken piece somehow. There isn't material behind it, so I can use a longer bolt. I have the broken piece, I just don't know how to reattach.

Here are a couple photos:





So what's the verdict? I will be using the porkentensioner if that makes any difference.

IndyMatt

Okay I went ahead and used some JB Weld on it and will see how that goes. I degreased both parts very well and then smoothed some weld on there. I cleaned the excess and then ran the bolt through to make sure to get any that was in the threads. It looks to be holding well for now.

Landseer

Is it possible to put a rather large washer or backing plate & nut behind that area?

IndyMatt

Landseer I am sure that I could do that, I just don't know how I would counter hold the nut on the back of the casting? The JB Weld is holding up really well, I let it sit overnight to cure and I can hold onto the piece that broke off and can wiggle the car! I think this should be plenty strong enough to hold the Porkent tensioner.

On a sidenote, I got a lot done this weekend! I got most of the gunk removed from the engine bay and did you know that there is actually other colors besides black inside there? I mean I see silver from the aluminum and a goldish color for the engine bay paint/primer! I changed out the oil filler neck gasket and will be putting the waterbridege back in when I get a rear T-stat gasket from Roger. After I get her back running I will take it somewhere and have them steam clean the engine bay as I can't get it ALL clean. There was a LOT of oil from where the filler neck was leaking so it will be good to have it replaced.

I also installed the waterpump, next is installing the porkentensioner, and redoing the oil pump seals. After that it will be on to reintalling the timing belt and using the 32Vr to check the timing. I will post some pics of the progress tonight.

worf928

If the car's got more than 90 - 100k-miles, then I'd suggest that you pull the filler neck (again) and check the mating surface for warping. The plastic filler necks seem to warp at the front-left (driver's side) corner as they age. If your neck is warped by more than about 1-2mm it will leak even with a new gasket and Permagoop on it.

IndyMatt

Dave, thanks again for the heads up I will double check it and may just buy another.

Also, is it a good idea to do the intake and cam tower maintenance at the same time? I wasn't going to do this stuf until later in the fall but I don't want to pull the TB off again to do this maintenance as well. I have the knock sensors and vacuum lines already may as well get the whole engine maintenance done. I will be replacing the motor mounts and oil pan gasket later this summer. Also if there are any other write-ups on the cam tower maintenance let me know.

worf928

You don't have to pull the tb to do the cam covers and intake.

This is Dwyane's monster thread on doing it.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/477170-87-intake-removal-repairs-installation-procedure-w-pics.html

If you want something you can printout then here's mine:
http://928oc.org/journal/intake1b.pdf

but, it's intake only.

IndyMatt

Dave,

That must be for the early cars? Anyway I still might consider doing everything right now to the engine while it is torn apart. That way everything except the motor mounts and the oil pan gasket will be gtg. Thanks for the write-ups!

worf928

Early? Earlier than '95, yeah.