fraggle

Spent about 5 hours out there today.

I now own a hoist and leveler. The set can be rented in Spaten Units, or some equivalent of exchange. I know you can use it to pull a 928 motor, because I just did!

Motor is out.

This was by far not the toughest thing I've done mechanic wise. I think the rear swaybar install was almost worse. This was a lot of work, but it was smooth. Pretty much handled the whole thing myself. I had a friend there in case things went wrong, but they didn't.

Casualties:
1) Accelerator cable where it goes into the firewall. I was going to replace this anyway, so no big deal. In fact, I've been saving the replacement for 3 years because access looked like a PITA. Now it looks easy.
2) Vacuum 1-way valve by the brake booster disintegrated. Again, was planning on replacing it anyway.
3) Washer filler neck. It was definately on its way out. I'll have to do some research here, but if I remember right that's kind of a pain but without the engine in there a lot of things are getting simpler.

I think I've got ~15-17 hours invested so far, over three real days (broken up by my "real" job).

Going back in is going to be harder, I think, because I've got to line everything up right instead of just knocking things apart, and I'll have a set of headers to deal with.

fraggle

Proof a 928 motor can be pulled basically by one person.



Goals this weekend: strip off the intake, maybe pull the heads. We'll see how to all goes.

Mrmerlin

to pull the heads you better have a helper to hold the engine while you on the big breaker bar remove the head bolts and the engine stand should be stout.

Now is a good time to drain the block.
Take lots of pictures, use lots of baggies and label everything, especially the crank position sensor connector leads and the knock sensors and the idle control valve connector, when it goes back together numerous times CPS gets swapped and thus there isnt any spark

fraggle

Big thanks for the tips!! At this point I don't even have a stand (!!). My source fell through. At this point I plan on building a rack out of 4x4's to set the motor on. Once I pull the intake and heads off, I should have a stand available so I can turn the thing over and pull the pan.

What is the consensus on the heads? I heard that I should, at minimum, have them skimmed before reinstall, even if they look "pretty good".

Mrmerlin

First you need to find out if the heads have been cut there, is a measurement spec in the WSM . If they have then it doesnt leave much room for cutting and then the head gasket is a special order versuion thats a bit thicker so the water bridge will connect and you wont have valve to piston problems

fraggle

Ok intake is off. I have the utmost respect for thoise of you who did this with motor in the car. Being and to reach everything and see everything was pretty simple with the motor out!

Getting it back together is going to be exciting, for sure. There's a lot of vacuum lines in there!

Rob Roy

Awesome job. I have done nothing for the last 3 weeks - just got to unbolt the flexplate and lift her out but I have had zero time to work on her. Hopefully will catch up to you over the next couple of days!

Keep us posted!

fraggle

I've really tried to stay on top of things. We are working a 4day work week - burning vacation time to make up for the missing day - due to market conditions (everyone who reads this please go buy more memory for their computer!!!)

So right now I've got time. However, we just took a 5% pay cut, too. Now the question will be: Will I run out of time or money first?

fraggle

I was hoping (in a dream, I suppose) I could just pull the heads would removing the cams. That would have been much too simple.

AFter a bit of research, I've come across this:
http://www.928oc.org/928oc_michigan/tbelt10.html (thanks big Dave! this write up I am sure will keep more than just my shark back on the road!!)

... and this link for a home-bodged 9226.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...tructions.html

and more more details
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ial-tools.html

Looks like I'll need a trip to home depo tomorrow for some raw materials.

I'd like to throw in these:


http://www.plumbersurplus.com/Prod/D...59533/Cat/1045

Works awesome for turning the cams by hand against spring pressure when you don't have the covers off - say, for aligning things for a t-belt install. Just wrap it around the cam gear.

And this:



Perfect for making alignment marks or drawing on metal parts. You can get a real fine tip so it is easy!

M. Requin

Looks like your project is moving apace! Let me know if you get stuck with head or crankshaft fasteners, if my sched fits I could bring up my torque multiplier to remove them. That would give me a chance to eyeball a 928 engine compartment sans engine... In any case keep up the good work!

Mrmerlin

turning the cams is easy if the rotors are removed then you need a 30mm wrench to fit the nut looking thing under the bolt (dont turn the cams with the bolt)

fraggle

In the past I've used the strap wrenches when installing timing belts to help hold things together and line up teeth.

I'm off to home depot to build a 9226!

fraggle

All four cams are out. Homebrew special 9226 tool worked great.

Interesting to note: the three small bolts that go in the slotted holes through both cam gears were missing. The only thing holing them on was the bolt through the middle.

Cams 'look' good, no signs of oil starvation or anything strange.

Tensioner pads on the 'wear' side looked about 120k miles old. I only have one other car I've seen them in and it had about the same mileage.

Mrmerlin

the 3 screws that are missing are one in the same they hold the rotors to the cam pulleys if you remove the rotors its a good idea to reinstall a set of holding screws so you wont lose the spider to pulley interface

fraggle

ah, that explains it. I've obviously been working on this too long today.

Next weekend: the heads come off!

Does anyone in the DC/VA area know of a good shop I can drop these off at to get checked out? I don't have the equipment to measure how flat they may or may not be, and I don't fancy sending something this heavy out somewhere if I can avoid it.